tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79988911791092191002024-03-06T09:00:02.467+01:00On Steep GroundRocks around the world. Brought to you from the south west. <a rel="me" href="https://mastodon.world/@semicontinuous">Mastodon</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-12834729863717466752024-01-12T14:13:00.029+01:002024-01-18T11:30:38.242+01:00Mini Moonboard Review
<h3><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Summary</span></h3><div style="text-align: left;"><span>A Mini Moonboard is one of the cheapest and most compact homeboard systems. Both fun and effective for those who boulder 7B or harder. Can also be worth it for those who can boulder 7A — if they add a few more good holds to the layout. A lot of climbing in a small space with the sound philosophy that no one gets strong by pulling on big holds.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What is a Mini Moonboard?</h3><div><div style="text-align: left;">We've had a Mini Moonboard in our apartment for just over three months, so I thought it would be a good time to write down my intital thoughs on the product.</div><div><br /></div><div>A mini moonboard is a scaled down version of the popular Moonboard from Moon Climbing. The Moon board was the first commercial board with holds in pre-fixed position and with pre-set problems. In the first version, all problems were set by Mr Moon himself, but now they are user submitted via the app and a group of moderators decide which problems get the stamp of 'benchmark' for each grade.</div><div><br /></div><div>These commercial uniformily ready-made or half-fabricated boards have, for various reasons, also become popular training tools in climbing gyms so I don't need to explain what they are. I guess everyone has climbed on a Moon board or possibly a Kilter board?</div><div><br /></div><div>The advantage of ready-made boards is that there are already pre-defined problems at almost every level of difficulty, so users don't have to spend time or money on setting problems themselves, and they also avoid the risk of only setting problems with moves which suits them well. Most climbers also find it difficult to set problems with hard moves, on the borderline between possible and impossible, and mostly only set problems where they can make the move within a couple of attempts. It is hard to aquire new technique without being challenged by imposed demands.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>The ready-made boards have the disadvantage that you pay more for the holds than if you would buy them in bulk from some low-cost manufacturer, as you also pay-in to a system with an app, administration of benchmarks and the community of users, product development and so on.</div><div><br /></div><div>Like on every compact board, the climbing is basic on the mini. Very much about climbing in open positions with moves between flat holds without many tricks that make the problems easier.</div></div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Price — approximate budget in 2024</h3><div>If you do the entire construction yourself and choose not to insert LEDs to light up the problems, you will probably end up with a budget of around €1,800 – 2,000 without crashpads. If you buy the whole kit with lights and pre-drilled plywood, it adds up to just shy of €4,000 with quality padding. If you want to make the wall adjustable with a motor winch, you have to add about €200-600 depending on attachement points.</div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Construction</h3><div>The Mini is one of the smallest of all readily available commercial home walls and in its original dimensions fits into most garages or living rooms. It requires only 202 cm ceiling height, 244 cm width and 170 cm depth. Those with no carpentry skills at all can buy a ready-made freestanding wall or hire a carpenter to do it for them. There are several manufacturers of free-standing walls in Europe. Building a mini moonboard to the original dimensions using the instructions on Moon Climbing's website is relatively painless for those with basic carpentry skills. You can also find several instructional videos on YouTube, and detailed descriptions with blueprints elsewhere on the internet.</div><div><br /></div><div>We decided to install the board with an adjustable angle, because we want to be able to set it less steep and use it for endurance training during high summer; this construction requires a bit of extra experience or a willingness to pester benevolent and well informed friends with many questions. I also have some kind of illusion that I will train at 50 degrees for some specific projects in the area.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzTtwyOdgqAyspSQxAXduu0rpnU0EU8EYACDq4tGJ7QgTCOuW4tBH8b1POzlwlktVw9tZt5P9AJ3pcYueIyNA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>The video indicates how the winch hidden behind the kickboard is used to change the inclination. After some thought I moved the bolt on the far right up to the roof. It will be fun to cover all the holds with putty and paint if we move out.<br /><div><br /></div><div>I also chose to make the kickboard slightly higher than the 15 cm specified, which of course makes the problems significantly easier to start if you allow yourself to place one or two feet on friction under the footholds. But if you keep both feet on the start foot holds, they are only slightly easier compared to the original dimensions. The effective inclination of a problem is the angle between the lowest placed foot and the highest handhold, not the inclination of the panel!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1poSGgfBrvzozW3Yoe6sCZlz9IGZcW2pL2jm0JDGUxbxenMFaXPHdcJYVgfvNe_e0NJdqROJWVdmOQKEhEBeGwq_7VwL1kamzLbKm179jywJfvp_gZB4XoCkauYyxw0nh_KCBxhL-5H_ueG7zS2sXBZbtdyTkD2RO8K5O9P4FsTeCHw8vJKTaDXByz-4/s4000/IMG20231020205651.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1poSGgfBrvzozW3Yoe6sCZlz9IGZcW2pL2jm0JDGUxbxenMFaXPHdcJYVgfvNe_e0NJdqROJWVdmOQKEhEBeGwq_7VwL1kamzLbKm179jywJfvp_gZB4XoCkauYyxw0nh_KCBxhL-5H_ueG7zS2sXBZbtdyTkD2RO8K5O9P4FsTeCHw8vJKTaDXByz-4/s320/IMG20231020205651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I added adjustable strut support to increase stability. The righ hand side support is also an idependent back-up<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>The reason I made a taller kickboard is that I wanted to put in an extra thick mattress so that I don't wake up the neighbour when I hit the floor. I am also getting older and no longer have any desire to hurt myself when falling to the ground. Another reason is that at 50 degrees it is difficult to crawl in to the start if the kick is too low.</div><div><br /></div><div>After having talked to other owners of the board, many say that they would have added a few cm at the base to make it less likely to dab the heels. (But don't <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0EwOfntBUq/">comment on the grade of a problem</a> unless you build up the floor to shorten the kickboard back to 15 cm!)</div><div><br /></div><div>We also had enough ceiling clerance that we could make the board 10cm higher and still get it in at a 20 degree angle, so I added half a row to the top (a row that so far only has two holds).</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHk828gMuDZw5KmY71o_KppvrHwNnEVA8zWydoct8fkeIZwJ1rmM5Mn90-9DycYMx64ffg5DH6xrfHGT_9esAnYs-7z7kiJmG6LzZi-dEG1r2VfK-PUqbqD7FDhGsWNHqMjBsxJwkT373gMAQvX8WvDk4TmHRJUpu1OPUTv14LRZtGNSho-Ljz5X3zUw/s3264/IMG20240112094026.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHk828gMuDZw5KmY71o_KppvrHwNnEVA8zWydoct8fkeIZwJ1rmM5Mn90-9DycYMx64ffg5DH6xrfHGT_9esAnYs-7z7kiJmG6LzZi-dEG1r2VfK-PUqbqD7FDhGsWNHqMjBsxJwkT373gMAQvX8WvDk4TmHRJUpu1OPUTv14LRZtGNSho-Ljz5X3zUw/s320/IMG20240112094026.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The board at 20 degrees takes very little floor space</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div>I also bought extra t-nuts for the back so that I could drill more holes to put up more holds than on the specified grid. I chose not to put in LEDs to highlight the problems. The mini board has only 120 holds and pretty soon you have learnt all the hold positions by heart.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJwFPUw4ZHVrn7B45Tn-J1EzSGZXYbnu01NZRN5UdqZQj8h8LYBNKfs565_UpAriJILRXvHQka4ryhCWzRG9GGUWqlP1caQR1SJJBhRXYOWuCx_GawZy3ETVfbxyRYr65fR54QIv8CTQBxWAfHXUOvXbAy3hoSThzEXYJ1Zf6qZstzskYzkhswOSZUWw/s3153/IMG_20231215_192154.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3153" data-original-width="2823" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJwFPUw4ZHVrn7B45Tn-J1EzSGZXYbnu01NZRN5UdqZQj8h8LYBNKfs565_UpAriJILRXvHQka4ryhCWzRG9GGUWqlP1caQR1SJJBhRXYOWuCx_GawZy3ETVfbxyRYr65fR54QIv8CTQBxWAfHXUOvXbAy3hoSThzEXYJ1Zf6qZstzskYzkhswOSZUWw/s320/IMG_20231215_192154.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Layout with extra holds</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>So far, I am very happy with the approach I took for our build.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Holds (2020 set)</h3><div>The minimoon board is almost completely devoid of jugs. It comes with three series of wooden holds: A, B and C, which are also used in the '2019 master' and '2024' configurations of the full-size moonboard. The B and C series wooden holds are by far the easiest to hold on to. These are in addition to the set of original yellow holds that are also included in all moonwall configurations except 2024. All wooden holds are secured with both a central socket head screw and a wood screw to prevent rotation.</div><div> </div><div>The configuration uses the best jugs as low undercuts and only has twelve really good holds on the wall, so almost all of the easiest problems are via these holds. The last row has only one really good hold that average boulderers can hang one-armed without feet. Most problems end up on one or two holds that are so bad that the vast majority of climbers are forced to keep their feet on the wall. One thing I dislike about most moonboard setups is that too many problems ends with a big huck for one of the jugs on the last row.</div><div><br /></div><div>The original yellow holds are slippery when they are brand new (urethane plastic) but become easier to hold when used for a while. The birch plywood holds have more friction than hardwood holds and can be climbed on from day one.</div><div><br /></div><div>Those who have a problem with thin skin should keep in mind that birch plywood holds wear out skin faster than pure wooden holds, but less than plastic holds.</div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Style of climbing</h3><div>Unlike the original moon board (at least the layouts I've tried), the problems on the mini are generally a bit more static with a higher percentage of moves done with full control. On many problems, you absolutely have to keep your feet on the wall, partly because the holds are poor and it is difficult to hold the swing, and partly because you are constantly climbing so close to the ground that a foot slipping off a foothold almost certainly brushes the crashpad.</div><div><br /></div><div>Thanks to the short kick and lack of good footholds on the first four rows, the mini board feels <i>much steeper</i> than the full-sized moonboard. The first two moves are usually done with the feet on the kick-board, where the slighly sloping standard feet require a bit of tension. The next move is often done with the foot on a very slippery wood hold or a small yellow plastic hold requiring even more tension.</div><div><br /></div><div>Of all the commercial boards I've tried, the mini is probably the one I find most fun to climb! All killer, no filler. Perfect holds and short problems, often just 2-4 brutal moves that require total concentration.</div><div><br /></div><div>My better half, on the other hand, favours the Kilter board by quite a margin. In the best of all worlds, you have a friend who has a mini you can test before buying. Or read a lot of reviews online.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyqtdmG0lNem9sZ4Xos9loJc9XvSdxG3Gyr-HzymSF3i963A2eoG-U6yzmnFQlxpSLLwEx8nr53-bsLqe6OcA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div>This video displays the typical style for the easiest set of problems. For more videos, check the instagram accounts mentioned in the section <i>Community</i> below</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Training effect: does it work?</h3><div>All boards are naturally limiting in style, and the minimoon board more than most perhaps. It is, as the name suggests, small. But if you want stronger fingers and being able to do harder moves outdoors, I think the mini is better than all the sets I tested on the full-sized moon board, and of course miles better than something like a indoor bouldering wall or the Kilter board. (I have not tested Kilter's home version, which apparently has some holds that are not jugs). The Mini is also a little more demanding than the regular moon board when it comes to body tension. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to practice really long dynamic moves on the mini board.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was never someone who responded quickly to strength training and that didn't improve with age, but I think the mini, like all boards, should provide a very quick initial training effect for those who can already climb, <i>as long as they don't get injured</i>. It is difficult to do more than one-and-a-half sessions a week with short limit boulders, at least for middle-aged amateurs (which is probably the target demographic for this type of product). This is another reason to add more holds or make the board tiltable, if it is going to be your main training apparatus for parts of the year.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Grades, grades, grades and benchmarks</h3><div>This section may make your eyes bleed and you may think I've gone mad, but there is a point to this endless discussion of grades. Namely: what level is required to make it worthwhile to invest in this home board?</div><div><br /></div><div><div>My impression is that a mini built to specification (15 cm kick and 40 degrees overhang) requires a minimum level of around 6C outdoors/ 6B on the moonboard or 6C/7A on the kilter board (@ 40 degrees) just to be able to make individual moves without dabbing on even the twenty easiest problems.</div><div><br /></div><div>Since the holds are mostly poor, a relatively high level of skill is required to climb the easiest problems. The easiest way to get from sitting on the floor to the top, using any footholds and hand holds requires about the same effort for me as doing a boulder around 6B+ outdoors, and about the same grade on a kilter board set at 40 degrees. The lowest grade that can be assigned to a problem on the accompanying app is 6A+, and there are about 40 benchmarks with a grade of 6A+. There are more problems in the app in this difficulty but there is significant overlap between the problems as they are all forced to use the restricted set of 12 good holds.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>My opinion is that it is not worthwhile to build a 40 degree mini moonboard for those who cannot boulder at least 7A outside or do the most popular 6B+ benchmarks on the 2016 set on the moonboard. Even those operating at that level should be prepared to buy a suplimentary set of better holds and put them in the big gaps left in the pre-defined grid. I think that's a better investment than buying LED lighting. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you want to set up classic circuits of 20-25 moves to train strength endurance, a considerable amount of skill is required to use the mini-moonboard without additional holds. Even the easiest problems are quite difficult to back down. It is very difficult to set 20-movement circuits that flow nicely and are easier than French 8a.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you set up a minimoon board at 25 degrees, you can probably subtract about two letter degrees in difficulty. Climbing a 7A at 25 degrees overhanging feels about as difficult as a 6B at 40 degrees to me. So setting up a mini at 25 degrees can be an alternative for those who lack the prerequisit level for a mini at 40 degrees. It also makes sense for those who are training for outdoor bouldering, as there are few areas with quality problems ≤ 7A on steep faces.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Community</h3><div>Many users of the mini emphasise the social aspect of the board and its app as one of the best things about the board. As there are fewer users compared to the Moonboard or the Kilter, it becomes more natural to exchange betas, tips on problems and so on.</div><div><br /></div><div>I am a total leech who only repeats popular benchmarks without giving anything back to the community. Though sometimes I post a brief comment that the problem is supersoft and that everyone else who has logged without demanding downgrade should be ashamed of themselves, not mentioning my tall kick and the fifteen dabs on the pad, on the appartment's white walls and on non-included holds, of course.</div><div><br /></div><div>There are a number of users who puts up tons of usefull beta on instagram. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/the.chalk.board/">@the.chalk.board</a> is tall and well organised and often uses reasonable beta. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/dolphs_minimoonboard/">@dolphs_minimoonboard</a> is tall and insanely strong. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ita_board/">@ita_board</a> is short, strong and bouncy.</div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h3></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-73078142450967923462023-05-28T22:10:00.010+02:002023-05-31T13:17:11.375+02:00Gorges de Taghia, revisited<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRM611xXTAMeNDwW4xkXTMFkURG5_oWbDsyAwo5RX2XPfh357s--H5hhFqnLbpwirHEeDI_UYQjgJrhXwodp19crCpIJa95Vf99WjUMLPhP-Diz4qdB05zQ8W3alhSKraaYcXg9CjMo1nhyMHLhiIG9lF0j5G3WsY4HsX0vGNDdi3Zu7t2_-t-ZiRzlw/s2140/taghia-5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1605" data-original-width="2140" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRM611xXTAMeNDwW4xkXTMFkURG5_oWbDsyAwo5RX2XPfh357s--H5hhFqnLbpwirHEeDI_UYQjgJrhXwodp19crCpIJa95Vf99WjUMLPhP-Diz4qdB05zQ8W3alhSKraaYcXg9CjMo1nhyMHLhiIG9lF0j5G3WsY4HsX0vGNDdi3Zu7t2_-t-ZiRzlw/s320/taghia-5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taghia village from the top of Taoujdad</td></tr></tbody></table><p>As an early fiftieth birthday present to myself I arranged a short trip to the best mountain limestone climbing in Europe. Funny enough, this mythical place is found in Africa, but it is the only limestone climbing the Italian, the Iberians and the French can all agree upon as being possibly the best. This is because of absolutely bomber limestone on orange mountains with most impressive profiles.</p><p>Taghia was discovered as a climbing destination in the 70s, when French visitors put up routes following the most obvious features on the biggest objectives, finding traces of one earlier mystery route ascended by possibly a Polish team. In the 80s and 90s the Spanish started to develop the place, among them the Gallego brothers and Toni Arbones, and around 2000 the French found their way back in numbers, when Ravier, Thivel and later Petit and Bodet put in substantial work.</p><p>From the turn of the millennium until today there has been rapid development, and the lastest version of <a href="http://www.christian-ravier.com/topotaghia.html">Christian Ravier's guidebook</a> (2019) lists 167 long routes from 200 to 900 m around the village, and more than 70 long routes around nearby villages, as well as some 50 single pitch routes. New routes are still getting put up all the time, and soon a single volume will not be enough to cover the routes.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhg9yhUoKWDReEaUGL7dehvdQf0VTpz1_lPy-ro8SmAD0TrT7XvY_RVxxltaTeEJu8JZ2KQGXSlF_J7-O0ku9m2lzPwdpynKZquovu-XObY1zb-Ve1VC76HIyY3OyNOKtaEM8Evc9eqv8fmW-spiTNs7uDd6aMAFeDkzSex4vR1syOn_SsWffpxwzuA/s1000/coucouv%20taghia.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="1000" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGhg9yhUoKWDReEaUGL7dehvdQf0VTpz1_lPy-ro8SmAD0TrT7XvY_RVxxltaTeEJu8JZ2KQGXSlF_J7-O0ku9m2lzPwdpynKZquovu-XObY1zb-Ve1VC76HIyY3OyNOKtaEM8Evc9eqv8fmW-spiTNs7uDd6aMAFeDkzSex4vR1syOn_SsWffpxwzuA/s320/coucouv%20taghia.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.christian-ravier.com/topotaghia.html">The Guidebook</a></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Despite being in the middle of the High Atlas, Taghia can be accessed within a day from any European metropolitan area. The flight to Marrakesh is followed by about 5 hours in taxi, followed by a one hour hike with donkeys or a short shuttle with a 4x4 taxi, and the one hour time difference to CET makes it easy to leave home anywhere in Europe and climb the next day. </p><p>I assume that the newly constructed route will soon get a better surface and that city taxies can get all the way to the village. When it does, the tourism will absolutely explode as the valley really is one of the more spectacular on earth.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2qgytMjTeB3YZRDoNFVRruw5myxzPEHc-AaXs9K3ASqPH0ew6UkahDUKvD-ejy_7idjAszKtzy-3yV98LeOcNX5mj9Tb5TC-Jry_Eg_NcwQ_0bM7oR36g8jKxJyetg4xdI77TckgY57DCeSUl4VIJjFpw_C55qoM-S29b8gfO2FvW-iRtAGWGYPuhg/s2140/taghia-11.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1428" data-original-width="2140" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2qgytMjTeB3YZRDoNFVRruw5myxzPEHc-AaXs9K3ASqPH0ew6UkahDUKvD-ejy_7idjAszKtzy-3yV98LeOcNX5mj9Tb5TC-Jry_Eg_NcwQ_0bM7oR36g8jKxJyetg4xdI77TckgY57DCeSUl4VIJjFpw_C55qoM-S29b8gfO2FvW-iRtAGWGYPuhg/s320/taghia-11.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to Taghia can be used by cars with good clearance and new suspensions if driving with care </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Compared to last time we visited eight years ago, the village is clearly better off. Now all houses have electricity, the worst shacks have been demolished and better houses have replaced them, and thanks to the road way fewer villagers die in transit to hospital.</p><p>There are also more climbers, more hikers, better shops, and it seems like there is better separation between fresh and black water. (We still filtered all drinking water and put chlorine tablets in it, did not eat any fruits that was not peeled, and were served bottled water for dinner.)</p><p>The routes are a mixture of fully bolted, mostly bolted, mixed and unbolted multipitch. We did what most casual visitors do and brought just a set of quickdraws with a few alpine draws, a set of wires and a single set of cams from finger to hand. You can easily do without any removable protection for a week or two, but a minimal rack leaves more possibilities to climb long routes where some of the easy pitches don't have many bolts. Next time I will try to convince someone to join me on one of the classic crack climbs and bring a full rack.</p><p>From browsing the topos and talking to other climbers on site, I suspect that you really have to be able to climb 6b mandatory to get the most out of a week's stay. The mandatory grade is a rough estimate on how hard you have to pull between the bolts, what the generation of scandinavian climbers before me quoted as the grade they were 'solid' on. </p><p>The routes from the 70s and 80s are of course easier, but they look longer than they look amazing, and might require a few pitons? I suspect they are mostly mystery quests, something that is not everyone's cup of mint tea.</p><p>Ravier's beautiful guidebook has clear topos and is generally good, if a bit terse. It must be nice to be able to write for an audience that is thought to be competent enough to tie their own shoelaces. Most routes just have a simple line-drawing indicating the pitches, and a write-up of the name, the length, the first ascensionist details, a word on the rack required—if necessary—and a one-word description. A route is simply 'great', 'beautiful', 'disappointing' or perhaps 'serious'. The approaches are usually described as 'obvious' or in worst case 'useful to scout out beforehand'. In any case, even though the guidebook is in French, you don't need to be able to read French to use it. The drawings are clear enough.</p><p>We stayed again in the classic <a href="https://climbingtaghia.com/">Gite Taoujdad</a>, owned by Said Messaoudi. You can communicate with Said beforehand on email (in French). However, I had to relearn the evergreen lesson of never putting more than one single subject in one or two simple sentences in a mail. (You would think that a teacher would already know this...) The food in Said's gite (breakfast and dinner) was great and plentiful, and shared in the big common room with other teams of climbers, and some occasional hikers — even some Moroccan guests, in a nice international atmosphere. For those of us not speaking Berber or Arab, a modicum of French is more than useful. When we were there there were always people around to help with translation, and it seemed like it was possible to arrange with time for eating breakfast in English as well.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCk8J9pvaBJv-MdOgGlEg0xgqkEmoZPeQcqcibOpFrlsRuAwMZ0uiOvD7Lfg9XRsjT-EIHhUw-jTFGkfEKa8anmv0huw3l9NY4BhmI4urfHTGKiZN0ZBTyrTDkBJrCHeaQa_g9cMsLC-npUfdLwXDLMyNwZr_LdBeDzbHuGIbm_mKd0uRZiuvxzCIhuA/s2140/taghia-8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1428" data-original-width="2140" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCk8J9pvaBJv-MdOgGlEg0xgqkEmoZPeQcqcibOpFrlsRuAwMZ0uiOvD7Lfg9XRsjT-EIHhUw-jTFGkfEKa8anmv0huw3l9NY4BhmI4urfHTGKiZN0ZBTyrTDkBJrCHeaQa_g9cMsLC-npUfdLwXDLMyNwZr_LdBeDzbHuGIbm_mKd0uRZiuvxzCIhuA/s320/taghia-8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Timrazine, Taoujdad and Oujdad in the morning after snowfall</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The weather during our stay was unstable and unseasonably cold, with snow all the way down in the village (1900 masl). Some of the snow stayed on the surrounding peaks for a couple of days. As such we climbed perhaps one or two fewer routes less than I'd have liked. Such is life in the mountains.</p><p>Some notes on the routes we did this time: (for more, check out my post on <a href="http://steepground.blogspot.com/2016/04/taghia-valley-marocko-various-routes.html">Taghia from our visit in September 2015</a>).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNUuGHbCTSiPRafBNCKTcHu7QE3fEGCV5fYlOQp1OwtPVrGZdULJoKLXvJBd7dwZK20NGc2k_ujoN9WarEuTsEQ9YDj9haBSpXhHNW5MVHARixMAqJjYUyJUFdUQZLSGU7fLzNiQpPAqTmxd3uFs_2Pc3FRWLCUX6zSpzmN0FPQ__csB6OFOQTIomPA/s2140/taghia-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2140" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNUuGHbCTSiPRafBNCKTcHu7QE3fEGCV5fYlOQp1OwtPVrGZdULJoKLXvJBd7dwZK20NGc2k_ujoN9WarEuTsEQ9YDj9haBSpXhHNW5MVHARixMAqJjYUyJUFdUQZLSGU7fLzNiQpPAqTmxd3uFs_2Pc3FRWLCUX6zSpzmN0FPQ__csB6OFOQTIomPA/s320/taghia-1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex and Mikael on À boire...<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b><span style="color: #134f5c; font-family: arial;">Champion de Maroc</span></b>, 7a+ (Champion of Morocco), ED- 310 m.</p><p>Great route on impeccable rock. Listed in the new edition of Parois de Légende. Just next to <i>Au nom de la réforme</i> and <i>À boire ou j'tue l'chie</i>n. Pitch 1-5 are fully bolted. To get to the top, bring some gear (either a set of wires or 2-3 friends, e.g. camalot #0.4, #0.5 and #0.75).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6GYtnSvC_Ld6ySb_OkBuZogaRhOnZmu2SBBSvY9AUO3PjV-tHQDPHOkuT6H0IPnQ4wbVUS54RjXxA2JL_6aWk5X2E-AzdeXJq63e5D9lHprxkYKVdFeiW9OSN7ip0cXp9EXSPR9UqlBW9rGgwgGZYlxPqTO5apCDlJKF1yD1XlKpFUVkESG9ExBOyw/s2140/taghia-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2140" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6GYtnSvC_Ld6ySb_OkBuZogaRhOnZmu2SBBSvY9AUO3PjV-tHQDPHOkuT6H0IPnQ4wbVUS54RjXxA2JL_6aWk5X2E-AzdeXJq63e5D9lHprxkYKVdFeiW9OSN7ip0cXp9EXSPR9UqlBW9rGgwgGZYlxPqTO5apCDlJKF1yD1XlKpFUVkESG9ExBOyw/s320/taghia-2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on pitch two of Champion de Maroc</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>P1 7a/+ 30m We scrambled up to the first bolt (3+ friction) and belayed from there, making the pitch closer to 30 than 50 m. The crux is probably a bit morpho. Great climbing.<br />P2 7a 45m Start up an excellent dihedral to more technical face climbing. Amazing pitch.<br />P3 6c 45m. More good climbing leads to a comfortable ledge.<br />P4 5c 40m. Still vertical, but now with jugs. Good fun.<br />P5 5c/6a 40m. More of the same. Pure sport climbers can rap off after this pitch. We are tainted by traditions and want to go to the top of mountains, so we continued.<br />P6-7 110m 4+? One bolt. Some gear.</p><p>Descent: Walk down the south face, following cairns to find a rap station that takes you down to a saddle. The rap is 35m, but can be done on a 60m rope if you are willing to downclimb a few metres of 4+.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Some of the young men from the village were solicited by the climbing clubs of Casablanca and Rabat for the national championships. The route is dedicated to the local climber Mohamed Amil.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: #073763; font-family: arial;"><b>Les Rivières Pourpres</b></span>, 7b+ (Crimson rivers), ED+, 600 m.</p><p>13 draws (11 draws max on the pitches, iirc)</p><p>World heritage route. Long and sustained for the first eleven pitches. The 13th pitch is not to be discounted as well. Hauling is easy on P1-11, and might also be possible on P13 (we did not test this theory)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKyn12SSnH47sizBkCXKpd374obE7JalieJ02O_NVJ16Hya8BoEMNMQeFQYDwMUchabUlzV4ho4PCQTosZrALMXutT8nKY0ywl-ECl_hJu9aF55fqheP2db7QX_wUSgg0ZUBZNCN5AbwWxW8DSjJh7AfZFFYwWV3aqtUi_qseNb7VuU4yu7xCu7Tyww/s2140/taghia-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2140" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKyn12SSnH47sizBkCXKpd374obE7JalieJ02O_NVJ16Hya8BoEMNMQeFQYDwMUchabUlzV4ho4PCQTosZrALMXutT8nKY0ywl-ECl_hJu9aF55fqheP2db7QX_wUSgg0ZUBZNCN5AbwWxW8DSjJh7AfZFFYwWV3aqtUi_qseNb7VuU4yu7xCu7Tyww/s320/taghia-3.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex on one of the lower pitches of Les Rivières Pourpres</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Approach</b>: Enter the canyon below the north face by an expo 4b move on a polished slab some 10-15 m above the riverbed. Around the corner there are two bolts hopefully equipped with a bit of a rope to use as a handrail. Traverse on the right side of the canyon then cross the river on a juniper tree, then easy climbing to a bolt where an exposed traverse (3c) left leads to easier hiking. A huge boulder blocks the passage, if the water is low you can chimney up a hole on its right side (push the haulbag in front of you), head lamp not necessary. When the river is high, climb the first pitch of Canyon Apache (6a) on the left side of the boulder and rap down above the boulder. After the boulder walk up another fifty metre until a marked path leads up the ledges to the base of the routes. "RP" written at the base of the climb. <i>1 hour</i>.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1RqR594O5pSBeeMAHwy3C9X0nxhLuuAQaxp7GRbTrBZCYkjZRoKcPKkUgeI9t8b3f2IDGjJaUQghl7HhnE_-GFN50qoyKqVyNENpJqDOM1uNXjf6_HIV4v2bA9VelzlPTlfVBMmeHPh3-92KQZ-iUQkzORkkbRnHBFrhU0ZCvPXRmcF0xPQGJRK37w/s2140/taghia-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2140" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1RqR594O5pSBeeMAHwy3C9X0nxhLuuAQaxp7GRbTrBZCYkjZRoKcPKkUgeI9t8b3f2IDGjJaUQghl7HhnE_-GFN50qoyKqVyNENpJqDOM1uNXjf6_HIV4v2bA9VelzlPTlfVBMmeHPh3-92KQZ-iUQkzORkkbRnHBFrhU0ZCvPXRmcF0xPQGJRK37w/s320/taghia-4.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mikael following pitch nine of Rivières Poupres</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The approach is regularly swarmed by local kids in flip-flops, so suck it up buttercup.</p><p>P1 6c 30m A rough awakening. Challenging and a bit runout. Not that great, imho.<br />P2 6c 30m More of the same. Some fairly obligatory passages on steep rock.<br />P3 7a 40m Good pitch. Fairly sustained<br />P4 7b 25m Steep. I cannot remember a single thing about this pitch.<br />P5 6c 25m A bit zig-zag.<br />P6 7a 40m Face climbing to easier terrain (6b)<br />P7 7a 40m. Technical face climbing then run-out but easier near the belay.<br />P8 7b 40m. Brilliant pitch. More technical face climbing then sustained climbing through an overhang to a final bit of tricky run-out face climbing. <br />P9. 7a+ 40m. Great run-out face climbing until the bolter's courage ran out and a traversing A0-style ladder leads to the belay.<br />P10 7a+ 45m. A steep well protected boulder problem leads to easier climbing.<br />P11 7b+ 40m. Brilliant steep sustained well bolted climbing to a protected but committing crux. The belay is to the left just below the huge ledge.<br />P12 5a 55m. Walk across the big ledge, diagonally up a ramp left, then back right past a single bolt to a belay in a horisontal crack.<br />P13 6b+ 50m. Pretty sparsely bolted crack climbing leads to more complex but still steep terrain. (A friend or two would be nice to have, but who would drag that up this route?)<br />P14 5a 50m. Some bolts function as cairns to lead the way.<br />P15 5a 50-60m. Two-three bolts of climbing leads to scrambling. Possible to make a belay around natural features at any point towards the top.</p><p>Descent as for Champion de Maroc</p><p><i>Les Rivières Pourpres</i> is a middling crime drama set in the alps. The movie version stars Jean Reno.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcq23h1JsLuoRHrx_Eeq44vlCzy99jXxoMfuWYWdjM09kwNmjXFwoRh4jJO2QuVWTpSPn-FRSlVBxoog4OmQRUJXBb0dejZiywDXcV7W30_6HBZUwYa0LCBcu_ZdlxX7ZwUXNzL0IxjbGPFBRC7Co33RC6Jl9h4NHNsQ6xelQROylxsVDrgpEdcIFVA/s2140/taghia-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1605" data-original-width="2140" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcq23h1JsLuoRHrx_Eeq44vlCzy99jXxoMfuWYWdjM09kwNmjXFwoRh4jJO2QuVWTpSPn-FRSlVBxoog4OmQRUJXBb0dejZiywDXcV7W30_6HBZUwYa0LCBcu_ZdlxX7ZwUXNzL0IxjbGPFBRC7Co33RC6Jl9h4NHNsQ6xelQROylxsVDrgpEdcIFVA/s320/taghia-6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping out</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="color: #073763; font-family: arial;">Soleil de pluie</span></b>, 6c+ (6b+) ED-, 250 m.</p><p>15 draws. </p><p>Brand new route on<i> Parois de Sources</i>. We found this route excellent, but the grade given by the first ascensionist felt a bit off, maybe due to the pristine new rock and no trace of magnesium on the holds. Extraordinary generously bolted. Hauling OK.</p><p>P1. 6b+ 35m Start from the newly constructed bridge. Climb with some difficulties past a bulge to a belay. Felt more like 6c, but was not exactly dry and clean.<br />P2. 6a+ 30m a nice vertical wall leads past a steep ledge to two belays on a steep face. We took the lower belay.<br />P3. 6c+ 45m. Start up the dihedral and quickly leave it rightwards and up on a brilliant journey. Felt hard for me. <br />P4. 6c+ 45m. Up the arete and then technical of-vertical face climbing, just to the right of another new route, which it joins at the belay.<br />P5. 6c 40m. Straight up to a ledge where there is an optional belay where it crosses Rêve d'Aicha. Nice slab climbing leads to a belay on the big ledge system below the fifth pitch of Rêve d'Aicha.<br />P6. 6a+ 35m. Same as Rêve d'Aicha<br />P7. 3c 20m. Past a single bolt then up left to a bolted belay, or just make belay wherever. Keep scrambling to the top (grade 2, cairns).</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxQgLnvtbfm1MOeOvZHrdlP5kdZQpnivn_U82fMtfocv9HO-USLFEdY2NiKnpzSlgfy37qN3st91Gf2z1sAqVN1PlOLRD1-_0HSSNj5BrW3EjP3gi5MAxelQEy-5mzglWit3ZwdSCXju-ZS8ot9NbWUKvhpDsVB3R0xbH-oVYO-7mnZNIbBhFlaW02Q/s2140/taghia-7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="963" data-original-width="2140" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxQgLnvtbfm1MOeOvZHrdlP5kdZQpnivn_U82fMtfocv9HO-USLFEdY2NiKnpzSlgfy37qN3st91Gf2z1sAqVN1PlOLRD1-_0HSSNj5BrW3EjP3gi5MAxelQEy-5mzglWit3ZwdSCXju-ZS8ot9NbWUKvhpDsVB3R0xbH-oVYO-7mnZNIbBhFlaW02Q/w400-h180/taghia-7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch five of Soleil de pluie</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><i>Soleil de pluie</i> (Sunshower) is a French variety song from the early 70s.</p><p><b><span style="color: #073763; font-family: arial;">Baraka</span></b>, 7b (6b), ED-, 650m</p><p>13 draws of which three 60 cm. Three-four friends e.g. camalot #0.4 to #1 for the top pitches. 50 m ropes, light twins would be perfect. We climbed light with shoes and water clipped to the harness and candy in the pockets. Low mandatory grade, but loads of climbing. Long day. Tooks us seven hours to climb, but thanks to rain and snow the days before the route was washed clean of chalk, might be quicker if you can follow some traces of others. The first half had a few wet holds, but thanks to the abrasiveness of the rock it was totally fine to climb in these conditions.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghaO8sElNeJ2nf7JDvyGGLyu_FJIS7_Vb-0XsmMQdfTI2vLr7Ba9SeZzjFXVjskufZBgxW9JVmov5h9mRVyvAHuO5reNP0dh2GQ-_XQvFvwesYDHQCwtiOaynjd6Lvlqhh7b26vyVY4xjMNUNjJlAJbJOaFAXAZH9h1ouBItm4IBGb5kVsklkDSfdfeQ/s2140/taghia-9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2140" data-original-width="1605" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghaO8sElNeJ2nf7JDvyGGLyu_FJIS7_Vb-0XsmMQdfTI2vLr7Ba9SeZzjFXVjskufZBgxW9JVmov5h9mRVyvAHuO5reNP0dh2GQ-_XQvFvwesYDHQCwtiOaynjd6Lvlqhh7b26vyVY4xjMNUNjJlAJbJOaFAXAZH9h1ouBItm4IBGb5kVsklkDSfdfeQ/s320/taghia-9.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia starting up pitch six of <i>Baraka</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Approach</b>: From Taghia village, at Gîte d'etape Taoujdad cross the river and take the path leading straight up to Oujdad on the left side of a small hill. The path is well marked and leads to the ledges that crosses the west face of Oujdad. The route starts after the bridge, at the lowest point of the pillar. The name is written near the base. <i>1 hour</i>.</p><p>P1 6b+ 40m 8 bolts. The start is a bit expo (6a) and I put in a green camalot between the first and second bolt. There is a surprisingly hard section near the belay, bolted for A0. Climb well to the left of the bolts on top.<br />P2 6b 45m 8 bolts. Mostly slabs.<br />P3 6b+ 50m 13 bolts. Great slab climbing, watch out for rope drag.<br />P4 7b 20m 10 bolts. Vertical climbing, bolted for A0 on the hard part. About five-six bolts worth of tricky sustained climbing on slopers with a few crimps.<br />P5 6b+ 50m 12 bolts. Quite a bit back and forth, use your shoulder-length slings!<br />P6 6c 40m 11 bolts. Amazing technical face climbing that zig-zags around the bolts. This pitch marks the end of the technical difficulties.<br />P7 6a+ 50m 8 bolts. The first part of the pitch is harder and has more protection, the second part is fairly easy (5b?) and a bit run-out.<br />P8 5c 40m 6 bolts. Possible to put in some extra gear if needed.<br />P9 5c/6a 40m 5 bolts.<br />P10 5b 40m 3 bolts. Stick to the dihedral, the bolts you see on the right is on Barracuda. Fairly easy climbing between the bolts, possible to add some gear.<br />P11 6a 35m 5 bolts. A few pulls to leave the belay, then easy hiking on the ridge (3) to the belay.<br />P12 4a 30m 1 bolt. Hike across the ledge and then up past a bolt to the belay.<br />P13 6a 35m 4 bolts. Straight up from the belay (solid friend) to a bolt, then join the big dihedral where bolts and solid gear lead to the belay back left.<br />P14 6a+ 40m 5 bolts. Follow the dihedral on a mixture of bolts and decent friends, and possibly a few mid-sized wires if you are tired by this point. Then slightly left up to the belay.<br />P15 6b 55m 7 bolts. Straight up (6a) to a well bolted traverse out left and do two pulls (6b) past a bolt to the top. Scramble 30 m. on ledges (2c). Two bolts mark the way to a bolted belay.</p><p>Untie and walk up ledges (1c/2a) for 100m to the top of Oujdad.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZEpxYRTW_YbrG6WBgXpod-HBzgGs_VAj_-cGquhPG6Si-mzHOyIVBDFT3PiI0Mki7gD-v1qZAh1Yo2__6fhMC88QNHAx9xpw0nS9a53EZc-HUiqJa2FwucMd2SQTU6KfNQ3gl_Ld0Wd-SmNlgNeqcdEr08ByPGN3H-JyjgXC-KggYC3f6XwQN5ga1w/s2140/taghia-10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="963" data-original-width="2140" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZEpxYRTW_YbrG6WBgXpod-HBzgGs_VAj_-cGquhPG6Si-mzHOyIVBDFT3PiI0Mki7gD-v1qZAh1Yo2__6fhMC88QNHAx9xpw0nS9a53EZc-HUiqJa2FwucMd2SQTU6KfNQ3gl_Ld0Wd-SmNlgNeqcdEr08ByPGN3H-JyjgXC-KggYC3f6XwQN5ga1w/w640-h288/taghia-10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On pitch six of Baraka</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Descent</b>: From the top, descend a well-marked path that meanders on ledges 10-60 m. skier's left of the south-east ridge, with views of Taoujdad. Pass some gendarms and then descend about 100m of altitude until the path branches. The right branch leads to some sheep pasture on a big ledge were cairns and traces leads to a rappel station hidden in a cave behind a dead calcified juniper. The left branch also has cairns and leads to a down-climb (grade 3, unprotected). After the rappel follow a vague path traversing the slope towards south until hitting a well marked path that leads via a big loop south to the refuge at the base of Oujdad. The refuge is manned during the season. From the refuge, the path leads back to the base of the route. 2h30 min to the base of the route.</p><p><i>Baraka</i> is a Moroccan brand of jam. It is apparently also the benediction of The Lord in Islam and Judaism alike. </p><p><b>Classic routes</b>. I have not done more than half of these, but they are all of good repute and often repeated:</p><p>La rêve d'Aicha, TD, 6a+ (6a), 220m. Timrazine (Parois de Sources).<br />Belle et Bebère, TD+, 6b+ (6a+) 300m. Timrazine (Parois de Sources).<br />Allumeur du rêve Berbère TD+ 6b+ (6a+) 320m. Timrazine.<br />Au nom de la Reform, TD+ 6c (6b). Taoujdad. A set of wires if going to the top, otherwise rap the route from top of pitch 7.<br />À boire ou je tué le chien TD+ 6c (6b+). Taoujdad. A set of wires for the first pitch.<br />Canyon Apache ED- 6c (6b) 355m. Timrazine<br />Haben oder Sein TD+ 6b+ (6b risky) 240 m. Parois de la Cascade.<br />Widi Azry, ED- 7a (6c risky) 500 m. Taoujdad.<br />Baraka ED- 7b (6b+ A0) 685 m. Oujdad.<br />Zebda ED+ 7b+ (6c) 260 m. Timrazine (Parois de Sources).<br />Suserro Berbere ED+ 7b+ (6c) 280 m. Timrazine (Parois de Sources).<br />Fat Guides ED+ 7b+ (6c) 280 m. Timrazine (Parois de Sources).<br />Shucran ED4 7c (7a) 380 m. Oujdad.<br />Les Rivieres Poupres ED+ 7b+ (6c+) 600 m. Taoujdad.<br />Fantasia ED4 7c (7a+) 600 m. Tuyat. <br />L'Axe du Mal ED4 7c+ (7a+) 550 m. Tadrarate.<br />Rouge Berbère (Astroman of Africa) ED+ 7b 560 m. Tadrarate. Full mountain rack up to camalot #5 <br />Babel ED+ 7c+ (7a+ risky) 800 m. Tuyat.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-63879974286864613222022-06-20T14:21:00.002+02:002022-06-20T14:55:49.052+02:00Spigolo, Petit Aiguille d'Ansabère<p>The extreme warm weather of May and June has been relentless, and for Friday, forty degrees was forecasted for Toulouse with even warmer temperatures further west. Thus me and Alex went to the High Pyrenees for some colder temps, even though the meteorologists talked about temperatures of above 30 even above the tree line. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFeb3Und3a6AXBjI5gqwoob52VYoJjL2WaS0Z1lq5ce8d9bl10kmpVRjRXOHnWFnnnfo3F-vP7yT-wzb9iLvs_q3j5BojscYBPLMwZJFoF-TCyNAG6-YzHzIvPQYs6JNB0acY8yfxu4P030yy6PCBk99vyQjOzTpIPoqP6eUghg8xX5gk1dz1vKeV8w/s2048/Spigolo4.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFeb3Und3a6AXBjI5gqwoob52VYoJjL2WaS0Z1lq5ce8d9bl10kmpVRjRXOHnWFnnnfo3F-vP7yT-wzb9iLvs_q3j5BojscYBPLMwZJFoF-TCyNAG6-YzHzIvPQYs6JNB0acY8yfxu4P030yy6PCBk99vyQjOzTpIPoqP6eUghg8xX5gk1dz1vKeV8w/s320/Spigolo4.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching in early morning. Already well above 20 degrees at 1800 masl!</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBMbwKH2lPjlFQ1kZZtqi8SVww2y7KNd-3zpiyq3xPTEmWiSK2Wpf2pq_JvcDGGQUO2JW40vCon8w7K12guHfYbaL3sl_vcZV8KUz2805bdMsixK8A4_U-2q9T1RgeWeZ9mN5B8IAsrxmJ2J-lsxe7i46-RrnXTvxr8tP_02Li5NuF1fJekILQB5WTtg/s2048/Spigolo3.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBMbwKH2lPjlFQ1kZZtqi8SVww2y7KNd-3zpiyq3xPTEmWiSK2Wpf2pq_JvcDGGQUO2JW40vCon8w7K12guHfYbaL3sl_vcZV8KUz2805bdMsixK8A4_U-2q9T1RgeWeZ9mN5B8IAsrxmJ2J-lsxe7i46-RrnXTvxr8tP_02Li5NuF1fJekILQB5WTtg/s320/Spigolo3.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Petit Aiguille d'Ansabère. Spigolo is the obvious spur on the left</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>One of the classics in the Pyrenees that J. has done before we met is <i>Spigolo</i> on the impressive pillar Petit Aiguille d'Ansabère, as such I was happy to find someone else to climb it with.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfmM2W2NTFTLLUhdtbG5lkKT7pA50HoEbZsGoCyaTNy4SNBEJ4mw0dNSbHiyiNkCPaKgf_f2SSduu0pnh8C4ZfkCl_K-HiSfh3n_9i924J28AVeOhDvpO4XxagJyHALFK7ENTxDhO_wW8R5wS_yAYXKTic2tR0UY2yfntr2sh_OHpNV0d0Ta1SoIEfw/s4032/spigolo-more%20-%202.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfmM2W2NTFTLLUhdtbG5lkKT7pA50HoEbZsGoCyaTNy4SNBEJ4mw0dNSbHiyiNkCPaKgf_f2SSduu0pnh8C4ZfkCl_K-HiSfh3n_9i924J28AVeOhDvpO4XxagJyHALFK7ENTxDhO_wW8R5wS_yAYXKTic2tR0UY2yfntr2sh_OHpNV0d0Ta1SoIEfw/s320/spigolo-more%20-%202.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L2 5c R. Not perfect rock, some funky gear</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Spigolo is Italian for ‘spur’, and I guess that the first ascensionist, <a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Despiau">Raymond Despiau</a>, was inspired by the similarities in look to the spurs of the Dolomites. Something else that he was clearly inspired by was the alpine methods to murder the impossible by bolting aid-ladders whenever the rock got too blank for their free-climbing abilities. Amazingly enough lots of the rivets put in place in 1967 are still there and are still used for direct aid by most parties on the route. Some of the pitons used for protection also likely dates from the late 60s, by the look of them.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOWygqsrCeV9dqaqS6eHeZbx4ju7V-D3xv31Rkcm2CvYC0KwoKOn7k0GSKAer4iM3XDw6jcy0BNSWDH5vqL4TPGZzJfjScTRmjC89UX3F2alox3xAJhNuzh_Cz67z1L2LnE6M8gZ_y5_YltLMWHDFJRgq5izgD6XBk1WG4opS95l4pvQYT7l6i8xlpw/s4000/Spigolo5.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOWygqsrCeV9dqaqS6eHeZbx4ju7V-D3xv31Rkcm2CvYC0KwoKOn7k0GSKAer4iM3XDw6jcy0BNSWDH5vqL4TPGZzJfjScTRmjC89UX3F2alox3xAJhNuzh_Cz67z1L2LnE6M8gZ_y5_YltLMWHDFJRgq5izgD6XBk1WG4opS95l4pvQYT7l6i8xlpw/s320/Spigolo5.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L3 6c. Three pitons according to the topo. One of them is still there.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The route was freed by Serge Casteran in 1984, at 7a and 7b for the two hardest pitches. Mr. Casteran was— and still is to this day—a complete master of free climbing, but I strongly suspect that there are more than one hold missing from that ascent thirty years ago. To be fair, it was warm on the wall, with temperatures well above 25 degrees, but neither me nor Alex freed L5 or L6 — neither on lead nor following. I also got really tired from trying to link L6 were I had a hang on the rope somewhere in the middle. Normally, both of us should be OK on vertical 7bs... </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwocSM9aRGWGNVoByHJ3Bwv8x6tzi6x8_11WmP5YXnskZcedFD6wlC6-KbvLJo2JcjWajIjh6Q0qPnPGJ_7b_Og8HHgeLq2px4lF-nQ_rtYI3LhZTs02kSQvqzMfUck-K7WhQYIVRYJ6a9ipgRk3evfAkG_vYL6urwtDfJuuuDI9klW3w9BocFv-RbaA/s4000/Spigolo6.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwocSM9aRGWGNVoByHJ3Bwv8x6tzi6x8_11WmP5YXnskZcedFD6wlC6-KbvLJo2JcjWajIjh6Q0qPnPGJ_7b_Og8HHgeLq2px4lF-nQ_rtYI3LhZTs02kSQvqzMfUck-K7WhQYIVRYJ6a9ipgRk3evfAkG_vYL6urwtDfJuuuDI9klW3w9BocFv-RbaA/s320/Spigolo6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L5, 7a+. Or so. Bolts everywhere for the convenience of the A0 climber</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Nowadays there are all type of fixed equipment on the route. Some old rivets from the 60s, 8 mm expansion bolts which look like they are from the early 80s, 10 mm and even 12 mm bolts from more recent times, and lots of pitons of various type and age — there is even an old wooden piton threaded with a fairly new sling!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEPv91MjxMb33pogarKOkPFgrAU7CuVydhA1psjX1jNEWIojuahTfkvWVfwZyBS0rNxLvmTuxjT41VBx_BPCaP_rylMO5z-rBCgPAHilexNtY2iPBSKl1eY_DtwqVBKPlDkqawZnq7XJqg7a3AIIxCQ_O4qLaObDD4OCz8_9sQai3CKZwk5YFavpbhg/s4000/spigolo9.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEPv91MjxMb33pogarKOkPFgrAU7CuVydhA1psjX1jNEWIojuahTfkvWVfwZyBS0rNxLvmTuxjT41VBx_BPCaP_rylMO5z-rBCgPAHilexNtY2iPBSKl1eY_DtwqVBKPlDkqawZnq7XJqg7a3AIIxCQ_O4qLaObDD4OCz8_9sQai3CKZwk5YFavpbhg/s320/spigolo9.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L9 6a+. The rock starts to be good!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqm6EOQmBI2DujVxOuvRNn_Mmo-nIzZWThQZ6xDlrDizSJ_LEM7k03cvCtAE3081Wq185doSKN9y8QQpw584vYM60kmZy_abUObfzEsNdrZZNsEF8tHAWv-DzfKqd7Bn9Q6QCERl-lNur3Mx54m7pWsOBOeF2AW6nSkFGPDGv0RgLa6y1SsagrUdCvYQ/s4000/spigolo10.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqm6EOQmBI2DujVxOuvRNn_Mmo-nIzZWThQZ6xDlrDizSJ_LEM7k03cvCtAE3081Wq185doSKN9y8QQpw584vYM60kmZy_abUObfzEsNdrZZNsEF8tHAWv-DzfKqd7Bn9Q6QCERl-lNur3Mx54m7pWsOBOeF2AW6nSkFGPDGv0RgLa6y1SsagrUdCvYQ/s320/spigolo10.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L10 6c. "Wendenstöcke-like quality rock"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Gear: a set of wires from small to medium and a set of cams from micro to camalot #1 (red). The smallest we placed was a black totem (<a href="https://www.totemmt.com/fr/produit/totem-cam/">#0.5</a> 11.7 mm at its minimum range). The red camalot was likely superfluous. Twelve draws including five 60 cm draws (perhaps more if you want to link pitches) and a double shoulder length sling, plus something for the belays. We climbed on a single 60m rope and had a haul-rope/zip line.</p><p>Hauling is fine. We climbed L1, L2 and L10 with a bag which we hauled on all other pitches; this worked well. Due to the extremely high temperatures we hauled 7 litres of water!</p><p>Approach: Walk in to the cabins of Ansabère from the parking at Pont Lamary(1 hour), then take the path leading up to the Col de Pétragème and scramble up to the base of the spur (about 1 hour more). There is drinking water at the cabins.</p><p>L0 2a 10m. Scramble up and right some 10-15m to the top of a small detached pillar and rope up and belay from a single bolt. </p><p>L1 4c 35m. Easy climbing, but pay attention to finding the most solid rock. The first bolt after some 10 m. Do not stop at the first belay (3 old bolts) but keep going another 5 m to a second belay with some slightly newer bolts. Two bolts and a few pieces of gear.</p><p>L2 5b R 55m. Hike up ledges up to a steeper pillar and find the first bolt some 5m to the right of the left edge of the pillar. Then some pitons and some questionable gear on decidedly average rock leads to a good belay on new bolts on a comfortable ledge below a short steep dihedral on the left side of the arete.</p><p>L3 6c 20m. A steep dihedral. One bolt at the start, then some micro friends and an old piton to easier climbing. Only two pieces on fixed protection on this pitch. Good semi-hanging belay on bolts.</p><p>L4 6b 25m. Some fixed protection, but mostly on gear. Belay on bolts.</p><p>L5 7a+ 18m. Well hard and bolted as an A0 ladder for aid-climbers so there are bolts everywhere but not always in the best place for a free ascent. No gear needed.</p><p>L6 7b? 20m. Very hard, see above for the bolting. Bolts a little bit further apart and there are some obligatory 6c moves if free climbing, so climbers who are in well above their head should probably bring hooks. This is might actually be the reason why this pitch felt so hard, as I can imagine that it is pretty easy to break holds with hooks as the rock is pretty friable. No gear needed.</p><p>L7 6a+ 15m. A short traverse leftwards. Three bolts. No need for any gear. Excellent rock.</p><p>L8 6b+? 35m. Runout on questionable fixed gear with very few opportunities to supplement with friends/wires. The hardest parts are well protected by brand new bolts, but I doubt the mandatory grade is below 6b+ unless you bring hooks. Excellent rock. We found this very hard for the grade.</p><p>L9 6c 30m. The original route goes out left (at 6b), the direct version goes right on really good rock. Brilliant climbing past many bolts to a finish on a traverse out right on pitons. No friends/wires.</p><p>L10 5c R 30m. Two bolts and no gear. The first bolt is some 10 m up and slightly to the right of the belay (above the bulge and well above the difficulties of the pitch). Go left around the small corner then back up right to very easy climbing on solid rock. (Note: The route <i>Borrokan Aske</i> comes up from the right, and it is possible to traverse into this (7a+) after the first bolt).</p><p>Descent: Rap from the top down the other side. First rap is 29m, second rap 28m. Then go a few meter straight out from the wall before starting to scramble down and skiers left to the saddle (very airy). Keep traversing past some cairns until you reach a red couloir with loose rock. This is where we went wrong, apparently <i>‘you arrive at the base of an easy couloir that allows you to return to the plateau behind the Petit Pic d'Ansabère, then descend the grassy slopes of the Petit Pic d'Ansabère towards the south to reach the Col de Pétragème before walking back to the Cabane d'Ansabère’</i>. (Description within quotation marks is translated <a href="http://mes.pyrenees.free.fr/aiguille%20Ansabere%20petite.htm">from here</a>.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2F004gQPQd9MERUL7X2_atRZfbqCZDwWEs_rUM2V_lJUSt_Qe4v4lzfBTziRbg7e5Woj9sZZlHnBEKB-e81dIN0AOgHf-rlZlDGTS459MaBUm4rD9l4yrPLuJtoydmq1pqfnmxUhth1GHIP8x_wdXMkL2ckaoGmQDJtwN4MF8CS6MW4nRgHC1AaUkpw/s2048/20220618_155546.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2F004gQPQd9MERUL7X2_atRZfbqCZDwWEs_rUM2V_lJUSt_Qe4v4lzfBTziRbg7e5Woj9sZZlHnBEKB-e81dIN0AOgHf-rlZlDGTS459MaBUm4rD9l4yrPLuJtoydmq1pqfnmxUhth1GHIP8x_wdXMkL2ckaoGmQDJtwN4MF8CS6MW4nRgHC1AaUkpw/s320/20220618_155546.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Across the brèche/saddle. So far so good....</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Instead of scramble up the couloir for 30 m we scrambled down this for about 250 m with some difficulties using a less than stellar improvised anchor to rappel past a snow field until it was possible to reach the scree-field below the pillar via a traverse diagonally down left on steep and loose terrain.</div><p>We walked down the scree forever until it is possible to traverse skiers right back towards the pillar. This took us around 4 hours and felt pretty serious at times.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCphEUMIm5T6-54K9GKda5gC2kTxd8mc7An1GvzYn-e8IB8QDWj4YOdijHBp0Zkh73ZR39SKoKBRihq8r_xGbeMoB8-CQLYH0dyNpW23YZvN3LSs5VKIISO60xUyWdyz2klEfOFvqNp4PjB6-wNTs5c9kjJYxL1QxFV4_JA4PfocmBmcmG5Fv6asRsww/s2048/Spigolo15.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCphEUMIm5T6-54K9GKda5gC2kTxd8mc7An1GvzYn-e8IB8QDWj4YOdijHBp0Zkh73ZR39SKoKBRihq8r_xGbeMoB8-CQLYH0dyNpW23YZvN3LSs5VKIISO60xUyWdyz2klEfOFvqNp4PjB6-wNTs5c9kjJYxL1QxFV4_JA4PfocmBmcmG5Fv6asRsww/s320/Spigolo15.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheep herding at altitude with Petit Aiguille d'Ansabère in the background</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-32445303612479853962022-05-18T20:24:00.018+02:002022-06-21T11:37:35.503+02:00RACS, Ordesa<p>As it has been quite warm the last week I wanted to escape the heat and head up to the mountains. I already had a date for about doing RACS in the Ordesa valley in late May, but my prospective partner had to bow out because of a family visit and I was left without a partner. Luckily I randomly ran into a German climber who lives in Norway at the crag who was also keen on doing a longer route. By pooling gear we managed to get a full rack of sorts together and promptly set off for <i>Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park.</i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdxhFCRZADX7rDOvfyYhssA-mZSDKHV-oR2KT5LXN0XT5lzWoE14pH8BJLuoQfQQZHK_ZEfb5sJFzGm6bTNQ2Gg8ctGtOWBV1x6SIPT_2r3X4wPyn2kmS73DhcsYlHY6usjOlIIWh5D5sPeohk3e2x1KswnnUePdV1e8mAfWKWjDztL3z32IPk2fqow/s4000/RACS-ORDESA-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdxhFCRZADX7rDOvfyYhssA-mZSDKHV-oR2KT5LXN0XT5lzWoE14pH8BJLuoQfQQZHK_ZEfb5sJFzGm6bTNQ2Gg8ctGtOWBV1x6SIPT_2r3X4wPyn2kmS73DhcsYlHY6usjOlIIWh5D5sPeohk3e2x1KswnnUePdV1e8mAfWKWjDztL3z32IPk2fqow/s320/RACS-ORDESA-1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RACS starts some 60m to the left of the waterfall</td></tr></tbody></table><p>We slept in the car just outside the park and arrived fairly early in the morning. As I have no guidebook for the area we followed the somewhat substandard written approach description on camp-to-camp, and after 2.5 hours of hiking and searching we managed to identify the start of the route with the help of a picture I found online. Our original plan was to start around 8 am, but in the end we did not start until 10 am. Luckily the days are long in mid May and the route is fairly short for being in Ordessa, some 250 m or so.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMRYm3TzXPggBqj4dKyk2IryJjyMxYWaHMRx0plW1TP_T4hkbMo-vn_-CIlZHucHPfDsW7jDD66lNtH1sttNuwsEGPLlWIJLvCN44ayvM9eCcXIgNIXmGpQTvhetV7SQc1A0IUEZt0c_7iXUnBocL31S6T_u_nqSzLn5Yveg0tvJJLeFH2c3RlKaR6w/s4032/RACS-david-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMRYm3TzXPggBqj4dKyk2IryJjyMxYWaHMRx0plW1TP_T4hkbMo-vn_-CIlZHucHPfDsW7jDD66lNtH1sttNuwsEGPLlWIJLvCN44ayvM9eCcXIgNIXmGpQTvhetV7SQc1A0IUEZt0c_7iXUnBocL31S6T_u_nqSzLn5Yveg0tvJJLeFH2c3RlKaR6w/s320/RACS-david-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This must be it!</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The fine mist from the waterfall soaked the first few metres of scrambling and left a little bit of moisture in the cracks on the first two pitches. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVQqER7q8pjV08ds_VoLeSgM80uGHtCCThTXsS5p0m4RIiiu0tzO55mjlyTtyayVbzOe01nAXGSfOpdM8qUmIzv1YhWCaknQPu59lBg1Npa1j8olp6dc7SND4v9Uw1cjerUuHcjV-BHur5iv83BTz9WPNi5GvbJlAuRV9V6_VjSHiMDeGyUFTtNJYUw/s4000/racs1stpitch-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVQqER7q8pjV08ds_VoLeSgM80uGHtCCThTXsS5p0m4RIiiu0tzO55mjlyTtyayVbzOe01nAXGSfOpdM8qUmIzv1YhWCaknQPu59lBg1Npa1j8olp6dc7SND4v9Uw1cjerUuHcjV-BHur5iv83BTz9WPNi5GvbJlAuRV9V6_VjSHiMDeGyUFTtNJYUw/s320/racs1stpitch-1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is my pic of the first pitch, in hope that it will help someone to identify the start</td></tr></tbody></table><p>RACS was first ascended over three days in July 1984 by the legendary team of Jesús Gálvez and Miquel Angel Casals. The wall sports only intermittent lines, and most of the pitches are somewhat overhanging (something that is abundantly clear if hauling a pack). Despite the somewhat blocky and scary appearance of the wall, most of the climbing is on solid rock with good gear. There are however quite a few places where you have to do some athletic climbing between pieces of gear, so I am in full awe of the first ascensionist.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOu-AhpzKZO7Bb04tc2uUi0ZBIlj7SYvTfV2OAeFuYI-HErsO78nU965tyEdRBfQweavNer2YXWN5Qu7b8rXNbTYqh_o7vMd5EWINmItyIZ2xLodjJvw6RVnJxIZ3z5aOaExFlDFjNRF30e120vV2p8sRm7bpO-byPRTUrIVfwz0jeANbYPuYOUnwddg/s3478/RACS-david-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2609" data-original-width="3478" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOu-AhpzKZO7Bb04tc2uUi0ZBIlj7SYvTfV2OAeFuYI-HErsO78nU965tyEdRBfQweavNer2YXWN5Qu7b8rXNbTYqh_o7vMd5EWINmItyIZ2xLodjJvw6RVnJxIZ3z5aOaExFlDFjNRF30e120vV2p8sRm7bpO-byPRTUrIVfwz0jeANbYPuYOUnwddg/s320/RACS-david-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me starting up pitch one.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The valley of Ordesa is littered with steep crags formed from a peculiar sandy limestone that forms steep walls, often overhanging, of blocks pilled on each other. Thus there are few routes below 5+ or so, and as fixed gear is mostly notable by its absence and there are few obvious lines, the area has somewhat of a reputation for serious trad. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NMcqHn9ILk_ZuAxeAF67LWGrtrzWWVgJVoHI9Lm-q-3xICbXq9vNev136sO-Dqoa3usQjhUbtFCcT-I2MHZw8hiRaJAfk42JyEYHg56ZRxopiE32p1kil-s41tYdM-vR095Ojd4fKuZWtn648fmqc1mAWNpP8OsOj58HV3AM53xOmZFic4NEeDfMVA/s3432/RACS-ORDESA-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3432" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NMcqHn9ILk_ZuAxeAF67LWGrtrzWWVgJVoHI9Lm-q-3xICbXq9vNev136sO-Dqoa3usQjhUbtFCcT-I2MHZw8hiRaJAfk42JyEYHg56ZRxopiE32p1kil-s41tYdM-vR095Ojd4fKuZWtn648fmqc1mAWNpP8OsOj58HV3AM53xOmZFic4NEeDfMVA/s320/RACS-ORDESA-2.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David follows the first pitch, overprotected by a stressed out leader.</td></tr></tbody></table>I basically never climb trad any more. The last time I put in some gear was on La Demande in Verdon last year, and I doubt I have lead more than a handful of pitches requiring natural gear in the last decade. The last ten metres of the first pitch required some gear trickery mixed with some to me non-obvious moves through the roofs, and I fear that I overprotected the climbing by quite a bit. <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DTGJrVUUgzQOyp9sx5ILwOIqTaZ_CxUOokvHPOk3f0168srGMNaaD9ggnZYVBm1iL21uV6LP35Tll-CwPpY4cRFEepW5fxaFhsDI6gR0RmSqW4ZU2WzEQZ7vtQPxUxjDqOFADOGJOTzQxb_JYPJOo7j4_iAqVeA5PjnQAwh_cL-_EYIUZMHJYPR65w/s4000/RACS-ORDESA-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DTGJrVUUgzQOyp9sx5ILwOIqTaZ_CxUOokvHPOk3f0168srGMNaaD9ggnZYVBm1iL21uV6LP35Tll-CwPpY4cRFEepW5fxaFhsDI6gR0RmSqW4ZU2WzEQZ7vtQPxUxjDqOFADOGJOTzQxb_JYPJOo7j4_iAqVeA5PjnQAwh_cL-_EYIUZMHJYPR65w/s320/RACS-ORDESA-3.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David sets off for the second pitch. Note the tangled haul-line, not great.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>David followed easily and cruised the second pitch, barely placing more than a handful of pieces on the entire pitch. The first pitch was fun but the second pitch was amazing, with a bit of everything: straight in jamming, laybacking and face climbing in a constantly overhanging groove. </p><p>After having lost about half an hour on untangling the haul-line it was my turn again. I placed almost the entire rack on the third pitch — another fun pitch. I even found the time to fiddle in the offset wires David had insisted we should use in lieu of normal wires. I never did use offsets much before I became a sport climber, but they were absolute bomber in the cracks of RACS. Much recommended. (I am sure that this is not news to anyone.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKzxrVuVn1aCKKIsVvJarDQczEzELzH9MV0-eDUkrMotYZsrMnYNddhjbWY2WCXWCbi27WbV_ui9D3xRDrH05w-qpMZFc7OZfIysHr9XU2ovU-Efjnex5d5YSQMKzLdTA2MWigZ4C9RwJmF0xoTHKhsc_eKg3YU_M6mJQvf-lGhasVom_gqThT1kMAQ/s3627/RACS-ORDESA-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3627" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKzxrVuVn1aCKKIsVvJarDQczEzELzH9MV0-eDUkrMotYZsrMnYNddhjbWY2WCXWCbi27WbV_ui9D3xRDrH05w-qpMZFc7OZfIysHr9XU2ovU-Efjnex5d5YSQMKzLdTA2MWigZ4C9RwJmF0xoTHKhsc_eKg3YU_M6mJQvf-lGhasVom_gqThT1kMAQ/s320/RACS-ORDESA-4.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David stripping the last wire of pitch 3</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>The fourth pitch is the money-pitch. After stepping around the corner from the third belay the pitch goes through a steep dihedral and some pretty impressive roofs followed by steep but fairly easy climbing up to a crux on a slightly overhanging finger crack near the next belay. Again, David made short work of the pitch and placed no more gear than absolutely needed. It would have sucked to fall while seconding as the pitch is steep enough that it would have required some rope-ascending shenanigans to get back.</p><p>In various topos I found online it is implied that the fourth pitch is quite hard (7a+++ and “para los buenos”). To be honest, we did not find it that bad. The first bit through the impressive roofs has some mandatory 6c moves, I suspect, but the crux should be possible to frig if necessary?</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPNVWcbCBqY3wreUeDg9T-M6_2fJH2TUBF_IDjbueIPudMw88EqPbOUzECyqRyVKZvHLYONNXaWb7PIras3kIzlaDlixjLbZn4ETwxWrBfmYuNFDgPPu9h039_AYCQK6cFqOdGcM5dizyn3wAvRWiLNJ4jfbHgJ5hmB-Yyt9A8x5GRWs7wiu0oEhEUg/s4032/RACS-david-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSPNVWcbCBqY3wreUeDg9T-M6_2fJH2TUBF_IDjbueIPudMw88EqPbOUzECyqRyVKZvHLYONNXaWb7PIras3kIzlaDlixjLbZn4ETwxWrBfmYuNFDgPPu9h039_AYCQK6cFqOdGcM5dizyn3wAvRWiLNJ4jfbHgJ5hmB-Yyt9A8x5GRWs7wiu0oEhEUg/s320/RACS-david-3.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me seconding the crux pitch</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The fifth pitch is supposed to be 6c according to most topos, but I did not find it harder than 6a+. On the other hand, I did not find much gear either; I placed a cam about half a metre above the belay and nothing else before the crux which is a few metres above and to the right, so really rather obligatory (there is a chopped bolt just next to the crux). There is not much gear to be had after the crux either. The rock was fairly solid on the hard bit but the rock quality, which so far on the route had been mostly great, started to deteriorate toward the belay.</p><p>The fifth pitch ended on a huge ledge with a belay in three “burils” with no possibility of a back up that I could see. A <a href="https://masvertical.com/catalogo/escalada-y-via-ferrata/2606-buril-acero-zincado-8x40mm-fixe.html">buril</a> is a type of rivet that can withstand up to about 4 kN of force. Up to this point we had always been able to back up the belays, which consist of pitons or burils, with at least one piece of gear.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfws-q3oTt8Vp1Hu7-RDAZjFglVQzhSl3NzPgCfxV0ZSmBlylGKYgK4zXT_VwEBI_GCihoj8Od3lPj52kdxP-pWQp46RMmGZ7JENI7gghkY2I-Xtzzc-xP6EmrvaL0lim7Hs-xrpHW5t5zCHgbqO5u58YqRGjaLe2y9gcFoCQeRHgYbBNTNjLgjMFbA/s6560/RACS-ORDESA-5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4928" data-original-width="6560" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfws-q3oTt8Vp1Hu7-RDAZjFglVQzhSl3NzPgCfxV0ZSmBlylGKYgK4zXT_VwEBI_GCihoj8Od3lPj52kdxP-pWQp46RMmGZ7JENI7gghkY2I-Xtzzc-xP6EmrvaL0lim7Hs-xrpHW5t5zCHgbqO5u58YqRGjaLe2y9gcFoCQeRHgYbBNTNjLgjMFbA/s320/RACS-ORDESA-5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy customers at the ledge after pitch 5</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The following two pitches both consists of huge dihedrals. The first starts with some rather loose and quite adventurous climbing to reach the dihedral proper which had solid rock, good holds and is surely the steepest terrain I have done on trad at the grade (6b). The second dihedral was quite technical and had also fairly solid rock I thought.</p><p style="text-align: left;">After a last pitch of easy ledge shuffling, grass and tree climbing, we reached the plateau above the crag at half past four. A very pleasant hike down along the Cotatuero river with a via ferrata along a waterfall lead down to the forrest path down to the parking. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGj6xfKzsvU1YXN2keBdzbPW-PwdFMDv0CuQIVwcuPanVmPfAAjry17Bq9NSDDdV9L46S3sRk452-hHUs0gf_EAN6MM_ASHr1JZ3r_bTvvOSM8i8J5WbLMskrnFI5UY3yOsEKBEIzjExncp_FX88bOIoqdVM1U6IBvunb_cQS1EN3sMOrg-J88UB40w/s3264/RACS-ORDESA-9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIGj6xfKzsvU1YXN2keBdzbPW-PwdFMDv0CuQIVwcuPanVmPfAAjry17Bq9NSDDdV9L46S3sRk452-hHUs0gf_EAN6MM_ASHr1JZ3r_bTvvOSM8i8J5WbLMskrnFI5UY3yOsEKBEIzjExncp_FX88bOIoqdVM1U6IBvunb_cQS1EN3sMOrg-J88UB40w/s320/RACS-ORDESA-9.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cotatuero river</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">Overall, a great route with interesting and physical climbing on high-friction sandy limestone. I have not done any other route in the valley but I would still highly recommend this one to anyone who can. As it is found in <a href="https://www.amazon.fr/Parois-l%C3%A9gende-St%C3%A9phanie-Bodet/dp/2723483282">Parois de légende</a> (€130 second hand in good nick last I checked!), it is no great surprise that it is a super classic.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Advice for future ascensionist</b>: We hauled a bag, this is fairly painless but it is not at all necessary if you have the chance of climbing this route on a day when it is not too hot: just clip shoes and a bottle to the harness. We had a serious cluster-f*ck with the haul-line and lost about half-an-hour fixing this, and it took us just under 6.5 hours to climb the route without ever rushing. The route would take 5h to climb for a <i>seilschaft</i> of two Davids and at least 7h for two Jonases, so the 5-7 h given in PdL seems fair. </p><p style="text-align: left;">We had an eclectic collection of obsolete small cams found in the boots of respective car; green alien (or similar size) seems very useful as we placed at least one on every pitch and the blue alien came in well handy to protect a hard move a few times. The offset wires fit well in most cracks. All descriptions I found said to bring micro-wires but for what it is worth we did not place a single brass nut on the route, and nothing smaller than a #2 wallnut, ymmv. See the topo below for detailed gear advice.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Double ropes and plenty of long extenders are absolutely necessary, never hesitate to put a shoulder-length sling or longer on a piece. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Teams who wants to do this in under 7 hours should probably consist of two climbers who are able to cruise 6c cracks and 7a on jugs. While the first four pitches are the hardest, on the top four pitches it is probably useful to be able to climb somewhat loose 6b-terrain without much gear.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLIE537QxFjHJZhsFrkhxA338sBJSFuh7hua1lGiX68kKLoCkovjdAjpHpb8msez3qIw28RccmpOUI7i2kl5Y4Rwjkcjvnf1ZCk9s7-r0fZTvHVXp38mZB4NiV2A_Yn47ZgeYemGASXIsJI2W2CXGOz295bL06DzXIN4ref0u-G_bEXABI965tcVxrg/s1440/racs.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLIE537QxFjHJZhsFrkhxA338sBJSFuh7hua1lGiX68kKLoCkovjdAjpHpb8msez3qIw28RccmpOUI7i2kl5Y4Rwjkcjvnf1ZCk9s7-r0fZTvHVXp38mZB4NiV2A_Yn47ZgeYemGASXIsJI2W2CXGOz295bL06DzXIN4ref0u-G_bEXABI965tcVxrg/s320/racs.png" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My topo of RACS. <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VOE9Wh6-9kFRKEmUbVxPJoI6ycgLJbnH/view?usp=sharing">PDF version here</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b>Pitch-by-pitch description</b><br /><p style="text-align: left;">Pitch 1, 7a, 45 m. Climb a grassy ledgy choss up towards the roofs. Gear appear by the time the climbing gets interesting. Climb the roofs and traverse left to a belay in 2 burils (+ small wire in the diagonal crack above).</p><p>Pitch 2, 7a, 30 m. Step out right to the steep dihedral with a hand/fist crack in the bottom. Belay in 2 burils (+ one medium friend) a bit after the crack runs out. </p><p>Pitch 3, 6c+ 40 m. A nice steep hand crack to a fixed piton. Pass a big ledge and some loose rock to a thinner crack leading to a belay in a niche (2 pitons + medium/small friend in a roof above).</p><p>Pitch 4, 7a+ 35 m. Step out right and climb a series of impressive roofs via a crack. Easier climbing leads past two fixed pitons up to a finger-crack in a small dihedral. Belay in two pitons + some gear.</p><p>Pitch 5. 6a+ R/X 30 m. Climb up to and traverse right under a small roof until you gain the two jugs. Pull an unprotected crux (6a+) up to easy terrain, traverse diagonally left above the roof until a series of ledges leads to a big ledge and a belay on 3 burils. (The pitch is given 6c in most other topos)</p><p>Pitch 6. 6b+ (6b R) 40 m. Traverse some seven metre left before attacking some loose rock up and pass to two pitons (one stainless and good, one rusty and suspicious looking) then more left up to good rock in the huge overhanging dihedral. Make a belay on the ledge above the dihedral.</p><p>Pitch 7, 6c, 40 m. Transfer the belay to the left end of the ledge to two new bolts (new route?) below another big steep dihedral. Climb the dihedral and then continue up to obvious ledge at the end of the main difficulties.</p><p>Pitch 8, 4, 50 m. Climb diagonally up left on grassy ledges. A belay can be arranged on the plateau by slinging some boulders.</p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VOE9Wh6-9kFRKEmUbVxPJoI6ycgLJbnH/view?usp=sharing" style="text-align: center;">PDF topo here</a></p><p>Here is a picture of the wall, reprinted without permission from <a href="https://blog.os2o.com/racs-una-obra-maestra/">os2o</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQYEsG2kzgMBfYC8unkxtKRsQNvz3zdXVAUt28Cpf9OBRq7g-b0xclI0DOmWt0oDM1zqlLhf6wXFHcs7iVZmm9P07UUhi42_Y61nkbBQTpGTmEBRRPLjmbBEZ1XXDOD0c3k1bKXlETfyeZ8CyiL1_v4jPXPVFlGJaGzPEZMmAwO189lrcJwWoQ1Dc7Q/s640/RACS1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQYEsG2kzgMBfYC8unkxtKRsQNvz3zdXVAUt28Cpf9OBRq7g-b0xclI0DOmWt0oDM1zqlLhf6wXFHcs7iVZmm9P07UUhi42_Y61nkbBQTpGTmEBRRPLjmbBEZ1XXDOD0c3k1bKXlETfyeZ8CyiL1_v4jPXPVFlGJaGzPEZMmAwO189lrcJwWoQ1Dc7Q/s320/RACS1.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-42820087446987078772021-10-17T22:08:00.017+02:002021-10-18T21:05:54.645+02:00Three more recommended routes in the Verdon<p>As a companion piece to <a href="http://steepground.blogspot.com/2020/09/twenty-five-routes-worth-doing-in.html">N routes worth doing in the Verdon Gorge</a> here are three more routes worth doing in Verdon, selected from among those I have done/tried over two short trips this autumn. This text has been added to the original article, in order to make it as complete as possible, but for those who just want to read the new recommendations, here is the update:</p><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span class="Heading3Char" face=""><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR">Sector ULA</span></h2><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span lang="FR"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Au-delà du délire 7a/A0 (6c mandatory) 120-200 m</span><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Amazing climbing on good pockets. Fairly generously bolted. </span></span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">This ultra-classic route is not done often despite being featured in Parois de Légende. And as it protected by an awkward access it will likely stay free of polish for many years to come. </span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Either access via the route ULA which requires a full rack with a double set of cams or by rapping down Tranxène 5. The rap of Tranxène 5 is found about 50 m downstream from Les Marches du Temp on a small ledge one metre below the rim (Tranxène written on the rock at the rim). The rap of Tranxène is very airy.</span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span lang="FR"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRy5YYLOD-nBxGbbfBoLFeaGYER_g1xQPq8K3zXZMinfzvIt0DOJXC3JJPzftD72coqAZ8e3Jaq4Lquv7ROBd_gB05pxzpuOcfpYiI9Q75wtpddvpQs-cct9Bsvf8TBBuLG1ZaJj_2JrH/s2048/IMG20211014134146.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRy5YYLOD-nBxGbbfBoLFeaGYER_g1xQPq8K3zXZMinfzvIt0DOJXC3JJPzftD72coqAZ8e3Jaq4Lquv7ROBd_gB05pxzpuOcfpYiI9Q75wtpddvpQs-cct9Bsvf8TBBuLG1ZaJj_2JrH/w300-h400/IMG20211014134146.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The third pitch of Au-delà, counting from the traverse</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Au-delà du delire was first ascended ground up and follows an impeccably natural line up a very impressive wall, where you would be hard pressed to guess that there was room for a route of such amiable grade. The price for this is a short section of A0 on bolts (no aid-gear needed) through seven metres of friable rock. On the last pitch there used to be an arrow pointing to the right at the second bolt, now the arrow is gone and you have to figure this out by yourself. (Hint: the grade of the last pitch is likely not correct). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><i>Au-delà du délire</i> is an album by the progressive rock band <i>Ange</i> (1974)</span></div><div><br /></div></span></div><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span class="Heading3Char" face="calibri, sans-serif" style="color: #1f3763; font-size: 16px;">La demande 6a (6a mandatory) 350 m</span><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"> The first route on L'Escàles is still very much worth climbing. The route <i>requires</i> a small rack (cam 0.4 to 2, a set of medium-large wires and some slings – possible but not at all necessary doubling of the 0.4 and 0.5 cam). Every pitch has a few bolts, usually protecting the hard bits. (As such, they are sometimes placed in “illogical” places. Both me and Johan missed bolts while leading.) The route offers a veritable smorgasbord of cracks from fingers via hands to back-foot chimneys, interspersed with normal face climbing. Do not get discouraged by the enormous amount of polish on the first pitch (with its slightly disgusting layback moves on soapy holds) as seemingly a lot of people have been discouraged enough to rap off after that pitch. The rest is quite polished but never to the extend of the first pitch. In fact, due to the polish the jams are very comfortable, and despite not having climbed a route with sustained sections of jams for six years prior to this route I did not get any abrasions on the back of my hands.</span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53K9YV-Ge8Ggsh3B7a_NWp1sZ0cKNcEaVtgnXhye1KywTWVynzDk1G7043bL2pOIqyuvohR-VBWrarfzw1JoocpgxYWbUamh2k6EV9nQ2za0hybmylOm8iV7fbBP9scD8Fsv5Ky7fbqCF/s942/Photo+from+Jonas+Wiklund.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="942" data-original-width="754" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53K9YV-Ge8Ggsh3B7a_NWp1sZ0cKNcEaVtgnXhye1KywTWVynzDk1G7043bL2pOIqyuvohR-VBWrarfzw1JoocpgxYWbUamh2k6EV9nQ2za0hybmylOm8iV7fbBP9scD8Fsv5Ky7fbqCF/w320-h400/Photo+from+Jonas+Wiklund.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me exiting the chimneys and nearing the top</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">The line is impeccable and follows an ever widening crack in the middle of the highest wall. The last two pitches offer full-on chimney climbing for 80 m or so without much respite, so climbers who are not quick up 5.9+ chimneys (if you are not sure you are quick, you aint) should count on 8 hours, or even more if they are not confident putting in gear or at climbing easy but run-out terrain.</span></span></h2><div><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">As we were stuck behind a cosmically slow team from the dolomites and finally had the chance to pass them at the sixth belay I went off route at pitch seven, despite having read the very same morning the explicit warning on camp to camp to</span></span></h2><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><div><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><span face="system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, "Fira Sans", "Droid Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #363636; font-size: 14px;">Ne pas suivre la fissure au-dessus de relais (coin + sangles et piton avec maillon rapide), au contraire traverser à droite (flèche gravée dans le rocher), remonter un dièdre, franchir un surplomb par la gauche et traverser immédiatement à gauche dans la dalle pour arriver au relais</span></span></span></div></blockquote><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">guess who followed the crack above the belay... and did not see the arrow carved into the rock? In this way we got to do a nice bit of off-width followed by 30 m of very-hard-to-protect chimney climbing, completely free of polish! Including this little episode of deviation, and the finger crack version Johan did on the previous pitch to by-pass the second of the team ahead of us, we did the route in about five hours, having a lot of grade in hand on all styles the route has to offer.</span></span></h2><div><span lang="SV"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3DQR5XpGP9EaEstCjR4Ara6sCmORI2SWFcS2JneKAgf8apRnO7xk6TDQQYW5fTQzjw4eyyGhdekCNyyLR71KE7ATbK_fi4BgFEnECpoW9y2vyVegnyXkRBz78peehfoQOw411B7P4Iqj/s2048/IMG20211015170429.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3DQR5XpGP9EaEstCjR4Ara6sCmORI2SWFcS2JneKAgf8apRnO7xk6TDQQYW5fTQzjw4eyyGhdekCNyyLR71KE7ATbK_fi4BgFEnECpoW9y2vyVegnyXkRBz78peehfoQOw411B7P4Iqj/w300-h400/IMG20211015170429.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johan Hasslow leading the second to last pitch, stemming above the void</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">After having returned to Marseille, having done the first ascent of the wall of L'Escàles, one of the members of the team proposed to his beloved, hence <i>La Demande</i></span></div><div><br /></div><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV">Baume aux Pigeons<o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A very impressive wall with some aid routes and lots of free climbing potential. Not futuristic, because the future is now. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial;">Dame Cookie 8a+ (6c mandatory) 120 m + 60 m scrambling </span><b style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: Times;">Very modern route up the middle of the imposing Baume aux Pigeons. Makes up in the quality of climbing for what it perhaps lacks in line.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;">Neither I nor my climbing partner were in sufficiently good shape to have a chance to redpoint in a week-end trip from Toulouse, so we hung like dogs whenever we felt a bit tired. In this style, it is definitely a less challenging proposal than one might think even if it is quite difficult to link the pitches.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;">The first pitch is OK, and the long easy dihedral that follows is sub-par for the area, but what follows is truly great modern climbing on positive holds. Especially the third pitch (8a) and the fifth pitch (8a+) has some really high quality climbing on it. For teams punching above their weight class, I think that it would be a good idea to break the fifth pitch in two as the leader is out-of-sight and out-of-hearing on the crux bulge. At leat that is what I plan to do if I am going up this with plans of working it with for a future complete red-point ascent.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqP3Fd71oWAXIw3rzhKJe158QSlsobRtQNi_jEA3CxQK4ufBR75spaiibpb5ckTui9uJ9OSAT6PYqZFdORzUxSNas9gqzqlS0OXTaKe-KHQuIMmAK6J3Vbl3c0wIRkJmkiZMeI_F1Ycgi/s2048/IMG20210917141633.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqP3Fd71oWAXIw3rzhKJe158QSlsobRtQNi_jEA3CxQK4ufBR75spaiibpb5ckTui9uJ9OSAT6PYqZFdORzUxSNas9gqzqlS0OXTaKe-KHQuIMmAK6J3Vbl3c0wIRkJmkiZMeI_F1Ycgi/w400-h300/IMG20210917141633.jpeg" title="Alex follows the third pitch" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex follows the third pitch of Dame Cookie</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;">The last pitch has one move (protected by a bolt) just above the belay followed by 55 m of steep bush-whacking through a near vertical forest making it complicated to access the route from above. As the route has a gazzilion bolts it is very easy to work for someone who finds a motivated belayer. But I do think that the route should be possible to onsight or do very quickly from the ground for anyone capable of onsighting 8a on the single pitch crags, as this route was put up with a <i>very</i> modern sensibility towards grades. In fact, I would be more impressed by teams onsighting the neighbouring Les Naufragés (a route with a hard to read crux with less modern style of climbing and way less modern application of free climbing grades).</span></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-52787307825022779072020-09-07T22:51:00.029+02:002023-05-31T10:37:49.735+02:00Thirty routes worth doing in the Verdon Gorge<p style="margin: 12pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span face="" lang="SV" style="color: #2f5496;">« Il n'est pas nécessaire de faire beaucoup de courses, mais il est indispensable de parler beaucoup de celles que l’on fait » – Georges Livanos, as quoted by the excellent book <i>Les Fous du Verdon. </i>Guilty as charged.</span></p><div style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 16pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 12pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;">[Last update, May 2023]</div><h1 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 16pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 12pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Verdon</span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span>Generally speaking multi pitch climbing on vertical limestone. Probably the best crag in the world™. Very short approaches as well. You park the car, walk a few meters to the </span>precipice, <span>throw down the ropes and rap in to the start of the route. The routes start either at a hanging belay or a so called <i>garden</i>, i.e. a ledge with trees, large enough to walk around without being tied in.</span></span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Then you climb back up to the top, take the car down to La Palud and reward yourself with a pizza.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxsY18YTC4xrqpqXUbGTQARXs7infmVc4zKUdNcYCJpEM1FE9GMlHNpSiewwpfQdAPfZTLfBIZmhODZ5QQ0934h9-pRgquKu4420kvf3C5DF50fFQiKjZ0OWvWvYPzniYCU3OfS4xWH8/s1080/verdonBorrbult-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxsY18YTC4xrqpqXUbGTQARXs7infmVc4zKUdNcYCJpEM1FE9GMlHNpSiewwpfQdAPfZTLfBIZmhODZ5QQ0934h9-pRgquKu4420kvf3C5DF50fFQiKjZ0OWvWvYPzniYCU3OfS4xWH8/w375-h500/verdonBorrbult-2.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Alex Blaza just past the crux of Kallistée</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Overall, the climbing demands good technique on vertical terrain, which is especially difficult for those of us who mostly do steep sport climbing. Nine out of ten cruxes are about putting the feet in the right place to reach the next position. And having strong enough fingers, sadly. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">When you have rappelled down to the start and pulled down the ropes, there is quite often just one way back up. Verify and verify again that you are rappelling down to the route that you actually plan to climb.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">From many of the gardens there are lots of routes, making it possible to rap down and change to an easier route if you do not get up. From some of the gardens it is possible to keep rappelling down to the bottom of the canyon, walking down to the river and taking the <a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sentier_Martel">Sentier-Martel</a> hiking trail upriver to the parking at Colouir Samson. It would be a cool adventure to do this without headlamps for the access tunnel! (Before battery-powered headlamps were widely in use, and before the road on the rim made it possible to rap in to the routes, this is how climbers usually accessed the climbing; by feeling their way through the tunnels...) Hitch hike back, as it is about 13 km from the Samson parking up to where you parked at the rim.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">As you can stop rappelling at any point and climb back to the rim, the last pitches are always more polished than the first. This is especially true when the last pitch can easily be toproped, witness the state of the last pitch of Ticket Danger </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">for instance, or that of</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Fête des Nerfs.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Season</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: April—November. In theory, it is possible to climb year round for local climbers and connoisseurs. During December to March it is bitingly cold except for a few hours around noon, and in July and August it is fairly warm even on overcast days unless the Mistral is blowing. I like to go to the Verdon in May and June as many of the good sectors are south-east facing, so we usually rap in in the afternoon, start climbing after 2pm and climb until sunset. In the afternoon there are often thermal winds cooling down the rock. However,</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> there will also be afternoon thunderstorms at least one or two days per week. Do not get caught in one! The best conditions are generally found from mid September to mid November when the dry north wind is blowing. (Committed francophiles know to avoid the humid south wind at all cost.)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Many routes do not have cracks or tufas, and as such they generally dry out in an hour or two if there is some wind. Some deep solution pockets formed by dripping water (goutte d'eau) can be wet for longer after rain.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Training before going</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: Make sure that you are good at putting the hands and feet at the same hold. Pied-main, comrades, pied-main! Make sure that you are strong on small positive two-finger pockets. Do circuits or easy problems on vertical ground on the climbing wall but use only the three two-finger pairs (front, mid, and back two). Take the holds actively, i.e. in a crimped or half crimped position without using the thumb of course. Stretch like Edlinger.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Going there</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: Nice or Marseilles airport. Rent a car and drive to <i>La Palud-sur-Verdon</i>. ‘Palud’ is marsh in old French, thus malaria is called paludism in French. Public transport take you as far as Castellane from where it should be possible to hitch-hike to La Palud. One of the campsites in La Palud,</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Camping Municipal -- Grand Canyon,</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> is within easy walking distance from the town and I guess it should be possible to arrange a lift to the climbing most of the days if you are socially talented.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Staying there</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: There are a number of campsites around the Palud, I have only stayed at the municipal campsite which is all right. There are a number of apartments and houses on airbnb and gites-de-france, but they are all fairly expensive unless you are at least four people to split the rent. Renting is substantially cheaper in Castellane (upstream) compared to the Palud but even more expensive towards Moustiers (downstream).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Service</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: In La Palud there is a bakery, two bars, a couple of restaurants, one pizza van, one climbing shop, a couple souvenir shops and one small grocery. Some transactions are cash only, but there is no cash machine in the town, the closest are found in Castellane or Moustiers where you can find super markets as well.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">On the other side of the river</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">: </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">La Ramirole</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> (3 km for the griphon vulture but an hour in car from La Palud) is currently the most well-known crag on the left bank, mostly because it is such an impressive piece of rock and because Antonin Rhodes and Seb Bouin has put up a number of very hard routes there. Ramirole is steep, huge, north facing and full of tufas. Thus it is wet for most parts of the year. The summer and early autumn is the only part of the year when it is possible to climb there during a normal year. There are a number of worthwhile easier routes there but most of the obvious lines are around 8a/+ or (much) harder. Gratis topo on </span><a href="http://greenspits.com/" style="color: #954f72;"><span lang="SV" style="color: #dca10d; font-family: applesystemuifont; text-decoration-line: none;">greenspits.com</span></a><span lang="SV" style="color: #dca10d; font-family: applesystemuifont;">.</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Bauchet</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> is a few kilometre west of Ramirole and offers harshly graded and sometimes very sparsly bolted single pitch routes. A part of the sector is always dry as it is protected by large roofs capping the wall. For some mysterious reason the crag is not very popular these days. In the shade in the afternoon. The route names are written at the base of the routes so a list of route names and grades from left to right is sufficient. We used the info on </span><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bauchet_verdon_rive_gauche-9240" style="color: #954f72;"><span lang="SV" style="color: #dca10d; font-family: applesystemuifont; text-decoration-line: none;">ukclimbing</span></a><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> which was sufficient.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">In the Samson corridor, twenty minutes upriver from La Palud, you will find the sector <i>Hulk</i> just to the right of the impressive Duc. Hulk is like a mini-Ramirole, but with easier routes: from 7b to 8b or so. Hulk is also north facing, overhanging, full of tufas and often wet—but can offer somewhat cool conditions in the summer. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZyy67mdpsB1syiWYSBHv9UIPN_5GXH3OosMRMeb-BNCGZIJXhevOe7_jCYT_31w-UsWzyxg2x90YQCiTqKkzKn4S4zV3yVwneyfTgRCIQINMIkMuwJFhSN1uIExU9cHRDhqbHIn7isM/s1080/18491545_10154412261541603_5164792275613536509_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZyy67mdpsB1syiWYSBHv9UIPN_5GXH3OosMRMeb-BNCGZIJXhevOe7_jCYT_31w-UsWzyxg2x90YQCiTqKkzKn4S4zV3yVwneyfTgRCIQINMIkMuwJFhSN1uIExU9cHRDhqbHIn7isM/s320/18491545_10154412261541603_5164792275613536509_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Tyrolean across the river on the approach to Hulk and Duc</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Other important climbing areas close</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> <span lang="SV">to La Palud: Gorges du Loup (sport, 90 min), Aiglun (multipitch, 90 min), Céüse (sport + multipitch, 2.5 h), Châteauvert (sport, 90 minuter), Annot (bouldering + trad 65 min), Orpierre (sport, 2 h), Buoux (sport, 2 h). The times given are for driving at what I judge to be a normal speed on very winding roads.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span face="" style="color: #2f5496;"><span style="font-family: verdana; font-weight: normal;">Equipment</span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">At least 100 m rope in total for rappelling, see below for details. About a dozen quick draws will see you up most routes as they made the pitches short in the 80s (well you try to climb with 11 mm doubles... ). Some new routes require up to eighteen draws. Bring a few shoulder length slings for tie offs and threads and to extend a sling or two. Bring something for the belays (two shoulder length slings per team, and one Petzl adjustable cow's tail and one extra biner imho), a belay device with a guide mode, one extra locking crab, a few extra loose crabs for the belays and for clipping in a water bottle and wind jacket to the harness. Bring a helmet.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">For easier pitches it is nice to have “hiking shoes”, i.e. climbing shoes half a size bigger than usual, but they should be brand new if possible. On harder pitches ultra-precise shoes are necessary. The climbing is a lot about putting the feet high on really pathetic footholds.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">For teams pushing the grade it is quite common to bring a skyhook or two and an extra sling to stand in for aiding mandatory cruxes that cannot be done in free. For some classic routes a few pieces of protection is often nice to have. A small set of wires and some friends (camalot #0.3 to #1) will be enough for almost all routes. A few classic routes like ULA (which has had all bolts not on belays chopped off) and Estampore require a full rack. None of the routes I recommend requires any removable protection.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<p style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial;">For short routes (up to 200 m)</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span> half ropes or twins. Most pitches are short and 50 m rope is much better than 60 m as you have less rope to deal with on the belays, and 100 m of rope is enough for the raps. Clip a water bottle and an ultra light wind jacket to the harness. Verdon is in the mountains and it can start to rain at any moment. A </span>Provençal thunderstorm is no joke. Climbers have died in thunderstorms, indirectly from hypothermia, as well as from direct hits.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">For longer routes:</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> <span lang="SV">a skinny single rope (50 m is perfect in Verdon) plus a thin dynamic (twin or half) for rappels and to haul a small bag. Doing lots of rappels on a thin static is inadvisable as they have a tendency to get twisted. A directional pulley (Petzl Micro traxion or Edelrid spoc) to haul a small bag (20 l. is more than sufficient for water, food, shoes and an extra jumper). Belay the leader on a grigri and the second on a belay plate in guide mode. You do not really need a specialised haul bag in Verdon as the routes are steep and the rock not too abrasive. Any old small rucksack is good. The drawback with hauling on dynamic ropes is that it is physically harder and murder on the rope if the sac is heavy. So do not put a lot of stupid stuff in the haulbag.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Guidebook:</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Verdon 2017. 52 years and 520 routes in the Verdon</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> is not a complete guide book, but it has everything you need unless you are planning to do one of the aid routes or some of the mystery quests. It is also the only guidebook I've seen that doesn't regularly mix up grades and pitches, draw them on unclimbed rock or are just generally bad. The history section in the book is good, but it should be complemented by Bernard Vaucher's <a href="https://www.editionspaulsen.com/les-fous-du-verdon-1855.html">Les Fous du Verdon</a> if you have more than a passing interest. The only draw-back is that it is out of print and unavailable both in French and in English.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The best alternative currently in print might be Bruno Clément's <i>Verdon Inte'graal</i>, a guide-book that covers both side of the river, both long routes as well as single-pitch routes.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<h1 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 16pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 12pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading2Char"><span lang="SV">Thirty recommended routes in order countercurrent to the Verdon river </span></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;">For every route we give the guidebook grade, approximate length and the so called <i>mandatory</i> grade. The mandatory grade is indicating how difficult it is to climb between the points/pieces of protection. Most of the time assuming no direct aid in hooks or standing in ladders. Sometimes the mandatory grade is given in a combination of free and aid grades like 6c/A1, in which case it is assumed that the leader is standing in a sling clipped to a hook or to natural gear between doing free moves. A0 indicating that the leader is not just pulling on draws but is standing in slings clipped to fixed protection to reach higher.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;">The mandatory grade is often difficult to estimate when onsighting a pitch, but when it is correctly given it is the most important factor when deciding if you have the capabilities to do a route. As a rule of thumb, take the level you can redpoint in a day on a sport climbing crag and remove two letter grades. If the mandatory grade is at this level or lower you will be fine. E.g., say that you do 7c in a day, then you should be able to get up routes that are 7a mandatory.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;">The free climbing grades in Verdon are a bit uneven. Partly because the development of sport climbing happened very fast during the heydays of Verdon in the late 70s and early 80s. (Berhault got so good so fast!) And partly because certain pitches have become polished, especially where people are aiding past short hard cruxes. When feet are sliding around in ladders the rock gets incredibly polished. I am loath to give my own grade suggestions but I am trying to indicate where I found the grades particularly harsh for me.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"><br /></span></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Grand Eycharme<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Not a part of les Escales proper, this escarpment is found upriver just across from Ramirole on the other side of the river. </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Estampore and Les Caquous are the most well-know routes.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbA8aJzpFQqw5S-FIMhaQA2mF4VnEkhFoSdq68VwqtclZ3_-7vpMSPGe2RTjBc-GojJA1LJzymAtHUCH7u_Qt6zySykKDKTefpC7b9upfTRzVLgodFj_JIjgXdH506esu2Jd-yIQNZyVM/s1080/18451365_10154412261431603_5083640842556942634_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbA8aJzpFQqw5S-FIMhaQA2mF4VnEkhFoSdq68VwqtclZ3_-7vpMSPGe2RTjBc-GojJA1LJzymAtHUCH7u_Qt6zySykKDKTefpC7b9upfTRzVLgodFj_JIjgXdH506esu2Jd-yIQNZyVM/w400-h266/18451365_10154412261431603_5083640842556942634_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: left;">The second rappel is a lot less airy than the first...</span><span style="text-align: left;"> Really!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Monstrous rappel! The first rap diagonally on climbers left and not quite 50m. Use a prussic and consider tying knots in the end of the rope even if you are a jackass. Alternatively, the brave/idiotic climber rappels straight down with 2x60 m rope and start the pendeldum motion before loosing contact with the rock so that they can swing in under the overlap, put a toehook around the juniper and clip in to the rappel on the plumb line 59.5 m below the first chain. This is what I did the first time down this rap and would have had what de guide book describes as a “great moment of solitude with the prussic” if not some Italian climbers below had yelled “la ballant! LA BALLANT!” from the top of their voices.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;"><span lang="FR">Les Caquous, 6c (6b mandatory) 200 m</span></span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Steep and athletic climbing following a dihedral formation. </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The first ascent was done ground up over forty five years ago and was protected by pitons, tie-offs and a lot of bravery. When climbing this route note that the fifth pitch, which leaves the dihedral (where Surface is now going) and follows a line of nice pockets on the left wall, was done in free onsight except for a few rest points in pitons hammered in to pockets. Wild! A few climbers have talked quite a lot about chopping this route that now has bolts that one of the first ascensionist has put in all the way. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Most people wisely skip the two first pitches, we started by the second pitch that is mostly aid climbing in a roof, so complicated and not fun for the second. If 6c is at the onsight limit of the team, it could be a good idea to bring a set of large wires or two-three friends (camalot #0.4 to #0.75). All hard parts are close to bolts.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">In the vernacular of Marseille, </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">a <i>caquou</i> (<a href="https://fr.wiktionary.org/wiki/cacou#Fran%C3%A7ais">spelling varies</a>) is a young delinquent or sometimes a show off.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><a href="http://abert.gt2.fr/accueil/photos/photo/europe/france/verdon/lecharme-les-caquous/les-caquous/singleimg/1098/desc/1098.html">Photos from the first ascension on the site of Guy Abert</a>.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41bOKMmAGpUBqvfSgsVvAUpOswpSD2c5pbGjd1nW7rrnlCvtlaQFISS3bSS2bQTErY8N0PO9jRe0zGkH2kYFF3zDkmrXjF0CCvj76rMT3k_VW1f8U5eEP14HsV_NROdQ-ecFyzbWd6Kg/s1024/13305088_10153552948901603_6888664089833806993_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41bOKMmAGpUBqvfSgsVvAUpOswpSD2c5pbGjd1nW7rrnlCvtlaQFISS3bSS2bQTErY8N0PO9jRe0zGkH2kYFF3zDkmrXjF0CCvj76rMT3k_VW1f8U5eEP14HsV_NROdQ-ecFyzbWd6Kg/w400-h266/13305088_10153552948901603_6888664089833806993_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Climber in green helmet on Les Caquous. The team on r. on <i>Surface's </i>first pitch</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Surface, 7b (6b+ mandatory) 200 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Even steeper and more athletic than Les Caquous. Varied climbing with a little bit of everything. The first 7b pitch is the key to the route but is not tricky, just a short bit of yarding on pockets. The second 7b pitch is well height dependent: let the taller climber lead. Climbers shorter than 170 cm better be good to do this easily, while the really tall can skip any difficulties.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHFLUo3qXiA0Q94HI0HPqmamd_5Qqqds36vEsQWqocJx1TZL5PVdWWv54Qew9fi1QGefc-Xej1DjPLomzO-N9uJRtUz3bt8SrxBSza6BBEtsx_-vLbLDKRt_xFFuTfiszlqwuab_ZwNs/s1080/18489647_10154412259591603_316219544615420681_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHFLUo3qXiA0Q94HI0HPqmamd_5Qqqds36vEsQWqocJx1TZL5PVdWWv54Qew9fi1QGefc-Xej1DjPLomzO-N9uJRtUz3bt8SrxBSza6BBEtsx_-vLbLDKRt_xFFuTfiszlqwuab_ZwNs/w400-h266/18489647_10154412259591603_316219544615420681_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Erik Nordfeldt on the 2nd 7b-pitch of Surface</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV">Sector Gueule d'Amour<o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rap in via <i>Bottes</i> (written near the chains). Two very comfortable steep raps (45 m + 50 m) down to the garden. This sector is overhanging with some large capping roofs and it is possible to climb here during rain as all pitches except the last ones will stay dry. On the other side the routes suffer from seepage after sustained rain.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">On this sector you will probably not see a lot of other climbers, as the easiest route is 6c and quite particular in style. The modern climber should probably be able to climb 6c mandatory to get up the easiest routes.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial;">Double Fond 7a+ (6c mandatory) 100 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: inherit;"> Steep climbing on flowstone, tufas and in cracks with a spectacular caving expedition near the top. I've seen a lot of different grade suggestions on the pitches but here is what we thought (for what it is worth): 7a, 7a+, 6b, 2c, 5c.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Frimes & Bananes<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">I prefer to rap in via </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Mort à Venice</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. The first rappel is 55 m down to a small garden. Pull down the ropes and scramble down the ledge to find the chain above the chimney </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Heavy Metal</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. The last bit down to the chain is a bit exposed/dangerous, so take care! A single 50 m rappel down to the base. Alternatively do three raps on the descent that crosses</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> </span><i style="font-size: 12pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Mandarin Merveilleux</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. (Two raps if you start with a 60 m rappel and a prayer to the Virgin Mary that the rope will not get stuck on the bushes below the second chain: it worked for me once 🤷).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><i>Frimes et Châtiments (</i>Lit. “Swagger & punishment”—Frimes rhymes with Crime so it is an allusion to Dostoevsky's novel), the eponymous route of the sector<i> </i>is a fine route, I'm sure, but I have only climbed the pitches it shares with <i>Il giochio de prestigio</i> (see below). Those pitches are very good.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span face="" style="font-size: small; text-align: center;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL92OunXmrakD1oi-zmEuPa_EPF5AWuj1btuGEz9GN-1gsLx6Jj3fVQ9NnV12C63lNc_UYMHwYPHppj2uoL70fzRqCkqfcZPjp7qHAChwe_su7-9Cr2jX9nRDQ1fYAUKOx7q8wRPMNNnU/s1080/ilgiochi2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="812" data-original-width="1080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL92OunXmrakD1oi-zmEuPa_EPF5AWuj1btuGEz9GN-1gsLx6Jj3fVQ9NnV12C63lNc_UYMHwYPHppj2uoL70fzRqCkqfcZPjp7qHAChwe_su7-9Cr2jX9nRDQ1fYAUKOx7q8wRPMNNnU/w400-h301/ilgiochi2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me on Frimes et Châtiments/Sidermek. The only moderate route on the sector.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Surveiller et Punir 7a+ (6c mandatory) 110 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. Four sustained pitches. The first of which is mostly just awkward, the second is demanding with quite spaced bolts, the third has ha hard crux, and the last pitch is steep but very easy compared to the pitches below for the present-day climber. The second and the last pitch are particularly good.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">“Surveiller et Punir” is a book by Michel Focault. The English translation is titled “Discipline and punish”. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2L0uqONj_go" target="_blank"><Nice video of the crux pitch here></a></span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Il Giochi de Prestigio 7b (6c+ mandatory) 120 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. About has hard as Surveiller... The second pitch is often wet. That is unfortunate as it offers good steep climbing on open pockets. The third pitch is a nice slab. Finish up Frimes et Chatiments where the pitch grades are much lower, but is the climbing really that much easier?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7z3rNFuC_v8KtIFXiNgHkebkX48RLQdmuZpYPdwrOTAv6Xso3vCDYZDl2rzOpEOyZqM6D6cnzSRwype5uZXVvNpmpATmvhPa016aT_5ICaLHEWYAgSFIYQdobjIfYQDirm8SP4AK5IQ/s1350/ilgiochi1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7z3rNFuC_v8KtIFXiNgHkebkX48RLQdmuZpYPdwrOTAv6Xso3vCDYZDl2rzOpEOyZqM6D6cnzSRwype5uZXVvNpmpATmvhPa016aT_5ICaLHEWYAgSFIYQdobjIfYQDirm8SP4AK5IQ/s320/ilgiochi1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Erik Nordfeldt på Il Giochio</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><i>Il giochi de prestigio</i> is Italian for “a game of <i>prestige</i>”, i.e. stage magic. (In English as well as in French <i>prestige</i> has lost its original sense of ‘conjuring tricks’, if I am not mistaken).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Phœbus 7a (6b+ mandatory) 130 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. Friendly and good warm-up route. Recently and well rebolted. Neither sustained nor airy. Phœbus is an epithet for the god Apollon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Hellfest 7a+ (6c mandatory) 260 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> is a popular new route and a pleasant long day on the rock, without offering that memorable climbing which can be nice sometimes. Walk by Phœbus and make two more rappels down to the base of </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">La voie de 50 cm</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> (OK route with fun and varied climbing—50 cm refers to the width of the band of solid rock—but not an ultra classic). Hellfest starts just to the right of the 50 cm route. Start by climbing the tree and do not let the shame trick you into transfer over to the rock too early.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Hellfest is a well-known French heavy metal music festival.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fZFix3xbI4fzBWujAmCqhR5fd8nnNWGLOMN8y1UshIwjV8DwZkiLw3ldqLj66Id7ttdwr8iVOqjqPScgFBAYBpWvByrLByiri9nW1UDjkd0Wt5PV-GO4fONI2Y27oiyV-86orZTxVhM/s1080/hellfest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fZFix3xbI4fzBWujAmCqhR5fd8nnNWGLOMN8y1UshIwjV8DwZkiLw3ldqLj66Id7ttdwr8iVOqjqPScgFBAYBpWvByrLByiri9nW1UDjkd0Wt5PV-GO4fONI2Y27oiyV-86orZTxVhM/w400-h300/hellfest.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Julia på Hellfest</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Pilier Gousseault</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">On the Gousseualt pillar, named in honor of <a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serge_Gousseault">Serge Gousseault</a>, there are two imposing and popular free routes</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">If the guides/rock-climbing schools have installed fixed ropes down </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Sordidon</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> use those by all means, otherwise I would avoid this rappel route like the plague. Instead, three very comfortable raps down <i>Heure Zero</i> leads to the </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Banana-garden</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. Trainers nice but not necessary to walk down the garden to the start of the routes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Pilier Gousseault is completely south facing so the following two routes should be attempted during overcast days in the spring or fall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNZqalP0uQzRVeigoTX6983Esy-Xr1748aXwFv8WTwvCnmRv-HsabyMdZ2B-N8wZGuCzgoJ9iv9u3VFtvVWmbbMIq9DOIGYi4C4Dn44tXrUeB3xywXSYI8IUlUIBq_O4BVadThYCgpkE/s1391/LRM_EXPORT_20190503_205226.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1391" data-original-width="1043" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNZqalP0uQzRVeigoTX6983Esy-Xr1748aXwFv8WTwvCnmRv-HsabyMdZ2B-N8wZGuCzgoJ9iv9u3VFtvVWmbbMIq9DOIGYi4C4Dn44tXrUeB3xywXSYI8IUlUIBq_O4BVadThYCgpkE/w375-h500/LRM_EXPORT_20190503_205226.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pilier Gousseault in all its glory. Johan Hasslow on the penultimate pitch with me hiding among the trees.<br />Note all the highlines!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Via Mathis upper part 7a+ (6c mandatory) 200 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> I have it on good authority that the lower part has an absolutely amazing finger-sized crack (7c) but I have only climbed the upper part, which offers good and airy climbing on somewhat worse rock than its famous neighbour. The second pitch is a bit tricky without any real warm-up since the first pitch is not very physical. After that it proceeds nicely up the pillar with an excellent pitch up to the old juniper tree visible in the photo above, about 60-70 m below the top where a twenty metre long tunnel (headlamp redundant) leads to a paradise ledge, a short easy pitch and a magnificent last pitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPBdCgR7RPbxYg5abeJB_X03g4cwhIzhka03mEOIXuIS_Q63TG5CaQhEFw-JgVibHlBy95su7sugiq1EVuUD0f7fgLTtksEIq00sFLoOFFdoKw6GebacV6cc6cxPjA6dogqWcO19CEFI/s1080/fete1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPBdCgR7RPbxYg5abeJB_X03g4cwhIzhka03mEOIXuIS_Q63TG5CaQhEFw-JgVibHlBy95su7sugiq1EVuUD0f7fgLTtksEIq00sFLoOFFdoKw6GebacV6cc6cxPjA6dogqWcO19CEFI/w400-h400/fete1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strong frenchies on La fête des nerfs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">La Fête des Nerfs 7a+ (6c+ mandatory) 260 m</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Legendary mid-size wall with unbelievably good rock quality all the way. Fixed ropes leads to an anchor a final rap down to the bottom of the wall, and a technical and time-consuming 50 m slab, which cannot be skipped if you want to claim to have done the route, leads back to the belay. Everything that follows is demanding on the fingers and harder than you might think looking at the topo. The mandatory grade (6c+) is probably only reached on the second to last pitch in a small dihedral with a thin crack. Not so bad if you are good at crack climbing! The last pitch (7a+) could maybe have one more bolt, otherwise the route is very well bolted. What make the route difficult/legendary is the sustained character of the climbing. I know of a 9a-climber (who will remain nameless) who simply did not manage to get up the last pitch and had to be rescued by their mate who send down a rope with a jumar attached... (This is <i>very unlikely</i> to happen to anyone used to multipitch climbing, I should add.)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR">Grande Baume-sektorn</span></h2></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span face="calibri, sans-serif" style="color: #1f3763;">Golem 7a (6c mandatory) 110 m </span></span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Superb old-school route on a sector just upstream from <i>Pillier Goussault</i>. Despite the route's age and relatively amenable grade it has few signs of traffic, especially on the first two pitches. The first pitch is rather difficult in the morning with cold fingers. Thread carefully up and right with some serious air beneath the feet. The climbing on pitch 1, 2, 4 and 5 is simply sublime! We avoided the last pitch (6a), which has an 8 mm spinner as the single point protecting against a fall into a ledge, by climbing the last pitch of the route to its left. We found the pitch-grades on this incorrect, especially on the second pitch. Most pitch-grades should be adjusted half a grade upwards.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR">Rivière d'Argent-sektorn<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Rêves de Fer 6b+ (6b mandatory) 100 m</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> A g</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">ood and fairly sustained three pitch route. As for most routes on this sector you will from time to time have quite a lot of air beneath you. A not too difficult introduction to the more airy routes. Approach by rappelling down the route while counting to three. If you loose count and rappel past the lowest chain you will be able to practice ascending a free hanging rope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AE43Re_OPe3BoP-ErtziXDT7sZsm7iit6FFANU8NeKBbrRiiB80GdsjUN9kZzJwrT3ruVxTlPg8uPYtY_k26qdNv67Rakq9tbu9Uoj8_Gna8GexQUgf_QlJYxGl0WY53COdWZp0k0i4/s1024/fred.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AE43Re_OPe3BoP-ErtziXDT7sZsm7iit6FFANU8NeKBbrRiiB80GdsjUN9kZzJwrT3ruVxTlPg8uPYtY_k26qdNv67Rakq9tbu9Uoj8_Gna8GexQUgf_QlJYxGl0WY53COdWZp0k0i4/w400-h300/fred.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fredrik Nyberg on the last pitch of Rivière d'Argent </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rêves de Fer (The Iron Dream) is a science-fiction novel by Norman Spinrad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">L'Ange en Décomposition 7a (6c mandatory) 100 m </span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Another legendary and excellent route where the second pitch, which goes up a slightly overhanging pillar, offers excellent climbing as soon as you are past a polished slab off the belay. Approach by rappelling down the route.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The last pitch is easy, which is reassuring as it does not have that many bolts, something that gave rise to some complications for me and another senior climber who with more than fifty years of climbing between us rapped in three pitches one hour before sunset without bringing headlamps. Fortunately, the oldtimer who wasn't me is actually a good climber and could do a no-sight ascent of the last pitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">“Jonas, I cannot see any bolts. Do you remember vaguely where the route goes?”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">“Bah, we didn't see many bolts when we did it in broad daylight either. Upwards and onwards!”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">L'Ange en Décomposition</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> (The Decay of an Angel) is a novel by</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Mishima. Patrick Edlinger takes a long fall for camera on the easy part of pitch two in <i>Opera Vertical</i>. There is a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84eWQOfx3TY">nice clip on youtube of Alain Robert climbing solo</a> from above the crux to the top.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Rivière d'Argent 6b+ (6b mandatory) 120 m</span><b><span style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">is a good introduction to this section of Escales. Not that hard, not that airy, but with excellent climbing on superb rock. Approach by descending the route on rappel. The top chain has the name written next to it. There are also indications how to find the rap on the approach path. I am not sure why this route is called Rivière d'Argent (River of Silver/Money).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Barbapoupon 6b+ (6b+ mandatory) 150 m</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> <span lang="SV">is worse as an introduction, but surely even better as a route than Rivière d'argent! Approach by rappelling down Rivière but don't stop at its first belay, instead keep going another twenty meter over a big overhang and down to a slab where you can pull yourself into the first belay of Barbapoupon. In total fifty meter. After a first traversing pitch follows a pitch with a difficult and mandatory crux. The third pitch has very sustained and rather mandatory climbing that might be technically a bit easier than the second. These 6b+ pitches are a lot harder than the 6b+ on </span></span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;"><i>Rivière d'Argent, </i>in my humble opinion</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. The third to the seventh pitch are all magnificent. Not only one of the oldest but also surely one of the best routes in the Verdon! Quite a few old 8 mm bolts, but they still look good (June 2020) and the belays are bomber with at least one new 12 mm on each belay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDih0kkIotE-N1g3cO_FpUAbH87G0VXLmXOlsVAmALSqPhLy9AocArt2mt7l8Z9YwWqIA8tZCv5NPH7HY145gFYLyY9DHci21WebB6V7pYlQBEhmbaTipkoYJm4dN4XR-jPiR8LVP37AQ/s1080/verdonBorrbult-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDih0kkIotE-N1g3cO_FpUAbH87G0VXLmXOlsVAmALSqPhLy9AocArt2mt7l8Z9YwWqIA8tZCv5NPH7HY145gFYLyY9DHci21WebB6V7pYlQBEhmbaTipkoYJm4dN4XR-jPiR8LVP37AQ/w300-h400/verdonBorrbult-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on the 3rd pitch of Barbapoupon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />A <i>poupoun</i> is a tiny baby, and the route is named to taunt the bearded artist/antagonist who derisively painted a parrot at the top of <i>Dingomaniaque</i>, the first ascent of which was immortalised in the first French film to showcase free climbing: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9huFfHVnuZg">Verdon, la porte des cieux</a> (<-- click for an extract from the film)<br /><br />
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Ticket Danger<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div>
<span lang="SV">Approach down the route <i>Ticket danger</i>. Fairly easy and painless. To the delight and disgust of the sightseers at the Carelle belvedere:</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> climb over the fence and scramble down to the chain marked “Ticket danger”. All rappels are on the plumb line, except the fourth rappel where you have to go diagonally climbers right/skiers left to a chain just to the right of a small pillar.</span></div>
<div>
<span lang="SV"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Ticket Danger 6a+ (5c mandatory) 140 m <i>or</i> 7a+ (6c mandatory) 200 m</span><b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> If you stop the decent before the last (fifth) 50 m rappel down to the garden you can climb a good five pitch route where all pitches are 6a or 6a+. The two last pitches are <i>fantastically good</i>, even if the last pitch is polished by top ropers and a bit runout. The 6a climber can have a more comfortable experience by finishing in Clic-clac (5c), apparently (I have not tried this). Climbers who are confident that they can get up 6c mandatory terrain should most definitely rappel all the way down to the garden (an escape up another route in case of failure is improbable).The second pitch (6c+ > 6c) is good and sustained. The “first” pitch is 7a+ and a boulder problem on rather sharp crimps, but bolted so that it can easily be climbed as A0 then 6c. To reach the belay for the “first” pitch you have to traverse a ledge with four bolts at a low grade—curiously enough this is not described in the guidebook.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAemH3EvtWBdkomk4ukHPSCcK1ipCpF7o-NfFxhXJ0QL9i-OM0vJ8NhiQx_zD8kC9MMd9edLFwzYSX2hmLe6bavxFP4_slRbZWM4IyN0ovKhlD4myKWVjrHKoHuvj130P3QT1J277mWGs/s1080/verdonBorrbult-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAemH3EvtWBdkomk4ukHPSCcK1ipCpF7o-NfFxhXJ0QL9i-OM0vJ8NhiQx_zD8kC9MMd9edLFwzYSX2hmLe6bavxFP4_slRbZWM4IyN0ovKhlD4myKWVjrHKoHuvj130P3QT1J277mWGs/w300-h400/verdonBorrbult-3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me seconding the second pitch of Ticket Danger</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Pichenibule<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rap Ticket danger as described above and walk (shoes nice but not necessary) skiers left down the garden to a rappel station/first anchor on Rideaux de Gwendal, and descend to the bottom of the wall.</span><b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;"><span lang="SV">Les rideaux de Gwendal 7b+ (6c+/A1 or 7a+ mandatory) 250 m</span></span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">. An ultra classic and historically important route. The first pitch (7a) which leads back directly to the garden is probably avoided by a lot of climbers as it shows few signs of traffic. Sustained climbing around 6b till 6c+ with a key pitch that is quite a bit more difficult. The hard pitch (7b+?) has a really difficult crux (which felt about 7a+ mandatory without nuts or skyhooks), but with a wallnut #7 or a skyhook and a foot sling you can apparently quite easily aid this section: which of course has lead to this section being polished like a mirror.</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI41vwZ80u6PLBdQnXf8i97nKtRG_yOr0YHnEszRpmOio89IpKLeUJom1BZUC-GDVvT63vZu8vD6C0jVLVeBow_a1-NVNw3bmwku2Vk2MP0nNEKOlGjWGJjHRD0BGwv-DD8q4DXOCxOb8/s1024/20130322-DSCN0999.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI41vwZ80u6PLBdQnXf8i97nKtRG_yOr0YHnEszRpmOio89IpKLeUJom1BZUC-GDVvT63vZu8vD6C0jVLVeBow_a1-NVNw3bmwku2Vk2MP0nNEKOlGjWGJjHRD0BGwv-DD8q4DXOCxOb8/w375-h500/20130322-DSCN0999.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="" style="background-color: #fdfefa; color: #333333;">Julia on the belay where Pichenibule and Gwendal intersect. Me on 2nd. Photo © </span><span face="" style="background-color: #fdfefa; color: #333333;">Tatu Autio</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Higher up you have to navigate the excellent and infamous 6c+ pitch which also has fairly hard mandatory climbing (6c+? could be!). Excellent climbing nonetheless. A number of teams have, due to exhaustion I'm sure, not been able to get up this, and had to escape left via </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Pichenibul</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> to the top (Four pitches: 7a (6b mandatory), 5c, A0/6a or 7c, 6a). Why the route is called “Gwendal's curtains” escapes me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A classic link-up is to climb<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Rideaux-Pichenibul-Cthuluh 7b+ 270 m</span><b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Like those who cannot get up the seventh pitch of Rideaux (6c+) take the great traversing pitch of Pichenibule out left (7a) and then join Cthuluh (6c+, 6a) to the top. Cthuluhs first pitch is <i>absolutely wild</i>, and for those who have used aid on the crux of the 7b-pitch below this is without doubt the crux of the route. Tiny wires, lots of patience or good route reading skills can all be helpful to get between the bolts on the crux. Cthuluh is a fictional monster in the literary works of H. P. Lovecraft.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Dalle grises</span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A comfortable descent that is not at all steep with lots of options for the rappels leads down to the so-called “Squirrel garden”. On this sector there are no worries about not getting up the routes as you can always abort, rap down to the garden and climb </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;"><i>Dalle Gris (Grey slab) </i>5c+ 130 m<i>.</i></span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Afin Que Nul ne Meure 6a+ (5c mandatory) 150m</span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A five-pitch route, well worth doing. Not very steep. Only the last pitch is in the 6th grade, the rest is easier. The name (“So that no one dies”) is alluding to the bolting which was viewed as very generous at the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Démon 7a+ (7a mandatory) 160m</span><b><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Amazing climbing. Amazing rock. Pockets. A bit polished with a mandatory grade around 7a. The forth pitch is not to be under estimated.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIstDR2PoZRH8XzjkRHXLCrpEUNgElRc-BDOqUhqZKj8c2DY5ehxbmTPDKFTgLBSaBI6QIximKd_HDMyVn0e9vp9Z0hodP5H7BESzoOXVuAmmVnvX0aMoSBZ6Mei8Ulf-Mes2p8HzBxI/s1024/13308145_10153556790216603_6512489078887679769_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIstDR2PoZRH8XzjkRHXLCrpEUNgElRc-BDOqUhqZKj8c2DY5ehxbmTPDKFTgLBSaBI6QIximKd_HDMyVn0e9vp9Z0hodP5H7BESzoOXVuAmmVnvX0aMoSBZ6Mei8Ulf-Mes2p8HzBxI/w400-h266/13308145_10153556790216603_6512489078887679769_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fourth pitch of Démon</span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Mangoustine Scatophage 6c+ (6c mandatory) 150m. </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Classic route, the three first pitches has nice climbing with a difficult to find but still logical itinerary, where in particular the difficult slab climbing on the first pitch wakes you up. Finishes with a few fifth grade pitches who are quite memorable. A scatophage is a shit-eater, but I do not understand what <i>mangoustine</i> refers to, so it is probably a word play well above my pay grade.<br /><br />The first ascent was done ground up and the first ascensionist used two bolts on the first pitch. Something to reflect on when leading this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JCKnv0qSkVEdDQB3224JAxjuJ_50pp7739MCovzFcN8C9KU76iuuIQwYLo4PjnxQcJBmw73tv8qMQWvziMG2oouNFCXcCOSVACfxMQNdzI7cbDUbmgECEXoO5ihdycfSoZ2voOVCMZk/s1024/Mango.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JCKnv0qSkVEdDQB3224JAxjuJ_50pp7739MCovzFcN8C9KU76iuuIQwYLo4PjnxQcJBmw73tv8qMQWvziMG2oouNFCXcCOSVACfxMQNdzI7cbDUbmgECEXoO5ihdycfSoZ2voOVCMZk/w375-h500/Mango.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Me on Mangoustine... Photo: © <span style="background-color: #fdfefa; color: #333333;">Tatu Autio</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Prise de Cent, the upper part 7a+ (6b+ mandatory) 150 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> A few really good but also some average pitches, reasonably graded in comparison to a lot of other stuff, so you will be happy feeling strong. I have not climbed the lower part up to the garden.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Prise de cent was the hundredth first ascent by the famous Remy-brothers, thus the name</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAt_sLaAoAh3iB0i4DcUCrmWQHzcmp0TrIuT9yKmF8qHgOFagFkytNQbI0HpwOOAEg00RwM0jZFwPSqlZfZY6RGtnMYNdSte3o3hMT639g1T8ywsmyBdi12MAddamjtABb8C15c3E0fRI/s1080/18489750_10154412260501603_4762092841140280788_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="1080" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAt_sLaAoAh3iB0i4DcUCrmWQHzcmp0TrIuT9yKmF8qHgOFagFkytNQbI0HpwOOAEg00RwM0jZFwPSqlZfZY6RGtnMYNdSte3o3hMT639g1T8ywsmyBdi12MAddamjtABb8C15c3E0fRI/w400-h274/18489750_10154412260501603_4762092841140280788_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Prise de cent. Erik Nordfeldt on the penultimate pitch.</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR">Sector Mégafoot<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="SV">On this sector you will probably be by yourself even the most crowded days. A large slab of very high quality Verdon grey. The reason to the lacking popularity is probably that it is a bad idea to rap in to the garden at the base of the routes if you are not absolutely sure that you will get up an old school bolted 6c+ or an even older school 6c chimney on gear. (An escape down to the Squirrel Garden is likely possible if you sacrifice some gear.) Rap in from the chain marked </span><span lang="SV"> </span><i><span lang="SV">Les Barjots</span></i><span lang="SV">, and absolutely not along </span><i><span lang="SV">Pique Assaut</span></i><span lang="SV"> as the guidebook text claims! This is one of the very few errors I have found in <i>Verdon 52 years</i>. The first rap is only 15–20 meter, but do not try to do the first two rappels in one. The rope could well get stuck which would lead to some fairly serious troubles.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;"><span lang="FR">The Mégafoot Triology 7b (6c+ mandatory) 310 m</span></span><b><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">(Mégafoot 7a+, Pierre de Lune 7b, Pique Assaut 6c+). </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A classic afternoon in the shade for the strong team.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqjZ7wziyiK-TkisIggQg0rqdhBKYU5ILOI0vdjkK3ff9Uxhbz0IEqYZoKJ3gPH05e1aGfKBx9Nzp-2B9TgJZ41wxCe-OahWgYY53WBNZi81mzSeUh1Xv3aVw-4n34ThYDfRuctzHgH8/s1080/102671875_10156981542121603_8731902210849246767_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqjZ7wziyiK-TkisIggQg0rqdhBKYU5ILOI0vdjkK3ff9Uxhbz0IEqYZoKJ3gPH05e1aGfKBx9Nzp-2B9TgJZ41wxCe-OahWgYY53WBNZi81mzSeUh1Xv3aVw-4n34ThYDfRuctzHgH8/w300-h400/102671875_10156981542121603_8731902210849246767_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">First pitch of Mégafoot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Start with Mégafoot, 7a+ 110 m, which is a demanding route. All pitches felt hard, put we were perhaps soft. The first pitch is brilliant and a bit sparsely bolted toward the top, the second pitch crosses some absolutely improbable terrain for the grade, the third pitch is aggressive on the fingers on a technically difficult slab and the fourth pitch is almost peerless in its magnificence. That was as far as we got before got lazy. </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Pierre de Lune</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> is said to be significantly more difficult and </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">Pique assaut</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> (Pike attack/Picasso) is supposedly not to be underestimated. Let me get back to you later ...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwQJzenHWkrNFgtr2NhsNRP3V44_8nw5QqGjC-YQhv-ylBmqvMS8T7vsoXcaQ8fZyV4FxOZmswtR6YdtDKlcDtbc2dxWkKFIDlLCuFLft9xPrz3mBsvMYykYu508ozvOhurMrc2JzFzs/s1080/102677077_10156981542086603_1203612830256233847_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwQJzenHWkrNFgtr2NhsNRP3V44_8nw5QqGjC-YQhv-ylBmqvMS8T7vsoXcaQ8fZyV4FxOZmswtR6YdtDKlcDtbc2dxWkKFIDlLCuFLft9xPrz3mBsvMYykYu508ozvOhurMrc2JzFzs/w300-h400/102677077_10156981542086603_1203612830256233847_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Alex Blaza sketching above the last bolt on the last pitch of Mégafoot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face=""><br /><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR">Sector ULA</span></h2><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span lang="FR"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Au-delà du délire 7a/A0 (6c mandatory) 150-200 m</span><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Amazing climbing on good pockets. Fairly generously bolted. </span></span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">This ultra-classic route is not done often despite being featured in Parois de Légende. And as it protected by an awkward access it will likely stay free of polish for many years to come. </span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Either access via the route ULA which requires a full rack with a double set of cams (which I have not yet climbed) or by rapping down Tranxène 5. The rap of Tranxène 5 is found about 50 m downstream from Les Marches du Temp on a small ledge one metre below the rim (Tranxene written on the rock at the rim). The rap of Tranxène is very airy.</span></div><div style="color: #1f3763; font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span lang="FR"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRy5YYLOD-nBxGbbfBoLFeaGYER_g1xQPq8K3zXZMinfzvIt0DOJXC3JJPzftD72coqAZ8e3Jaq4Lquv7ROBd_gB05pxzpuOcfpYiI9Q75wtpddvpQs-cct9Bsvf8TBBuLG1ZaJj_2JrH/s2048/IMG20211014134146.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRy5YYLOD-nBxGbbfBoLFeaGYER_g1xQPq8K3zXZMinfzvIt0DOJXC3JJPzftD72coqAZ8e3Jaq4Lquv7ROBd_gB05pxzpuOcfpYiI9Q75wtpddvpQs-cct9Bsvf8TBBuLG1ZaJj_2JrH/w300-h400/IMG20211014134146.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on the third pitch of Au-delà, counting from the traverse</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Au-delà du delire was first ascended ground up and follows an impeccably natural line up a very impressive wall, where you would be hard pressed to guess that there was a route of such amiable grade. The price for this is a short section of A0 on bolts (no aid-gear needed). On the last pitch there used to be an arrow pointing to the right at the second bolt, now the arrow is gone and you have to figure out this by yourself. (Hint: the grade of the last pitch is likely not correct). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><i>Au-delà du délire</i> is an album by the progressive rock band <i>Ange</i> (1974)</span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Les Marches du Temps 7a/A0 (6c mandatory) 200 m</span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> Amazing climbing on good pockets. Very generously bolted. Rap in along the route (airy) and leave long slings on the first two bolts on the aid pitch lest you are 190 cm tall. If there is some chalk on the holds the route is very accessible for its grade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Oo3koxxEPQW0rFnIxLdOPRVUBu4Y9dIjdkkixw8yYJfzY1jloq-SdTn64_GqZG_qgYz0tmfkgvJj60rBdpl0EYQ3Ban0Km9IQco9z_E84yh4abA1zsu32x2Bm5rbqlFgI0lv6jN7Xh4/s1080/marches.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Oo3koxxEPQW0rFnIxLdOPRVUBu4Y9dIjdkkixw8yYJfzY1jloq-SdTn64_GqZG_qgYz0tmfkgvJj60rBdpl0EYQ3Ban0Km9IQco9z_E84yh4abA1zsu32x2Bm5rbqlFgI0lv6jN7Xh4/w400-h266/marches.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Erik N. and Julia on Marches du temps.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span class="Heading3Char" face="calibri, sans-serif" style="color: #1f3763; font-size: 16px;">La demande 6a (6a mandatory) 350 m</span><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"> [Update: In October 2022 this route lost almost all of the fixed protection except for the belays. It now requires a set of wires, some slings and a double set of camalots #0.4 to #3 with one #4. I kept the original description below, as I have not climbed it in its current state.]</span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">The first route on L'Escàles is still very much worth climbing. The route <i>requires</i> a small rack (cam 0.4 to 2, a set of medium-large wires and some slings – possible but not at all necessary doubling of the 0.4 and 0.5 cam). Every pitch has a few bolts, usually protecting the hard bits. The route offers a veritable smorgasbord of cracks from fingers via hands to back-foot chimneys, interspersed with normal face climbing. Do not get discouraged by the enormous amount of polish on the first pitch (with its slightly disgusting layback move on soapy holds) as seemingly a lot of people have been discouraged enough to rap off after that pitch. The rest is quite polished but never to the extend of the first pitch.</span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></h2><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">The line is impeccable and follows an ever widening crack in the middle of the highest wall. The last two pitches offer full-on chimney climbing for 80 m or so without much respite, so climbers who are not quick on 5.9+ chimneys (if you are not sure you are, you aint) should count on 8 hours or more if they are not confident putting in gear or good at climbing run-out terrain.</span></span></h2><div><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">As we were stuck behind a cosmically slow team from the dolomites and finally had the chance to pass them I went off route at pitch seven, despite having read the very explicit description on camp to camp to</span></span></h2><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><span face="system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, "Fira Sans", "Droid Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #363636; font-size: 14px;">Ne pas suivre la fissure au-dessus de relais (coin + sangles et piton avec maillon rapide), au contraire traverser à droite (flèche gravée dans le rocher), remonter un dièdre, franchir un surplomb par la gauche et traverser immédiatement à gauche dans la dalle pour arriver au relais</span></span></span></div></blockquote><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV"><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">guess who followed the crack above the belay... and did not see the arrow painted on the rock? In this way we got to do a nice off-width crux followed by 30 m of very hard to protect chimney climbing, totally free of polish! Including this little episode of faffing about we did the route in about five hours, having a lot of grade in hand on the styles the route has to offer.</span></span></h2><div><span lang="SV"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3DQR5XpGP9EaEstCjR4Ara6sCmORI2SWFcS2JneKAgf8apRnO7xk6TDQQYW5fTQzjw4eyyGhdekCNyyLR71KE7ATbK_fi4BgFEnECpoW9y2vyVegnyXkRBz78peehfoQOw411B7P4Iqj/s2048/IMG20211015170429.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3DQR5XpGP9EaEstCjR4Ara6sCmORI2SWFcS2JneKAgf8apRnO7xk6TDQQYW5fTQzjw4eyyGhdekCNyyLR71KE7ATbK_fi4BgFEnECpoW9y2vyVegnyXkRBz78peehfoQOw411B7P4Iqj/w300-h400/IMG20211015170429.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johan Hasslow leading the second to last pitch, stemming above the void</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="SV" style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">After having done the first ascent of the wall of L'Escàles, one of the first ascensionist proposed to his beloved, hence the name of the route.</span></div><div><span lang="SV"><br /></span></div><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Luna Bong</span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Airy rap along <i>Luna Bong</i>. Apart from the old classic Luna Bong </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">the most legendary route is probably the disgustingly named Caca Boudin. Even if Caca Boudin is said to be one of the very best routes in Verdon I have so far refused to climb it because of its name. Luna bong has suffered a lot from being used as one of the most popular raps in the canyon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<h3 style="break-after: avoid; color: #1f3763; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR">Les Extraterrestress 7a (6b+ mandatory) 160 m</span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The first two pitches have a bit crappy rock and could have a few more bolts. The third pitch also has average rock but has good and well-bolted climbing. From this point on the route has athletic climbing on impeccable rock all the way to the rim. With the exception of the second 7a pitch which is shared with, and usually aided by the ascensionist of, </span><i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifontitalic;">L'Éperon Sublime</span></i><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> (The Golden Spur) the route is completely free of polished rock. A forgotten classic!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dJba73_ZwPRnkhLfwKNDg_dh8Rr_Baggt0gjztGWMvtuxeBewugEyGBH3MfQ6GWnm-pavV_uT12Av1JiQc0Zbco3ia1ciNtq8U8LRQfA-aT2-0u1FwR2YOu-3Zfn1fdfrwOU0biwmMo/s1080/102410902_10156978627286603_3816550759754895790_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dJba73_ZwPRnkhLfwKNDg_dh8Rr_Baggt0gjztGWMvtuxeBewugEyGBH3MfQ6GWnm-pavV_uT12Av1JiQc0Zbco3ia1ciNtq8U8LRQfA-aT2-0u1FwR2YOu-3Zfn1fdfrwOU0biwmMo/w500-h375/102410902_10156978627286603_3816550759754895790_o.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Julia follows the first 7a-pitch on Les Extraterrestress</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV">Sector Parois Rouge<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The first half is really steep and almost always dry. Walk in along the access tunnels starting at the Samson colouir and arrange a lift back from the top, or leave a second car. It is also possible to descend by a combination of scrambling and rappelling. If so: </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">park at the first Belvédère on the Route des Crêtes and walk upstream following a wide but rapidly thinning path along the crest. Follow cairns in a big loop down and left to a beautiful grove of old pine trees. Walk </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">down </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">along the small sportclimbing sector <i>Valaute</i> in an ever steeper a gully until you find a rap station at the base of the huge prow of the route </span><i style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Les Naufragés</i><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">. Two raps (45 m and 30 m) lead to the base of the sector. Walk downstream the beach until you can take a small via ferrata up to a window in the tunnels, then walk the tunnels to the sector.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Kallistée 7b/A0 (6b+ morpho mandatory) 250 m </span><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">One of the better routes on the right bank? The first part is like climbing a few warm-ups on a random steep choss-pile of a sport climbing crag somewhere in Europe. A relaxed jaunt up juggy terrain, with some sika to boot. What follows is one pitch of aid on bolts through kitty litter and then four pitches of 7a+/7b on the best Verdon grey imaginable. Really sustained both in difficulty and in quality. The tenth pitch can be the best I have climbed in Verdon. Densely bolted with a solid glue-in every other meter. Short climbers can bring a skyhook to lower the mandatory grade to 6b+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfykwO-5i2sgM_ku1yJM7n5ztON-m2r_IubT40la0VfQvKDoeyYAzdzSH_6cwdF0gbsWbVadwbhmo7NpBIxdMUK9fWM7SKdAFwG_z38Am7Taa8BlVmjZ0SfCgqH1hzdfr0Sj1OYGBjGg/s1080/101969837_10156988339171603_3319166450775054005_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="1080" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfykwO-5i2sgM_ku1yJM7n5ztON-m2r_IubT40la0VfQvKDoeyYAzdzSH_6cwdF0gbsWbVadwbhmo7NpBIxdMUK9fWM7SKdAFwG_z38Am7Taa8BlVmjZ0SfCgqH1hzdfr0Sj1OYGBjGg/w500-h376/101969837_10156988339171603_3319166450775054005_o.jpg" width="500" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me on the seventh pitch of Kallistée</span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px; font-weight: normal;">Kallistée (</span>Καλλίστη) means “the<span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-weight: 400;"> most beautiful” and is an old Greek name for Corsica</span><span style="font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400;">.</span></span></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ceNg-Y9h_lJCVoLx7AKCCThkEhc8B4BVa2EOZqqsaauxX50_BmlTPUrFcUISm890o-5eiSRXeGlGI179QD2ArYthu7_mrvZTBy3zJ-NPJmBBlRKvMxgavbuICOUYD8DZ5JJkIJlVDXEwuYveKZubxtu_PLI4mmMFKpqnfBnd8DsqCBslzyNznXRe-A/s2040/leVent.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2040" data-original-width="1529" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ceNg-Y9h_lJCVoLx7AKCCThkEhc8B4BVa2EOZqqsaauxX50_BmlTPUrFcUISm890o-5eiSRXeGlGI179QD2ArYthu7_mrvZTBy3zJ-NPJmBBlRKvMxgavbuICOUYD8DZ5JJkIJlVDXEwuYveKZubxtu_PLI4mmMFKpqnfBnd8DsqCBslzyNznXRe-A/w300-h400/leVent.jpeg" title="Pitch 7 of Le vent...." width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Julia on pitch seven of Le vent souffle où il veut</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial; font-size: 16px;">Le vent souffle où il veut 7b/+ (6c mandatory) 220 m</span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"> The sister route to Kallistée with which it shares the first pitch. The climbing on the red rock on this is slightly worse, and the 7a pitch halfway up the overhang has an unpleasant vertical traverse. Very varied climbing with an amazing 6c pitch near the halfway point. The seventh (7b/b+) and eight (7a+/b) pitches are really good on perfect bullet blue limestone. Overall, the route felt slightly easier than Kallistée in free, but might be slightly harder for climbers who need to pull on a lot of draws at this level?</span></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpavvWO4u_DzTsECNmhsSHpnDD2O83CJ8o7DwrJwIQIlpB1_DGGi71KhVDmdtUmZSfFlh2S2wy8tB_4PLPXFiLhIHAu2Bb44mdqICLka5fmGRBRx1Hm8_IqyAwG9I_sMP41y9-_myAHwIfbcLYl4tNrT6dtAJpzl0Uf98eHT_QTByjWlHAN6PkozkDA/s2040/leVent0.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: applesystemuifont;"><img alt="Pitch ... hm.. 2? of Le vent soufle ou il veut" border="0" data-original-height="2040" data-original-width="1530" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpavvWO4u_DzTsECNmhsSHpnDD2O83CJ8o7DwrJwIQIlpB1_DGGi71KhVDmdtUmZSfFlh2S2wy8tB_4PLPXFiLhIHAu2Bb44mdqICLka5fmGRBRx1Hm8_IqyAwG9I_sMP41y9-_myAHwIfbcLYl4tNrT6dtAJpzl0Uf98eHT_QTByjWlHAN6PkozkDA/w300-h400/leVent0.jpeg" title="Julia on the red" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Julia on the red on Le vent...</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The wind bloweth where it listeth, and thou hearest the sound thereof, but canst not tell whence it cometh, and whither it goeth: so is every one that is born of the Spirit</span></p><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></p><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV">Baume aux Pigeons<o:p></o:p></span></h2><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">A very impressive wall with some aid routes and lots of free climbing potential. Not futuristic, because the future is now. For the approach: either the tunnel at colouir Samson then out via the last window (sign posted) and down the ferrata to the beach which is followed upstreams to the route or down from the first Belvédère as described above for Parois Rouge.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF8XP-9oJ2T5EvVju7UP3CMLsxUsurc6L-yGChXCeZ6whM_cE1KVJwh_RRnaRtrry_9SfUNfAc4_NpzhPz8HD2b0nSJeG_lY_NQ_MuY8W9SImMQx2x4j9WiIRbFgP8HH4QrPWAnD2CLnw/s1080/shipwrecked-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnF8XP-9oJ2T5EvVju7UP3CMLsxUsurc6L-yGChXCeZ6whM_cE1KVJwh_RRnaRtrry_9SfUNfAc4_NpzhPz8HD2b0nSJeG_lY_NQ_MuY8W9SImMQx2x4j9WiIRbFgP8HH4QrPWAnD2CLnw/w300-h400/shipwrecked-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex on pitch 4 of Les Naufragés<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial;">Dame Cookie 8a+ (6c mandatory) 120 m + 60 m scrambling </span><b style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: Times;">Very modern route up the middle of the imposing Baume aux Pigeons. Makes up in the quality of climbing for what it perhaps lacks in line. The first pitch is OK I guess, and the long easy dihedral that follows is sub-par, but what follows is amazing modern climbing on positive holds. Especially the third pitch (8a) and the fifth pitch (8a+) has some really high quality climbing on it. For teams punching above their level, I think that it would be a good idea to break the fifth pitch in two as the leader is out-of-sight and out-of-hearing on the crux bulge.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqP3Fd71oWAXIw3rzhKJe158QSlsobRtQNi_jEA3CxQK4ufBR75spaiibpb5ckTui9uJ9OSAT6PYqZFdORzUxSNas9gqzqlS0OXTaKe-KHQuIMmAK6J3Vbl3c0wIRkJmkiZMeI_F1Ycgi/s2048/IMG20210917141633.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqP3Fd71oWAXIw3rzhKJe158QSlsobRtQNi_jEA3CxQK4ufBR75spaiibpb5ckTui9uJ9OSAT6PYqZFdORzUxSNas9gqzqlS0OXTaKe-KHQuIMmAK6J3Vbl3c0wIRkJmkiZMeI_F1Ycgi/w400-h300/IMG20210917141633.jpeg" title="Alex follows the third pitch" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex follows the third pitch of Dame Cookie</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;">The last pitch has one move (protected by a bolt) just above the belay followed by 55 m of steep bush-whacking through a near vertical dense forest making it complicated to access the route from above. As the route has a gazzilion bolts it is very easy to work for someone who finds a motivated belayer. But I do think that the route should be possible to onsight or do very quickly from the ground for anyone capable of onsighting 8a on the single pitch crags, as this route was put up with a <i>very</i> modern sensibility towards grades. In fact, I would be more impressed by teams onsighting the neighbouring Les Naufragés (a route with a hard to read crux with less modern style of climbing and way less modern application of free climbing grades).</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;">Dame Cookie was named in honour of a gentle soul who brought the first ascensionist cookies when they went climbing.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial;">Les Naufragés 7c (7a mandatory) 200 m </span><b style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b>Another route I heartily recommend without having actually climbed it. I have only done the last three pitches (6b, 7b+, 7c) on a “half restday”, electing to skip the first two somewhat runout pitches to save energy for a bigger objective the following day. Anyway. The route is called “The Shipwrecked”, presumably because it goes up this enormous prow starting from a small “beach”. The 7b+ was well tricky and the 7c pitch that follows is likely to be very difficult for its grade. Neither me nor Alex did all the moves. <i>Be aware that the line in the guidebook does not correspond to the actual route</i> for the first two pitches: the first pitch starts on the same boulder as <i>Dame Cookie</i> and what is indicated as the second belay does not exist, rather belay from the chain of the first rappel anchor.</div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtAA9itP0cIgq2CIDWkCvoX6FidAF1eAUX_UvMoQbQX-53_rpZkYu0C9rEIp9adzYnOHEWoWxzh-IomMsspEt_hTEgE-BrykPeqjKS-_mXYaACfIxW3szproDLKARVzs2cXs5m23OXFO4/s2048/118995724_348919433145520_6153264354426646843_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtAA9itP0cIgq2CIDWkCvoX6FidAF1eAUX_UvMoQbQX-53_rpZkYu0C9rEIp9adzYnOHEWoWxzh-IomMsspEt_hTEgE-BrykPeqjKS-_mXYaACfIxW3szproDLKARVzs2cXs5m23OXFO4/w375-h500/118995724_348919433145520_6153264354426646843_n.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That is us on Les Naufragés. Photo taken by Manu from the top of Ayahuasca</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><p style="margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><br /></p><h2 style="break-after: avoid; color: #2f5496; font-family: "calibri light", sans-serif; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: normal; margin: 2pt 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV">Le Duc<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">On the left bank of the Verdon river.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Overall a sector with more generous grades in a style of climbing more familiar to the contemporary sport climber. Plenty of tufas, good holds and steep sections and often good for the morale after having struggled on the vertical walls of the right bank. Le Duc is north facing and often wet and most routes can only be done after a period of dry weather. The top part of the wall is in the sun in the afternoon, so start early or climb fast if you climb in the summer.</span></div><p style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Park at the tunnels (Tunnel du Baou at Colouir Samson) walk to the entrance to the tunnels and take the fixed Tyrolean traverse across the river as for sector Hulk. The best descent from the top is the rappel route on climber's right of Série Limitée. On the first rap: do not rap all the way to the dead tree with the slings (58m) but stop at the chains in the cave (45 m), as one day the tree will go and also it increase the risk of getting stuck ropes. The second rap is to the next set of chains from which you can skip the next set of chains if you have 2x60 m rope. I hate this rap as it is not steep but full of trees and bushes. In strong wind: consider walking down on the back (look up the approach to <i>Tom et Je Ris</i>)</span></p>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Série Limitée 6c+ (6b mandatory) 300 m </span><b><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Modern classic and when it is dry it is perhaps the most popular route in Verdon. At least, it is the only route I have ever waited in line to do. Gets into the sun at 2PM or so, so it is not optimal to be stuck behind a slow team. Get up early. It is the right route starting on the right side of the gigantic dihedral, and gets better and better the higher up you get. The top pitches are very good indeed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj72KY5ziBs22vf-80sxvNXTa8loDW6P7h-9OhKHZh1LiPpYY2MtfeTnZDeMfW94GfOYLDldxA9kMtRbEsiwrUjftyAtwIqaN-8q0249XiSBx3v5ZSk5OK8EdwVmBsicdukEi-eEntoKI/s1024/13320584_10153552949361603_184734267080602455_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj72KY5ziBs22vf-80sxvNXTa8loDW6P7h-9OhKHZh1LiPpYY2MtfeTnZDeMfW94GfOYLDldxA9kMtRbEsiwrUjftyAtwIqaN-8q0249XiSBx3v5ZSk5OK8EdwVmBsicdukEi-eEntoKI/w400-h266/13320584_10153552949361603_184734267080602455_o.jpg" title="Näst sista replängden på serié limitée." width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The second to last pitch of Serié Limitée</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span>
<span class="Heading3Char" style="color: #1f3763; font-family: arial; font-size: 16px;">Ayahuasca 7c (7a/+ mandatory?) 300 m</span><b style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 16px;">Amazing combination of contemporary tufa climbing and old school crimping on goutte-d'eaus. Start four meter to the left of Série Limitée. A great alternative to Alix if you think 7b is a bit on the easy side. The first pitch is a bit meh, and the eight is a filthy boulder problem (7a+ mandatory?) but the rest is out of this world: two great 7c pitches on tufas, three amazing vertical crimping pitches (2nd, 4th and 9th) and one cool steep pitch. This route was bolted ground up and follows an impeccably logical line. The bolting is great if a touch run out on the easy parts. If the next bolt is very far, rest assure that the climbing is easy.</span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxMatd8RX06byxgqXrlxTeGWqOtXGMJTVCLNFKQaMCcg6flt_OAtlR3QIe8gZ-v3nGr5XGTonTNYHF_5ESJAg2Kyf7-ihqTpZOQaHR9ArBbumnRWYMKHBSnIvubFS4eTR1sZo0OpON1VX/s1080/verdon-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxMatd8RX06byxgqXrlxTeGWqOtXGMJTVCLNFKQaMCcg6flt_OAtlR3QIe8gZ-v3nGr5XGTonTNYHF_5ESJAg2Kyf7-ihqTpZOQaHR9ArBbumnRWYMKHBSnIvubFS4eTR1sZo0OpON1VX/w375-h500/verdon-2.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex on pitch 2 of Ayahuasca</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkITefggaKKIV99_d9ljbFgSXI8wX9VaZypfauAiX0TMJ0HOYRYfFMaUreBaJabxxS7EWB7Te9S4xe6UrdS0SzNz7rnvtbZc22UgL-wbjDTDrBcZzVK1qTo49pu6WINhWrijN1VhmvitBo/s1080/verdon-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkITefggaKKIV99_d9ljbFgSXI8wX9VaZypfauAiX0TMJ0HOYRYfFMaUreBaJabxxS7EWB7Te9S4xe6UrdS0SzNz7rnvtbZc22UgL-wbjDTDrBcZzVK1qTo49pu6WINhWrijN1VhmvitBo/s1080/verdon-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">I feel that it is not out of place to warn about the eight pitch. My climbing partner had onsighted all pitches up to this point, and I had freed everything (I redpointed the 3rd pitch after a fall at the fourth bolt), but neither of us could even do the crux move. I chatted a bit with a strong french team that did it the day before and they also did everything onsight and had to pull on draws for the 8th. In fact, even Bruno Clement had to give it a few goes before figuring it out! You get the point. If you are at your limit at 7b+ after having five pitches of 7a-7c climbing, you might consider bringing a skyhook?</span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">We stuffed two kneepads in the haulbag for the leader for the tufa pitches. On pitch 3 they were of no use, but on the sixth pitch they were very useful. If you are not an absolute monster you haul a bag anyway.<br /></span><div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkITefggaKKIV99_d9ljbFgSXI8wX9VaZypfauAiX0TMJ0HOYRYfFMaUreBaJabxxS7EWB7Te9S4xe6UrdS0SzNz7rnvtbZc22UgL-wbjDTDrBcZzVK1qTo49pu6WINhWrijN1VhmvitBo/w375-h500/verdon-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="375" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex on pitch 3 of Ayahuasca<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Ayahuasca is a psychotropic used largely to aid spiritual practice</span></div><div><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span><div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span class="Heading3Char" face="" style="color: #1f3763;">Alix, Punk de Vergons 7b (6c mandatory) 300 m</span><b><span style="font-family: applesystemuifontbold;"> </span></b><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Every pitch except the first 5c pitch (which can be avoided by walking up the slabs on the left to the belay below the second pitch) would be a three star route on any sport climbing crag. Steep and athletic climbing on mostly good holds. Top ten of all bolted multipitch routes I've done and surely a world heritage route.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Vergons is a small village between Verdon and Annot.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiO9UjnzFttiNhmV9CNRNlDnXhdSlsOVLooq-ucLfy07fOQ96nM6P1ROQDPIfRaYBN39-3PV9wO1KFgxTQHGizUYFJyFuCpgL92zRy67QvBt0W5oWkJBJit7fuFrWFq5RdcZxUm3qTqaw/s640/alix.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiO9UjnzFttiNhmV9CNRNlDnXhdSlsOVLooq-ucLfy07fOQ96nM6P1ROQDPIfRaYBN39-3PV9wO1KFgxTQHGizUYFJyFuCpgL92zRy67QvBt0W5oWkJBJit7fuFrWFq5RdcZxUm3qTqaw/w400-h400/alix.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Me pretty pumped on the second 7b pitch of Alix... Photo: Erik Massih.<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span face="" style="color: #1f3763;">All routes in approximate order of difficulty</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="SV" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The max grade or the mandatory grade is not everything. Here is a list of all routes recommended above in an approximative order of difficulty. The ‘difficulty’ I am referring to is how difficult it is to get to the top with a bunch of quickdraws, good spirits and a willingness to take a couple of falls or rest points (no tricks with skyhooks or wires).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Afin que Nul ne Meure<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Ticket Danger last 5 pitches<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rivière d'Argent<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Réves de Fer<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">l'Ange en Décomposition<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Phœbus<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Série Limitée<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Barbapoupon<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Double Fond</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Les Caquous</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Golem</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">La demande* </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Ticket Danger including first two pitches<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Hellfest<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Prise de Cent<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Les Marches du Temps<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Extraterrestress<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Au-delà du délire</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rideaux de Gwendal <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Surveiller et Punir<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Il Giocchi di Prestigio<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Rideaux-Pichenibul-Ctuluh<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Démon<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Le vent souffle où il veut</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Alix, Punk de Vergons<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Kallistée<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Dame Cookie†</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">La Fête des Nerfs<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Les Naufragés</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="FR" style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">The Mégafoot triology</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;">Ayahuesca</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Keep in mind that I have climbed these over a period of seven years, in variable shape, so do not take my graded list as the gospel.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">* </span><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">Depending on how good you are on chimneys this could go up or down the list quite a bit.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: applesystemuifont;">† I am very unsure where to put this. Even if this is objectively speaking a lot harder than Fete des nerfs, it may not be so for most. Just please, for the love of God, do not go up this with a sky-hook.</span></div><b></b></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-79969642899708149092020-08-18T11:38:00.006+02:002020-08-19T10:30:45.788+02:00Zauberberg 7a, Parois de Gramusset<p>Zauberberg is a Piola route on Parois de Gramusset near Annecy in the French alps. Excellent rock, and airy climbing that avoids the ledges. South east facing, so sun in the afternoon. The route tops out at about 2600 masl, so even in August it was better to climb in the sun.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7zayAgiaBGwmdC6_3ExkX_BRp6FK86Wwm4RJ31lq2BJcx4lmwmujaTrQa_6gCWS-7GupEj52_qF80cO67_UXuPssYXsorz4X2CGH6eWuwS3AbRhMrn8CFHorPhKNUkvafEVpKD5C4PKk/s1080/zauberberg-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1080" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7zayAgiaBGwmdC6_3ExkX_BRp6FK86Wwm4RJ31lq2BJcx4lmwmujaTrQa_6gCWS-7GupEj52_qF80cO67_UXuPssYXsorz4X2CGH6eWuwS3AbRhMrn8CFHorPhKNUkvafEVpKD5C4PKk/w410-h274/zauberberg-1.jpg" width="410" /></a></div><p>Only five pitches, we'll do that quickly, we said... 🐢🐢😂. After the approach from Col des Annes, which took almost 2 hours, we decided to climb the first pitch of <i>Sens Unik</i> [sic] to warm up. That worked ok, but the penultimate bolt on Sens Unik's first pitch is a retarded place for climbers shorter than 165 cm (too far to the right).</p><p>P1 7a. Well tricky.</p><p>P2 7a. “Attention chute possible et pas conseillée au niveau du deuxième point” (Warning, fall possible and inadvisable at the second bolt) the description on camptocamp read... I had a hard time finding a good hold to clip the second bolt, and afterwards my head was shot and it took me forever to finish the pitch.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfFIBN-yoT3wcPMSGMM74PmPydebM6nciminE-lbmsHUyISkD5Ay1FzRn-WArFXVL-P8WSN2ZGdAxNYyh_wpzW1bZLigwG9kjSTwm0m_lU-4E9xY-ma4HyZFtwKZmgFKMzf4rCt8So97e/s1080/zauberberg-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="864" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfFIBN-yoT3wcPMSGMM74PmPydebM6nciminE-lbmsHUyISkD5Ay1FzRn-WArFXVL-P8WSN2ZGdAxNYyh_wpzW1bZLigwG9kjSTwm0m_lU-4E9xY-ma4HyZFtwKZmgFKMzf4rCt8So97e/s640/zauberberg-3.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia seconding P2, which she thought was the easiest pitch of the route.</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />Very happy that Julia took over the leading responsibility for the third and forth pitch.</p><p>P3 6c+/7a. Thin at the start. Julia cruised this section, but I was at the limit. Then steep athletic climbing.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKPmyVrxrun7-d0IRXLt-3FL79ixS7vFDoG_TadR9vNCmE-zh8dF30D6XWk68TP9_S1CG5Wf_hGXDSQaABh_zfM0Zd2j78Q8MXeKqd6elutdTODRqTVZSZdAG1UtDVinAfwxWhr887MpV/s1080/zauberberg-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKPmyVrxrun7-d0IRXLt-3FL79ixS7vFDoG_TadR9vNCmE-zh8dF30D6XWk68TP9_S1CG5Wf_hGXDSQaABh_zfM0Zd2j78Q8MXeKqd6elutdTODRqTVZSZdAG1UtDVinAfwxWhr887MpV/s640/zauberberg-4.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia leading...</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLSfiuOgeiBlWQBq8tSatPN_weY8O2EeOS_uiX1aPTjPC28wMJhoxxxjw8SIeRY9SaItXu42ZvaL9V0M5RpdkObfdrVisZf2VGATqtRcpVhMn2VRT23Fqj7IJRzyXTbwxpATnzoy8w3ki/s1080/zauberberg-me-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="1080" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLSfiuOgeiBlWQBq8tSatPN_weY8O2EeOS_uiX1aPTjPC28wMJhoxxxjw8SIeRY9SaItXu42ZvaL9V0M5RpdkObfdrVisZf2VGATqtRcpVhMn2VRT23Fqj7IJRzyXTbwxpATnzoy8w3ki/s640/zauberberg-me-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and me following P3.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><p><br /></p>
<p>P4 6c at least surely? Steeper still!</p><p>P5 7a. Oh my! Do not stop to think, just do it.</p><p>Overall, I am well proud of having onsighted P2 & P5 and flashed the rest seconding. The route felt a lot harder than it looks on paper.</p><p>We rapped the route clipping a few bolts on the steep/traversing parts. There were quick links on all belays and old slings between the bolts. We should have brought an adjustable spanner and a few new quick links as two of them were in a bad state. Particularly the quick link on the second belay.</p><p>Gear: 11 draws. It should be OK to haul, if needed. We just clipped a small water bottle to the harness.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPoAtGVeb-3_Q0Z3mqxQdbtoWTOLqPA_wj7D75ZsYabCg2S1O3L__RTyX1kctf40WSCJrFzrUnf12hHapC8RSmZSA4_GhjuSLFdS2teXEgT9LcU1_IHtWuK0lIlMa9quSEoCqnM4hSE2lM/s1080/zauberberg-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1080" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPoAtGVeb-3_Q0Z3mqxQdbtoWTOLqPA_wj7D75ZsYabCg2S1O3L__RTyX1kctf40WSCJrFzrUnf12hHapC8RSmZSA4_GhjuSLFdS2teXEgT9LcU1_IHtWuK0lIlMa9quSEoCqnM4hSE2lM/s640/zauberberg-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homeward bound....<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsF6w_DKsqbeCyh2T7XXWgI-DWj0x-d5Ccr3JhSjEvMema2qJT4dprv8tAlZdtwfLnzxK_fuCa7WOEmA-Cs7uPRr1PZ_bjc3I5kKxSTVn8yDfvj96akDXDAADU1pgofIgWit0ndTeHBjD/s1080/zauberberg-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1080" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsF6w_DKsqbeCyh2T7XXWgI-DWj0x-d5Ccr3JhSjEvMema2qJT4dprv8tAlZdtwfLnzxK_fuCa7WOEmA-Cs7uPRr1PZ_bjc3I5kKxSTVn8yDfvj96akDXDAADU1pgofIgWit0ndTeHBjD/w512-h342/zauberberg-5.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75-Af-ZuypYdaP0NyoFo3uhjKz_955loSB_kYcoR97Lg-FA2Bu6ZVYIYwP99riIpkxCMVadB8-IplwxYt7YyBpxZO4k_yCexzKEgRbloQ2P7UybsdBd05qRL69HT0uz5uOFMlcpr8qzkv/s1080/zauberberg-7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="864" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg75-Af-ZuypYdaP0NyoFo3uhjKz_955loSB_kYcoR97Lg-FA2Bu6ZVYIYwP99riIpkxCMVadB8-IplwxYt7YyBpxZO4k_yCexzKEgRbloQ2P7UybsdBd05qRL69HT0uz5uOFMlcpr8qzkv/s640/zauberberg-7.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCePhSI0oojrtwBOzFk4ThFut7-V4fidj6l11qbNioi533jjogxR0iEoQHeICll59QN1BNquB8EOywOFKl5_Zz6tcxJ2ktf9ND-tMU2-hQpeho1HTfsxURCaB7MG-O197Lv2JPmBE9QO-p/s1080/zauberberg-8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="721" height="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCePhSI0oojrtwBOzFk4ThFut7-V4fidj6l11qbNioi533jjogxR0iEoQHeICll59QN1BNquB8EOywOFKl5_Zz6tcxJ2ktf9ND-tMU2-hQpeho1HTfsxURCaB7MG-O197Lv2JPmBE9QO-p/w534-h800/zauberberg-8.jpg" width="534" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
Der Zauberberg (The magic mountain) is a novel by Thomas Mann.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-59680418465770506132020-08-17T21:58:00.013+02:002020-08-20T10:53:52.657+02:00Patent Ochsner, Pfaffenhut, Wendenstöcke, ED- 7a>6cWhile sightseeing in Milan, I saw that the weather looked great in Wendenstöcke and acceptable in Tre Cime. J. has already done Comici so was not so interested in the North face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo but I was, however, unreasonably psyched on doing the Hasse-Brandler direttissima, and forced a 7 hour trip by car to the parking at the Auronzo refuge. By 11 pm we had sorted gear and thrown out the sleeping bags on the ground. Naïvely, I set the alarm for 5 am, so that by 6 am, when we were at the base of the route, there were already a German team on the route with a Catalan team waiting on the ground.<div><br /></div><div>I had a very bad feeling about the first team as both leader and follower had rucksacks. (Preparing for benightment = making absolutely sure benightment happens). The first team took nearly three hours to climb the first two pitches of a seventeen pitch route, which also happens to be more-or-less the two easiest pitches on the entire three hundred meter wide North face. By 9 o'clock we decided to leave the teams in front of us to their sure fate (benightment or bailing) and bailed ourselves without having done a single move.</div><div><br /></div><div>After another seven hours in the car we were at the parking below the fabled Wendenalp in Switzerland. Because of a reasonable forecast so were quite a few teams. From the selection in <a href="http://unevieagrimper.blogspot.com/2011/04/parois-de-legende.html">Parois de Légende</a> Caminando, Sternschnuppe and Patent Ochsner looked like perfectly sensible options. Caminando being on the long side after two nights of rough sleeping and Sternschnuppe a bit on the runout side we opted for Patent Ochsner on the Pfaffenhut.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNXAT3-rdKP0UTU8n_UyS9qdA_7-XVrm23pa1MD78t3TRYfkESPflxNthnjg9EMb7fcIMTwxzKOFyy3jcqWtE5dvoL3rDN8qqX45HCkQC24wADLKd8DXp4JK8HH0J97xXtSv6IJ_6EY6v0/s1080/patentOschner-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="721" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNXAT3-rdKP0UTU8n_UyS9qdA_7-XVrm23pa1MD78t3TRYfkESPflxNthnjg9EMb7fcIMTwxzKOFyy3jcqWtE5dvoL3rDN8qqX45HCkQC24wADLKd8DXp4JK8HH0J97xXtSv6IJ_6EY6v0/s640/patentOschner-1.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patent Ochsner goes up smack in the middle of Pfaffenhut</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><i>Patent Ochsner is an absolutely amazing route. Top ten, surely</i>. Stellar rock with perfect holds: like stacking eight of Céüse's better routes on top of each other, but with unpolished rock and in an even more beautiful setting above a small cattle far in a peaceful alpine valley.</div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Pitch notes</h2>
P1 6b. The route is easily identified by a sling at waist hight at the start and the trashcan lid on the second bolt with “Patent Ochsner” stamped on it. Scary pitch, maybe mostly because we're unskilled at climbing water runnels. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFUiTp0Lf2KsN5-6ToNxpKlEtGY3-kNIo0NlDb-9OGDYD6Rhk3EOM8cy45y29qvVn-06jcdfcGi47KWmtpAdqA8Nlr6Pzv0AYRWBNUqjdEK-T4uj8UrmubTtCyy-a2dqq2Tdruubs14_M/s820/Screenshot+2020-08-17+at+19.46.53.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="820" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFUiTp0Lf2KsN5-6ToNxpKlEtGY3-kNIo0NlDb-9OGDYD6Rhk3EOM8cy45y29qvVn-06jcdfcGi47KWmtpAdqA8Nlr6Pzv0AYRWBNUqjdEK-T4uj8UrmubTtCyy-a2dqq2Tdruubs14_M/w200-h189/Screenshot+2020-08-17+at+19.46.53.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lid on the second bolt. <a href="https://www.obsig.ch/galerie/felsklettern/13-11-05-wenden-patent-ochsner/">Pictured borrowed from here</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTI-mGH6BUe8UgwS1SraYW3xG7ttqlMmNyb-Arc99Vqtqu7u_WOr1ipL0GN84ssm8dzy_dSZgN0H8BBMTFPQar18QmDBgq3MnzlaIsJrMUBvOw1rgFBfVLT8ym0GlqSKKY9widXRv4Xal/s1080/patentOschner-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="864" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghTI-mGH6BUe8UgwS1SraYW3xG7ttqlMmNyb-Arc99Vqtqu7u_WOr1ipL0GN84ssm8dzy_dSZgN0H8BBMTFPQar18QmDBgq3MnzlaIsJrMUBvOw1rgFBfVLT8ym0GlqSKKY9widXRv4Xal/s640/patentOschner-2.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia past the water runnels on pitch 1, up to normal climbing.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /><div>P2 6c+ I remember nothing of this pitch, so I assume it was not demanding.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnIsUOP6yCZOxo2KIwpGILEmLNa18e3BNMobMB6JB5UGoyubtwNU-S9BYvAAauoYLXyR8H51HoDsOtWASjJzFbBK_jMY5ZQyb1pFlCphjf2a9lMDe39s6NW3TSspH8nhR6hWdRMOYr6MIX/s1080/patentOschner-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnIsUOP6yCZOxo2KIwpGILEmLNa18e3BNMobMB6JB5UGoyubtwNU-S9BYvAAauoYLXyR8H51HoDsOtWASjJzFbBK_jMY5ZQyb1pFlCphjf2a9lMDe39s6NW3TSspH8nhR6hWdRMOYr6MIX/w400-h300/patentOschner-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the second belay.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /></div><div>P3 5b After the first sling Julia went up right in the dihedral (very easy) then to the belay without any intermediate points. There is a bolt straight above the first sling forcing a slightly harder pitch on better rock. Whatever. Very comfortable belay. </div><div><br /></div><div>P4 7a. From the belay, slightly to the right and up to the first bolt (far, pretty easy - around 6a) then with increasing difficulties to a crux at the roof. Then easier climbing to the comfortable belay. </div><div><br /></div><div>P5 6c. Magic! Slightly overhanging start, then vertical climbing on the best limestone imaginable. Belay in a small cave to the right. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMU74O682rbPHzdwABy3CrL7REfmBicxRer9XSczk2KUC3KhMySyOBUNl8l3vpEOBCFTq42K0p3MuMaGpw1oyidgfxQf_ZglavjuEm_5RHm1jnaBYcujZTAxHE3rKfoJD_nbkIm33eoO2/s1080/patentOschner-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMU74O682rbPHzdwABy3CrL7REfmBicxRer9XSczk2KUC3KhMySyOBUNl8l3vpEOBCFTq42K0p3MuMaGpw1oyidgfxQf_ZglavjuEm_5RHm1jnaBYcujZTAxHE3rKfoJD_nbkIm33eoO2/w512-h384/patentOschner-4.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #262626; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">Patent Ochsner, pitch 5. The best 6c pitch I have ever climbed? Maybe.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FXGw_sP895GPPAU7e8d7qrpt1prurTlqXH5vpA7tcdjrU6-jmekDO64rIqn0T7LYgPs9ldg54JW1sqQeogMxJA-mjv-KCKewmNOu8MnjrDjCNEsLMPhnxFfGog94SVLKq0hF0SscRw8K/s1080/patentOchnerMe-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="1080" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FXGw_sP895GPPAU7e8d7qrpt1prurTlqXH5vpA7tcdjrU6-jmekDO64rIqn0T7LYgPs9ldg54JW1sqQeogMxJA-mjv-KCKewmNOu8MnjrDjCNEsLMPhnxFfGog94SVLKq0hF0SscRw8K/w410-h286/patentOchnerMe-1.jpg" width="410" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the fifth belay<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>P6 7a. Start with a somewhat demanding and exciting traverse back out to the left, then three bolts of technical climbing on very small crimps indeed. Be you still, trembling heart, and all will be fine. Then slightly easier to the top of the pitch. Took more effort than usual for the grade.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjANX5LDvzNb9HjRdIB0pxmK6bPyR_SqagomgxYkS7b5Z9O49FD1_rLqyft0O7TOnB3sF9NDbhzvqOU1GJXpv5-mSNFyycMLzVuS6C4DwEqPIft6onbA65LjZ03hp-_HoTG78UoQ6AE9C_l/s1080/patentOschner-5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjANX5LDvzNb9HjRdIB0pxmK6bPyR_SqagomgxYkS7b5Z9O49FD1_rLqyft0O7TOnB3sF9NDbhzvqOU1GJXpv5-mSNFyycMLzVuS6C4DwEqPIft6onbA65LjZ03hp-_HoTG78UoQ6AE9C_l/w300-h400/patentOschner-5.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 6.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>P7 6c+ Keep something in reserve for this pitch: it is somewhat tricky to find the easiest way up the steep part. I ended up doing some big slaps, and my second did not find a better way either. A sandbag, surely? </div><div><br /></div><div>P8 6a+ Another steep pitch, overhangs a few meters on mostly good crimps. The route book should be on the belay but the box was empty.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2UAieKcV5Vpe8FrcdK4hmB2mqA3mztFv132_8XOogZsfC3RVDnVkszkQpFEBHobpOLmjfOpklSuqQUNt7nJDsske3ndwvIv8jsSlTvj0l6Vh0mOVgahbpbl9AGlic3VBVdgpmvEhF0XI/s1080/patentOschner-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2UAieKcV5Vpe8FrcdK4hmB2mqA3mztFv132_8XOogZsfC3RVDnVkszkQpFEBHobpOLmjfOpklSuqQUNt7nJDsske3ndwvIv8jsSlTvj0l6Vh0mOVgahbpbl9AGlic3VBVdgpmvEhF0XI/w512-h384/patentOschner-6.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There was a fast German team on our heals all day, i.e. we held them up pretty badly. But they were super chill, so it was cool</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /></div><div>P9-P12 A traversing 3a pitch followed by three more pitches at around 6a up Sternschnuppe</div><div><br /></div><div>Descent:
We were told that the rest (P9-P12) is a bit nondescript, pretty wet and that the cable down to the second rap of the standard descent was missing (making it necessary to rap down Stars away) so we rapped the route from here. Not ideal. With 2x60m it should be possible to rap directly down to R6. I didn't have the cojones to try as I wasn't absolutely sure that the belay was were I thought it was (it was). Rapping from R7 to R6 involves quite a bit of traversing. Rapping from R6 to R5 or R4 requires clipping the top two bolts (steeply traversing, some freeclimbing required to reach the bolts, big pendeldums for the second on the rappel). With 2x60m you reach the R4 from R6 (the Germans did this). From R5 you easily reach R3, and from R3 you reach the ground with a metre to spare. (All this assumes 2x60 m rope)</div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>With 2x60 m rope, rapping down <i>Transoceane</i> seems like a nice option.</div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Practical stuff</h2><h3 style="text-align: left;">Guide book/web sites</h3><div>The guide book <a href="https://shop.vertical-life.info/en/switzerland-extreme-east-sport-and-multi-pitch-climbing-guidebook">Schweiz Extreme Ost</a> covers Wenden and other areas in Central/Eastern Switzerland. The Extreme West covers Rätikon and other areas in western Switzerland. There are also Plaisir Ost/West for easier areas.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you can read German, Marcel Dettling's blog has a lot of very useful info. <a href="https://mdettling.blogspot.com/p/fels.html">Start here</a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/142877/fr/wendenalp-">Camp to camp has some coverage</a> (in French), but less than in more classical French destinations.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Gear etc.</h3><div>We had eleven draws and one green camalot (#0.75) and wires 4-8 as recommended in the guidebook. Only ever used the draws, the gear might be needed for pitch 9-12, but if you manage to place any of those on the first eight pitches: well done you.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hauling was easy.</div><div><br /></div><div>The route is well protected by bolts. On the easiest parts of the routes the distances between the bolts are significant. The rock is bomber, and has high friction, so falls on easy terrain are very unlikely for solid climbers. The principal leader should be able to lead 6c obligatory without problems, and it is a good idea to have some solid margin on 7a as well. For pitches 1, 3, 5 and 8 being able to climb 6b obligatory suffices.</div><div><br /></div><div>The treads were generally in excellent condition as of August 2020. The bolts as well.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LEW9gq7KX59bmJOLUT6ZJiACOftwMnnVB2clSziTlvpYFUrq41MoApq-wIyuhyWLuEqeLsIYwmVDcbdwH_279VOMY0CIfQFWRLuvPzMI_BDFJv7NE62_nUk2lKHytStv3aNUi7UPRqrv/s1080/thread-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LEW9gq7KX59bmJOLUT6ZJiACOftwMnnVB2clSziTlvpYFUrq41MoApq-wIyuhyWLuEqeLsIYwmVDcbdwH_279VOMY0CIfQFWRLuvPzMI_BDFJv7NE62_nUk2lKHytStv3aNUi7UPRqrv/w328-h328/thread-1.jpg" width="328" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A thread in worse condition. Found on the ground on the approach... Psyche!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Approach</h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwsyML3QNU7kuq2svoVpAqn_rcuimnaJhuw-rZImgi5ZRxrtCYHAeoGLcDsmyaMSia3rrhdm-dHydDhBSObQVOK3ggWV58-SyUHcwke5CCVEooUY-ehgpciu0BzjAgn20DiFAPtX3Y_Mx/s1080/pfaffenH-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1080" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwsyML3QNU7kuq2svoVpAqn_rcuimnaJhuw-rZImgi5ZRxrtCYHAeoGLcDsmyaMSia3rrhdm-dHydDhBSObQVOK3ggWV58-SyUHcwke5CCVEooUY-ehgpciu0BzjAgn20DiFAPtX3Y_Mx/w512-h342/pfaffenH-1.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach from the parking</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
The guide book gave 1 h 40 min. We are less than average hikers, but fairly decent on steep grass and required 1 h 41 min. From a pure fitness perspective, the approach should take about 80% longer than the normal approach to Céüse. <div><br /></div><div>From the parking take an ill-defined path on the east (or left, facing towards he crag) of the creek. The path quickly becomes well trodden as you approach the first small grassy knoll, where it leads right towards the second knoll (big cairn on top of the knoll) were it splits. Take the left fork and continue up on switchbacks, then left just below the cliff band and up in the notch. Keep high below the second cliff band. When we were there there was a running stream were we filled up water along the cliff band. Cross the steep scree (a bit exposed) and find cairns leading up the steep grassy slope on switch backs. Very little scrambling, I used the hands a handful of times at most.
</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Getting there</h3>Gadmen > Obermaad > Small concrete access road, first road on the mountain (left) side after the campsite to Wendenalp (cattle farm). Park on the large parking before the cattle farm.
<br />
<br />
Coordinates for the parking: North 46°44'58", East: 008°23'10" (46.749539, 8.386166)<div><div><br /><div>For ten Swiss francs you can access the road and are allowed to park for 24 hours. For twenty you can stay a week. The parking meter where the road starts only accepts 5-CHF coins. The cattle farmer regularly checks the parking tickets!<div><br /></div><div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Staying there</h3><div>The camping in Obermaad, ten minutes from the parking is very affordable for being in Switzerland. <a href="https://www.camping-gadmen.ch/camping/">https://www.camping-gadmen.ch/camping/</a></div><div><br /></div><div>It is illegal to camp at the parking. Many do, either in vans or by putting up a small tent for the night only. Needless to say, squatting would be pretty catastrophic. If you break the law, do be discrete about it.</div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">More useful information</h3><div>A descent in rain should be well epic. Count on rock fall, water falls and walking down unstable grassy steep slopes. Do not put yourself in a position where you would have to do this. I don't particularly think you can count on helicopter rescue either as it is often foggy.</div><div><br /></div><div>Wine bottles that are sealed at sea level and left in a car in hot weather at high altitude can achieve such a high pressure differential that the cork spontaneously pops, spraying wine all over.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-66202668680438109422020-07-27T19:49:00.009+02:002020-07-30T19:59:53.548+02:00Les Gillardes: Sous la griffe de Lucifer, Miroir Tectonique, Les premiers pas d'Elsa<div>
Routes described:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="#Lucifer">Sous la griffe de Lucifer 6c+</a></div>
<div>
<a href="#Miroir">Miroir Tectonique 7b</a></div>
<div>
<a href="#Elsa">Les Premiere pas d'Elsa 7a+</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="#Approach">Getting there</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Are you in Céüse and bored with hiking for an hour to go and climb the same pitch over and over again? Bring down a few draws from your stash at the crag, get yourself two 50 m ropes, two shoulder length slings and something for belays, and drive 50 min to Les Gillardes in Dévoluy and climb something completely different on the “Petite Roche”. You can get three <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Parois-l%C3%A9gende-Arnaud-Petit/dp/2723483282" target="_blank">Parois de Légende</a> ticks, and two <a href="https://livre.fnac.com/a2895007/Philippe-Mussato-Itineraires-d-un-grimpeur-gate">Itinéraires d'un grimpeur gâté</a> ticks as well!<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Petite Roche is west-northwest facing and perfect for warm days. Start early and climb in the shade until 2pm-4pm, depending on the route. The climbing is generally steep, and the rock is featured with plenty of holds and feet. The routes described here are sustained, and harder than what a cursory glance at the topo would perhaps make you think.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The routes should be avoided on days when thunderstorms threaten as after a certain point it would be quite difficult, not to mention expensive, to bail by rappeling. Count on having to get to the top even in case of bad weather.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYTMsaMqw236ntYsJKzPY43DqbCwMJDGqdl9ywv-uaXZWWLqLXhGOZeJavp4prHDYR1pUM56q6kvrrtTndQiACvw25zt9BVW-lHtlgf0nuSlcf2qHWvIeiTrBQeCGagNJ62FWpudxFIg75/s1080/Miroir-10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYTMsaMqw236ntYsJKzPY43DqbCwMJDGqdl9ywv-uaXZWWLqLXhGOZeJavp4prHDYR1pUM56q6kvrrtTndQiACvw25zt9BVW-lHtlgf0nuSlcf2qHWvIeiTrBQeCGagNJ62FWpudxFIg75/s320/Miroir-10.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The start of the routes</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
My topo for the three routes we did</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZ-f4qAJ6YHHnA9LXBfIhpobYB3vsyd69qT03dl0aXIfZmLXmiiyReuMepEY4TqiL5Fh8rITnUtBIvaMVMHi8W6uDfCiJc3t6xTY1afW_xcEW9XbFCudDUpuuAZHaHcjp3z4aB2a7WJXr/s2048/PetiteRocher.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1447" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZ-f4qAJ6YHHnA9LXBfIhpobYB3vsyd69qT03dl0aXIfZmLXmiiyReuMepEY4TqiL5Fh8rITnUtBIvaMVMHi8W6uDfCiJc3t6xTY1afW_xcEW9XbFCudDUpuuAZHaHcjp3z4aB2a7WJXr/w443-h625/PetiteRocher.png" width="443" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p_V-SijuK16s6MYrmciov_3ykwwWgEBv/view?usp=sharing">Topo as pdf here</a></span></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h2><h2 style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7998891179109219100" id="Lucifer" name="Lucifer">Sous la griffe de Lucifer</a>, 450m ED-, 6c+>6b+, 14 pitches </h2>
<div>
Gear: 11 draws max for the pitches plus something for belays. Two 50 m ropes. I would avoid hauling. Climb with a small backpack or clip water and shoes to the harness.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
FA: Bruno Béatrix & Bruno Martel, 1987. Rebolted in 2013, and a few bolts added at the same time.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Unusually sustained and steep face climbing for 13 pitches. No cracks or any rock that touches the back of the hand. In the shade until around 2.30pm.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The route starts at the memorial plaque to Bruno Martel that his daughters put in place:
“You who passes by, remember Bruno Martel and his love for The Gillards. To our dad, with eternal love” </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9C0ByAkzoxPWKRayIQGJcSEKRc1KRKT0Sv9gF5WI0hefBf9pFRUSnLFrZlXxNGJYsnsd1DscDg30grYRvq_KRspQqebMUMrarX07MCHx0yHhxSwuvLJQAh8mGjy7zTyaKYCZvn0i9GLVm/s1080/lucifer-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9C0ByAkzoxPWKRayIQGJcSEKRc1KRKT0Sv9gF5WI0hefBf9pFRUSnLFrZlXxNGJYsnsd1DscDg30grYRvq_KRspQqebMUMrarX07MCHx0yHhxSwuvLJQAh8mGjy7zTyaKYCZvn0i9GLVm/s320/lucifer-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memorial Plaque at the base of Elsa and Lucifer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The first pitch has some average rock but not many bolts so it pays to be careful. Overall the bolting is minimalistic. Count on having to climb up to six meters between the bolts if the climbing is 6a or easier.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Sometimes the next bolt is hidden behind a feature, and if it is far away you will not always spot it from below. As it is possible to climb more or less everywhere, put yourself in Bruno and Bruno's shoes and try to find the easiest climbing and the next bolt will appear eventually.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSN3saoFUbXq6TSxEXMNtD8MSsduXoMopsQbGLDpcHm3q55MUhobIoppMIst6X_O4CK6CapBnLmBC7_wSVy6NhrceI_VaaF3-wXXFxmo__jh4lGhjf2oecT-tMS3VANAfx9SlSRozqcA6V/s1080/lucifer-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSN3saoFUbXq6TSxEXMNtD8MSsduXoMopsQbGLDpcHm3q55MUhobIoppMIst6X_O4CK6CapBnLmBC7_wSVy6NhrceI_VaaF3-wXXFxmo__jh4lGhjf2oecT-tMS3VANAfx9SlSRozqcA6V/w300-h400/lucifer-2.jpg" title="Here's J. on the 6th pitch" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's J. on the 6th pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
Pitch 5 to 11 were very good. We found the ninth pitch (6c) the hardest. A good pitch on a leftward slanting traverse. Pitch eleven is nominally the crux pitch (6c+), with lots of silica bands on grey limestone giving small crimps everywhere that are a pleasure to climb on. Pitch eleven is fairly slabby and can be climbed mostly on the feets, something that is quite welcome after ten pitches of sustained climbing!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX43PWJCUE2gKB8J2gm-X1EtV-U798hgKKcHBNh21wD8wXkkdQe499PSY9sGR5etZBAGek-FiV76x3IQNt9c3vmA3dvUMWYGd4afA3DZCnK0Cd4OTUs-lCtOlE7lYO38Xk5M4cjCVNZs23/s1080/lucifer-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX43PWJCUE2gKB8J2gm-X1EtV-U798hgKKcHBNh21wD8wXkkdQe499PSY9sGR5etZBAGek-FiV76x3IQNt9c3vmA3dvUMWYGd4afA3DZCnK0Cd4OTUs-lCtOlE7lYO38Xk5M4cjCVNZs23/s320/lucifer-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the belay of pitch eleven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Pitch 12 and parts of pitch 13 goes through what in the vernacular is called “pouding”, i.e. conglomerate. Neither are particularly sustained which is a nice change from the limestone and flint lower on the route.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The descent is a leisurely stroll down along a single footpath that starts at directly at the top of the route and leads down the shoulder to the hamlet of <i>Jouves</i>. A 2 km hike along the main road leads back to the parking.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjry8cS3utbNvEgfVa5-OrE9hl7TKreJ8qmTEHw6_y4m6Z5EiOdOksGd-jLfcf1ogpBQFRrJ0s3XJs7cipgc2ZeZSZrl9K9jawHgAr2FEuHoOGYGpngdD4vp9ul3ZzZDsBLm4NjJBRo7Gb3/s1080/Miroir-9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjry8cS3utbNvEgfVa5-OrE9hl7TKreJ8qmTEHw6_y4m6Z5EiOdOksGd-jLfcf1ogpBQFRrJ0s3XJs7cipgc2ZeZSZrl9K9jawHgAr2FEuHoOGYGpngdD4vp9ul3ZzZDsBLm4NjJBRo7Gb3/w300-h400/Miroir-9.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the decent towards Jouves. The impressive looking wall on the horizon is <i>Pic de Bure</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7998891179109219100" id="Miroir" name="Miroir">Miroir Tectonique</a> 450 m, ED, 7b>6c A0</h2>
<div>
<div>
Gear: 14 draws max for the pitches plus something for belays. Two 50 m ropes. Hauling a bag is easy.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
FA: Bruno Béatrix & Martin Hurtaj, 2018</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After having climbed Lucifer, we were still keen on more. A friend of Julia recommended the newer route Miroir Tectonique. I couldn't find any topo for the route, but there was a written description on camptocamp.org, which more than sufficed as it doesn't cross any route. So really it is just a question of following the plentiful bolts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Come to think about it Miroir Tectonique could be an easier route than Sous la griffe de Lucifer for many visitors to Céüse. Miroir has <i>a lot more bolts </i>than Lucifer, and the hard parts are overhanging with pretty good holds. The only thing that requires a bigger tool set than normal sport climbing is that the route goes through some questionable rock; on almost every pitch some holds were moving and we broke a few footholds along the route. Take care to choose solid holds over good holds.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The route starts 50 m to the right of the common first pitch of Elsa and Lucifer. The first pitch is easily identified by the large roofs that caps the 2nd pitch. Start on the plumb line straight down from the left edge of the roof.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Lf1IEcMgpkcAhT9Yp96metOTVEcUq6cK-pqbhBGSKwFesIVMUUCFzTJxGZZ6KFBwCT-6iR6dnOS1fJAThYTEMneKMnFegxa3TuJ3FJ_GQJpgVsFsOLpS-0i0JPT04xv1WcwBm5huOE8_/s1080/Miroir-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Lf1IEcMgpkcAhT9Yp96metOTVEcUq6cK-pqbhBGSKwFesIVMUUCFzTJxGZZ6KFBwCT-6iR6dnOS1fJAThYTEMneKMnFegxa3TuJ3FJ_GQJpgVsFsOLpS-0i0JPT04xv1WcwBm5huOE8_/s320/Miroir-1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 1 of Miroir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The first two pitches were nothing remarkable, but the very short 3rd pitch is easy and fun in a spectacular position.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjprVlbn5VBwrO7AzTE1ncyqlY3wW4kv412VFa9Gx6Chb7Y21fIFGpQhRwdIQTfkIQ0UBPJZ6h3irl4HUs0FA6nSXC_S7ahbj28_gxczQ_sgnE3UQnkkg_-MeHl7-_MOvzDa26ImQMKaVV9/s1080/Miroir-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjprVlbn5VBwrO7AzTE1ncyqlY3wW4kv412VFa9Gx6Chb7Y21fIFGpQhRwdIQTfkIQ0UBPJZ6h3irl4HUs0FA6nSXC_S7ahbj28_gxczQ_sgnE3UQnkkg_-MeHl7-_MOvzDa26ImQMKaVV9/w400-h300/Miroir-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 3 of Miroir. Around the roof and up right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The fifth pitch is fairly long, at least 40m, and goes through slightly overhanging yellow rock. Sustained climbing, but a bit easier than the 7a+ given in the description we had — more like 7a I think.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3H23OPlx8QCtKJgGUDHfeKB9H1kbCi7oNVvjuwDUL0w7lFZE-ME2ilXkVktmE1_w7zMDmUqD4gyqUGaoe4trE6uhlm5eDo1tiHwXrKhoEJmBl33Qvwrs-PpUJ6t8PnkeLd4zi3l97-6gL/s1080/Miroir-4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3H23OPlx8QCtKJgGUDHfeKB9H1kbCi7oNVvjuwDUL0w7lFZE-ME2ilXkVktmE1_w7zMDmUqD4gyqUGaoe4trE6uhlm5eDo1tiHwXrKhoEJmBl33Qvwrs-PpUJ6t8PnkeLd4zi3l97-6gL/w300-h400/Miroir-4.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 5 7a/+. Note the haul rope.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
After the fifth pitch there is an easy-ish pitch leading up to a rotten terrass, traversing the terrass was not as terrifying as I though it would be, as there were a few bolts placed along the pitch. Protection on a super-easy pitch? Modern times indeed!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If we found the fifth pitch easy, the eight pitch felt hard for its grade. There is an aid-point on the pitch (the only point of aid on the entire route) consisting of a fixed sling above the small roof. I had a quick look around and I am pretty sure that it is possible to free climb past the sling at a grade below 8a. So those who can afford to fire off 7c+ one-move wonders onsight in the middle of a long day, and admittedly there should be many of those, should definitely refrain from pulling on the sling.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFH8LvLuIozdPss0UDXxpk47c4E0YdZ5ICkDPIHM4Qa-8bBiS8yA6TYnODsNXiu06YPbz25vaDSLWrh97lgu7YhZ3jpXXuRGrD_w1-Nl5JsMgBzRZ2-jGQWjYvPYSHhrO_83ithLXVFOG/s1080/Miroir-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFH8LvLuIozdPss0UDXxpk47c4E0YdZ5ICkDPIHM4Qa-8bBiS8yA6TYnODsNXiu06YPbz25vaDSLWrh97lgu7YhZ3jpXXuRGrD_w1-Nl5JsMgBzRZ2-jGQWjYvPYSHhrO_83ithLXVFOG/w300-h400/Miroir-6.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 10th pitch ends with a traverse, so haul to the last bolt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After the tough but short eight pitch there are four 6c/+ pitches in a row completely free of easy parts. The tenth pitch had a rather mandatory move near the belay, and the twelfth pitch was particularly steep and good but watch out for loose holds. At this time the air really started to heat up as well, with temperatures in the high twenties, no wind and high humidity. Stupidly we had only one-and-a-half litre of water between the two of us. That would likely had been ok a normal day, but it was a hot as the weather forecast had promised.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmRgPEWdbqudX762L0OhefMFCYR5_in4lZIb-iRrwyWRttRVcTH2S3itE57d0jz_RXTgBNs4_k8IsPiBT5qKXoIGgGYz9IZtjcc3h942AUo5P5qQhrq37QnCd85P3Q2cx3P5mn4vK8Wzo/s1080/Miroir-7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmRgPEWdbqudX762L0OhefMFCYR5_in4lZIb-iRrwyWRttRVcTH2S3itE57d0jz_RXTgBNs4_k8IsPiBT5qKXoIGgGYz9IZtjcc3h942AUo5P5qQhrq37QnCd85P3Q2cx3P5mn4vK8Wzo/w500-h375/Miroir-7.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the sun on pitch 12</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
The upper parts of the route doesn't get into the sun until just before 4pm, by which time most normal team should be on the top. Not us though. We were on the twelfth belay.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It was loose holds on the thirteenth pitch that ended the dream of a clean onsight for me. I broke off half a crimp on the fingery climbing at the start, but managed to hold on. That was all for nothing as I fell on the last hard move of the pitch when breaking a foothold... At least, that is what I'm telling myself. If I had a smidgen more margin it would have been fine.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I was totally broken by this point. Luckily Julia cheated her way up the pitch and thus had some energy left to lead the last 6c-pitch in full sun and temperature around 30 degrees. I somehow managed to also follow clean.</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h2><h2 style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7998891179109219100" id="Elsa" name="Elsa">Les premiers pas d'Elsa</a> 430 m, ED, 7a+>6c</h2>
<div>
Gear: 12 draws max for the pitches plus something for belays. Two 50 m ropes. Hauling a bag is easy.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
FA: Catherine Boroch & Bruno Martel, 1999</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
After two routes on the Gillardes, my better half had it with the wall. Suffering from a bit of monomania I wanted to do <i>Premier pas d'Elsa</i> as well as it is included in both <i>Parois de Légende</i> and Mussato's book <i>Itinéraires d'un grimpeur gâté</i>. A Dutch climber I know was in the area and I suspected that he could be convinced; alas, he had already moved on to more proper alps, but luckily he knew Erik, a Belgian climber who was in the area and was keen.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Of the three routes I did on Petite Roche, this was the hardest overall. The crux pitch on Elsa is quite a bit easier than the crux on Miroir, and not harder than the second hardest pitch on Miroir, but Elsa has a lot more volume of hard climbing. For a team willing to pull on a draw or two, Miroir must be miles easier to climb. Miroir also a lot more bolts to actually pull on.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
I met Erik in the morning 7.15AM at the parking, and after spending half a minute on discussing the rack we went off.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The route starts with the same first pitch and a half as Sous la griffe de Lucifer, but then continue straight up with a second pitch that was closer to 6c than 6b. Pretty demanding climbing with some runouts early in the morning as well.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdByl-qnH0QF3JxprrlKUW6vSG_vNLHQk7qVKkPFeKyAxRgBu-JGrxYQANJUJ2fNEcfcwp2VJfqyhd97x0OlzK6M27yfingjZkpGoHBpf1Lk1nWoGW-PCLP48mwwMHEew5Ejoqz0Vg8nwz/s1080/elsa-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdByl-qnH0QF3JxprrlKUW6vSG_vNLHQk7qVKkPFeKyAxRgBu-JGrxYQANJUJ2fNEcfcwp2VJfqyhd97x0OlzK6M27yfingjZkpGoHBpf1Lk1nWoGW-PCLP48mwwMHEew5Ejoqz0Vg8nwz/w300-h400/elsa-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After pitch 2, we were already awake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<div>
<br />
The French climbing establishment insist on this slightly quixotic fight against dissemination of information outside of local topos. After having had Rockfax and Tmms Verlag's topos in the cross hairs, their new pet hate seems to be camptocamp.org. As Mistral is for noobs and Rockfax tends to have errors like having the wrong number of pitches on routes, having the pitches in wrong order, or simply drawing routes on a pic of the wrong mountain I never considered using them for information and thus never really cared either way. Camptocamp, on the other hand, is a real gold mine with up-to-date user generated information about routes on the Continent, the Maghreb and the Levant. Specifically I learned from <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/outings/1212868/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-les-premiers-pas-d-elsa">comments on there</a> that there were four hangers missing along the route, so I went to Approach in Gap and bought 5 hangers the day before climbing.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The fourth anchor was the first that missed a hanger, and since the hanger in place had a small hole with a sling already threaded through it I could not get any of our crabs to fit, so I was quite happy to have a wrench and a hanger in the harness and nuts in the shirt pocket...</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-TODqk8vMknQgpiOlC6Tboh3Tw64OEvilWbC-s8i7bpHki_nac0kkjG6rIZSpEl89qj67tYSC5HfHV5ojKAxN9APZrrPbFdFnmW7ZDyRHaqF98Fvtj658uBOQNyBVTeLbZ57YDN131t-/s1080/elsa-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-TODqk8vMknQgpiOlC6Tboh3Tw64OEvilWbC-s8i7bpHki_nac0kkjG6rIZSpEl89qj67tYSC5HfHV5ojKAxN9APZrrPbFdFnmW7ZDyRHaqF98Fvtj658uBOQNyBVTeLbZ57YDN131t-/w300-h400/elsa-2.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik near the fourth belay. A team on Miroir's yellow rock in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The fifth pitch had also a missing hanger, on the crux bit. Luckily Erik had margin and put in in place from a free climbing stance. Luckily it was also quite easy for the grade. One of only two pitches I felt was on the easy side. Most pitches felt quite hard for their given grade...</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8TioUvgk_Ua31Pg0eB1EnAIqdNEKPf9CofSIY39ryAMumRX3Tlg4VHuJQ0Gcw2OdeGzMFbaBYvlloXpEAx5J20TLKZiRxnLddfS7aBdNPxUbg19Np3LwT80WckRx0hqs1qJlTdQCfFB-/s1080/elsa-3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8TioUvgk_Ua31Pg0eB1EnAIqdNEKPf9CofSIY39ryAMumRX3Tlg4VHuJQ0Gcw2OdeGzMFbaBYvlloXpEAx5J20TLKZiRxnLddfS7aBdNPxUbg19Np3LwT80WckRx0hqs1qJlTdQCfFB-/s320/elsa-3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik just about to add a hanger to a bolt on pitch five</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
Starting on pitch 5 the climbing got very good as well. Basically everything from pitch 5 to pitch 13 is brilliant. Pretty solid rock as well.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Erik towards the end of the sixth pitch.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The eight (crux) pitch was particularly good... Overall I think that a good level of endurance is needed for the route. There are no slab pitches and almost everything from pitch 6 and onwards is either vertical or slightly overhanging (this part of the crag was the site of France's biggest rope-jump in 2019) with very few easy sections.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The ninth pitch was a piece of cake, but I struggled a lot on the tenth pitch, and close to the belay I was pretty close to falling on the section here:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpNr9uppgOrczdCrSNHHdHACTLC6hh6vAyUklaF19ECTaJVlBk9HxOJW_FTZHORiDgBD_XSDrnpHBI2Vx5yUd0cJglICcjRGcd5-RxR55_tRLB8n9t8Q5zonM1dcSpZr82Ypn15LIIwede/s1080/elsa-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpNr9uppgOrczdCrSNHHdHACTLC6hh6vAyUklaF19ECTaJVlBk9HxOJW_FTZHORiDgBD_XSDrnpHBI2Vx5yUd0cJglICcjRGcd5-RxR55_tRLB8n9t8Q5zonM1dcSpZr82Ypn15LIIwede/w300-h400/elsa-6.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricky traverse on pitch ten.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The eleventh pitch goes through the overhang just above Erik in the pic above. In my experience it is exceedingly rare to climb steeply overhanging rock with 300+ meter of pure air beneath the feet at such an amiable grade (7a). Partly explained by the fact that it is not a very long section.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The route finishes with some brilliant but confusing climbing on a band of conglomerate. Take care not to end up on the belay of Lucifer after the 6c+ conglomerate on pitch 12. Even though I had done Lucifer a week earlier I managed to end up there, before I realised where I was. The real belay after pitch 12 consists of a bolt and a piton, and is not in a small cave, if you are wondering.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Overall a brilliant route that is harder to link than a cursory glance at the topo would suggest. Most pitches are very sustained, and the easier parts are quite runout. In my opinion, the global grade of ED is well deserved.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7998891179109219100" id="Approach" name="Approach">Getting there</a></h2>
</div>
<div>
<div>
Park at 44°45'03" North and 5°53'01" East, some 2 km north of Saint-Disdier in Dévoluy, on a big pullout. Walk south across the stone bridge and descent fixed ropes on the right bank of Souoise river. Follow the footpath downstream along the river, then up right via a steep scree slope to the base of the wall.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The parking for the climbing is just a kilometer south of La source des Gillardes, the second largest spring in France (after la Fontaine de Vaucluse).</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-69308965932512041872016-11-16T18:59:00.000+01:002016-11-20T20:28:02.840+01:00Reel Rock 11 ReviewThe last week I saw the eleventh edition of the “Reel Rock” climbing video compilation at a pretty full auditorium in Stanford.
<br />
<br />
Last year Big Up/Sender film's compilation got a bit of a stick for being a complete sausage-fest, and I was happy to see that the gender balance is a bit more representative of the climbing community this year.
<br />
<br />
The first film was about Kai Lightner and Ashima Shiraishi traveling to Flatanger to do some totally amazing groundbreaking accents, which didn't happen. And which would have been a stupid storyline anyway. Kai Lightner and his mother came off very well from this segment, especially his mother who seemed to be a wise woman and whose thoughts I would have liked to hear more of. Shirashi wants to be the best climber in the world, whatever that means. In particular it seems to mean that a pointless addition of some “success” in Kyushu had to be tagged on to the end of the segment.
<br />
<br />
The best-climber-in-the-world thing made me depressed and very uncomfortable, even more as the entire Flatanger trip jarred with false notes, so it was great that the next segment “Boys in the bugs” offered comic relief.
<br />
<br />
Boys in the bugs has some very old-fashioned story telling about a team (Matt Segal and Will Stanhope) trying to free a horrendously hard fingercrack in the middle of a big shield of alpine granite in the Bugaboos. The segment really celebrates the pointlessness of it all, where our heroes sacrifice relationships, comfort and money to reach some ill-defined vague notion of success. Edited to show lots of hard drinking and funny dialogue. This was the best segment out of the five.
<br />
<br />
The third segment was about some Canadian local hero. I didn't catch her name, but some time after I lost interest in the clip and was checking my twitter feed she soloed some 6b+ thing in Patagonia and talked about being completely alone on the wall, except for the camera team one supposes? Sorry, but I would have looked if I was payed instead of paying to see this. (Addendum: The climber is called Brette Harrington, she's from south of the border and you should <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP51/what-the-heart-only-sees">read her account in Alpinist instead</a>. It's amazing.)<br />
<br />
The fourth film was called “Rad Dad” and showed a dude called Mike dancing in spectacular locations wearing funny animal masques. So that was funny. The film should have concentrated on that part. Instead, the story of the film was about Mike being mostly absent from his family while concentrating on his self realisation, which was OK because he volunteered for a lot of PTA meetings when he was home. Alas, I couldn't connect with him and his struggles at all as he seemed basically clueless. Actually, to Mike there seemed to be no struggle at all.<br />
<br />
The conflict between realising selfish climbing goals and responsibilities as a partner or a parent has of course been unsuccessfully covered by several climbing films, e.g. “A Line Across the Sky” from last year's Reel Rock, and equally as unsuccessful by climbing literature like “Psychovertical” by Andy Kirkpatrick. There is however a large corpus of excellent literature, theatre and film by authors who have been neglected by their loved ones.
<br />
<br />
The final film was by far the funniest. “Dodo's delight” showcases Belgian humour and lots of really shitty rock on Baffin Island. Narrated by Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, who's genuinely funny, it was full of an unenforced sense of adventure in the true sense of the word. I'm not sure it is different from the web-episodes though? I saw those a while ago so I cannot really remember.<br />
<br />
Rating: 3/5. Wait until it appears on your local torrent so you can skip segments 3 & 4. Segment 1 is probably quite good, so if you're less uncomfortable then I am by hard pressure from sponsors, choaches & parents on a 14-year old I'm sure it's quite OKUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-64409111700256082612016-11-03T14:26:00.005+01:002016-11-03T14:42:09.991+01:00Keep cool Raoul and La 7ème Leffe in Gorge de la Jonte.My partner has been gone since mid September, and I have had a horribly full schedule of teaching, so apart from a half-day visit to Auzat in September I have not climbed outside since August. Just a bit of bouldering in the gym, with some attempts to keep a bit of endurance by doing a few fifteen-minutes sessions on the hang board.<br />
<br />
Just about when I was about to have a break-down I got Thursday-Tuesday free from teaching. Luckily my friends Erik & Paulina was in Gorge du Tarn for a two week trip. Unfortunately, they are both injured. Paulina so bad that she cannot climb, and Erik bad enough that he has decided not to climb anything above 6c or so.<br />
<br />
After a short visit to the sector Zebra in Gorge du Tarn, Erik decided that it's more fun to climb easy multi-pitch routes than single-pitch moderates. I had no objections.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqn_ptPIyy74kM12460WFgTZ6cLtEfGFaJDPuNYQIRUtQiDr7z6pLjiZc3AlC_dQ5t8dAjQDXxmFROe3R1Vp_xN6ydwx5z5kzYOpKcBZFeDoE24yzXZ5qmSTWDFjs_97O7MqNOExj-8aL/s1600/14907605_10153893618551603_4975352112953209949_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqn_ptPIyy74kM12460WFgTZ6cLtEfGFaJDPuNYQIRUtQiDr7z6pLjiZc3AlC_dQ5t8dAjQDXxmFROe3R1Vp_xN6ydwx5z5kzYOpKcBZFeDoE24yzXZ5qmSTWDFjs_97O7MqNOExj-8aL/s640/14907605_10153893618551603_4975352112953209949_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep cool. Erik on the second belay, vulture below.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
Keep cool Raoul, 6c+>6b (5 pitches, 150m)</h3>
<div>
Despite having climbed quite a bit in Gorge du Tarn, this is the first route for me in the neighbouring Gorge de la Jonte. It takes a pretty direct line on the left side of the big vertical face of sector Fusée, one of the taller walls in Jonte. The route is well equipped with plenty of glue-in bolts, giving the route a low mandatory grade. On the other hand, the pitch-grades are not at all generous, and the climbing is very sustained and technical.</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>6c. Start on a bit crumbly rock up to a vague grove that is climbed at surprisingly great difficulty using all available techniques for thin face climbing. Not to be underestimated. Take your time.</li>
<li>6b. Another sustained pitch. No fluff.</li>
<li>6c+. A short and difficult boulder problem followed by very nice climbing up and across a grove. Belay out to the right of the line after about 35m. I had maybe 13 draws or so, and had to skip two bolts to get to the belay, so bring plenty of draws for this slightly meandering pitch.</li>
<li>6c. Good climbing on terrain similar to the very best pitches in Tarn. Up the overhang and the arête to a reasonably comfortable belay. This pitch is also sustained.</li>
<li>6b+. Start easy on a juggy traverse leading rightwards up to an overhanging grove with a short but pumpy crux. After the steep groove, there should be a belay up and to the left, according to the topo.</li>
<li>2. A short pitch of easy climbing leads to the top.</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
I did not pay much attention to the topo and missed the bit after the crux on the fifth pitch, and all of sixth pitch. Instead I went straight up after the crux, climbing about 15-20m of crumbly rock at around 5a or so, directly up to the top ledge. Not at all recommended.<br />
<br />
Descend by rappel. There is a rap-route on the left side of the face. You have to lean out to clip the first rap, then three fairly long raps lead to the ground (we had 2x60m of rope). According to <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/57119/fr/la-jonte-fusee-keep-cool-raoul">camp-to-camp</a> it is possible to rap the route on a single 80m, using intermediate belays.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmunqbOdgIOTRM6-rOWFA8VPyW0aCOSvmvFCdPmnKNuJTnJKvSWYbytIbc_5txOZ4SjrecBVqInpuO1lwWUauvxWvlDuqRYiu_IMXkDS9u2cLgkAUxz22tOm3fs44yV8-bOWNcOaKGc57/s1600/14910282_10153893618691603_6829844021009851679_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmunqbOdgIOTRM6-rOWFA8VPyW0aCOSvmvFCdPmnKNuJTnJKvSWYbytIbc_5txOZ4SjrecBVqInpuO1lwWUauvxWvlDuqRYiu_IMXkDS9u2cLgkAUxz22tOm3fs44yV8-bOWNcOaKGc57/s400/14910282_10153893618691603_6829844021009851679_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik close to the end of the third pitch of Keep cool Raoul.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
As both members of the team were in pretty bad shape for long routes our opinions probably don't count for much, but the route took much longer to climb than expected judging from the pitch-by-pitch grades. This was down to the route being incredibly sustained and technical thorough. Well worth doing.</div>
<div>
<br />
Lesson learned: check the topo even if the route is fully bolted. Failing that, “Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end”<br />
<br /></div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
La 7ème Leffe 7a+>6b+/A0 (5 pitches, 120m)</h3>
<div>
The second route we did was another three star choice. La 7ème Leffe (The seventh Leffe), wrongly called La 8ème Leffe in the Rockfax guidebook, climbs the steep Roch Decollée. Good bolts all the way. Very generously bolted also. More sport-climbing over several pitches then multi-pitch that is on fixed gear, if you get my drift.<br />
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKIdx1DKXbrORc1y9jE8EKUJ6PPJCIb2x4pdMm9TwTufegr-ruVQBupHj83-_IvWo-mC8xTBF_63ySr-FVQJi0Oiw-3_lAXZRHksa8PWO_kym-E_YS52hFGZn0-8w5mi22zQLAbzUcy5R/s1600/14906908_10153898365681603_5209175258465992574_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKIdx1DKXbrORc1y9jE8EKUJ6PPJCIb2x4pdMm9TwTufegr-ruVQBupHj83-_IvWo-mC8xTBF_63ySr-FVQJi0Oiw-3_lAXZRHksa8PWO_kym-E_YS52hFGZn0-8w5mi22zQLAbzUcy5R/s640/14906908_10153898365681603_5209175258465992574_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik on the second pitch of La Septième Leffe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>5+. Start on a detached black pillar to the left of a big crack line, via a bolt to a crack leading up to a niche above a roof. Quite polished at the crux.</li>
<li>7a+ Climb the right-slanting crack with increasing difficulties, very cool climbing in a good position on slightly overhanging but not totally bullet rock. At least 15 draws, if you for some reason want to clip every bolt.</li>
<li>6a+. A fantastic pitch up black rock. Still steep.</li>
<li>6c. Would be a three star classic on any single-pitch crag in the world. Steep and very sustained. Technical as well.</li>
<li>6b+. Another magnificent pitch. Traverse right, around the arête and out in space... Exposure straight out of Verdon. Some tricky crack-climbing finish off this spectacular pitch and route.</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
Descend by walking across to the north face and rap down from a big tree with slings. A 20m rap takes you down to a ledge, where a path with fixed ropes takes you down to a second rap. I doubt thee second rap is more than 32-33 m, and quite possible to do on a 60m rope with some easy down climbing (we had a single 80m). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hayrHQpJMLsfdCDR-cMhOlZitSVIt7cjZ8vC8bctsdacX0JFoF7f7qQUIFMuw3taWPSl8-dVu4pqwXf9pw_j74-zxPzJbQoxP1jS1vPkgfbW_1CYn_jyZgh4OzE9-wrOiCaPQTTiQNI6/s1600/14910496_10153898365806603_4802637902909067604_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hayrHQpJMLsfdCDR-cMhOlZitSVIt7cjZ8vC8bctsdacX0JFoF7f7qQUIFMuw3taWPSl8-dVu4pqwXf9pw_j74-zxPzJbQoxP1jS1vPkgfbW_1CYn_jyZgh4OzE9-wrOiCaPQTTiQNI6/s640/14910496_10153898365806603_4802637902909067604_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of the third pitch of La 7ème Leffe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<h3>
Season</h3>
</div>
<div>
Spring and autumn. Most of the climbing is on south facing or south-west facing walls.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Getting there</h3>
Gorge de la Jonte is found north of Millau within walking distance from Rozier. If you get to Rozier by public transport you can probably do quite well without a car, but then you wouldn't be able to visit the close by climbing areas like Gorge du Tarn, Boffi, Cantobre etc.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Guidebook</h3>
<a href="http://www.topo-tarn-jonte-dourbie.info/fr/topo-jonte">The local guidebook</a> is quite expensive, considering the low production values, but some of the proceeds goes toward bolting. Gorge de la Jonte is also covered by the <a href="http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/france-languedoc-roussillon-2011/">Rockfax Languedoc-Roussillon</a> guide. On the two routes we did, the Rockfax was an obvious copy of the local guidebook, with some novel errors. So the Rockfax has better photos but showed the belays in the wrong place for the first route we did, and was totally wrong on the rap for the second route. None of the guidebooks has descriptions of individual pitches.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-76551636761428298762016-06-12T18:46:00.003+02:002016-06-14T11:26:52.015+02:00Verdon, various routes<b>Série Limitée, 250 m, 6c+ (6b/+ obligatory)</b><br />
A good but unfortunately very-very popular route on the north facing Duc. The route goes up on north-west-facing side of the big cleft on the right side of the north face proper, thus the sun hit the upper pitches around 2-3 in the afternoon. Good route for the summer if you can be up before the sun hit it, which, given its popularity might be a problem, if you're not also a morning person.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKyrKbueeUwKWZGpQLZwvzWChRKlngOByvfRHxp-AOhc1LuyEd5KI-QcrpAiZBTqrIACKE1HLx2WCnwA0tEUCB0loFGJelBt9QY5AskpkaN-bok6BCRlgLIssPiKxzkbvB10C7G-7owsd/s1600/Verdon-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKyrKbueeUwKWZGpQLZwvzWChRKlngOByvfRHxp-AOhc1LuyEd5KI-QcrpAiZBTqrIACKE1HLx2WCnwA0tEUCB0loFGJelBt9QY5AskpkaN-bok6BCRlgLIssPiKxzkbvB10C7G-7owsd/s640/Verdon-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A climber on the penultimate pitch of Série Limitée</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The route is not as good as <i>Alix, punk de Vergons</i> (7b) on the same wall, but almost nothing is. However, it offer some of the same style of climbing in a easier setting. The climbing differ quite a lot from the classical routes on l'Escales, with much more user-friendly climbing for the modern sport climber: densely bolted, fairly steep climbing on good holds. The first four pitches all have mediocre climbing – but the top is steep and varied, without being too airy or exposed.<br />
<br />
<i>Approach</i> from the Samson parking lot by walking to the first tunnel on the path downstream along the river, then walk down an across the river on a Tyrolian. Hike up to the crag. Total 15-20 min.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrMZDcqSD1WnPqLV-0C8VqTw58Bct59ugVyUGIKD0Z96qk72yQlV7NR1v1DaFFnm8v2O-liJLjkHjjp1NbdLlqi_i2jYnORdGGfEfXFNrqfSl0Eqt8sVwhLOoZSaGhwqEcaqgcyo7BiRk1/s1600/Verdon-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrMZDcqSD1WnPqLV-0C8VqTw58Bct59ugVyUGIKD0Z96qk72yQlV7NR1v1DaFFnm8v2O-liJLjkHjjp1NbdLlqi_i2jYnORdGGfEfXFNrqfSl0Eqt8sVwhLOoZSaGhwqEcaqgcyo7BiRk1/s640/Verdon-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tyrolian across the Verdon river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<i>Pitch notes</i><br />
P1. 6b. Easy slab climbing. Good warm up. The best of the first four pitches.<br />
P2. 6b+. More slabclimbing up the corner. A few tricky moves at the end. Apparently quite reachy.<br />
P3. 6a+. Easy climbing, a bit awkward to reach a bolt above a ledge on the top.<br />
P4. 6a+. Cross the big dihedral. Nothing special.<br />
P5. 6c. Nice tufa-climbing. Short but sweet (the tufa part)<br />
P6. 6c. A short tricky overhanging bulge close to the belay, then easier climbing to the top. Another good pitch.<br />
P7. 6c+ going on 7a. Off balance dihedral leads to a good overhanging corner with some blind moves. A bit engaged after the final small roof (and before as well if the long sling [chasse d'eau] is not in place). This part is the 6b+ obligatory. Hang in there: you'll be fine. Consider hauling the backpack on this pitch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gLTNfqSUj-o_1y9_0bc87EYguXzu7A3BLrgwZnh1MLMx-5Ej3KVu0GCmcrZ8c6gm2y8Cwxn9qXcil-7pQ3iVXftud_PGPKBtvGgYCO8nt_xLiPlq9b7Lb10jQfA1lfMHuscccyasJJVe/s1600/ChasseDeau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gLTNfqSUj-o_1y9_0bc87EYguXzu7A3BLrgwZnh1MLMx-5Ej3KVu0GCmcrZ8c6gm2y8Cwxn9qXcil-7pQ3iVXftud_PGPKBtvGgYCO8nt_xLiPlq9b7Lb10jQfA1lfMHuscccyasJJVe/s320/ChasseDeau.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
P8. 6b+/c. Short but physical climbing on positive holds.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Gy3aJ_Otesip7XHNvDRs7RDeEQy0HQyEmRwZthbafqnP2NKwJ6wA15xQWz4mAQejX2jXZ9HvYlxRPmHOuh6yTYaWSdLvlC6NSGrQ7WgSMIPhr5fdYd_8NvSYQYaKkqmUyXBAcakugQDK/s1600/Verdon-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Gy3aJ_Otesip7XHNvDRs7RDeEQy0HQyEmRwZthbafqnP2NKwJ6wA15xQWz4mAQejX2jXZ9HvYlxRPmHOuh6yTYaWSdLvlC6NSGrQ7WgSMIPhr5fdYd_8NvSYQYaKkqmUyXBAcakugQDK/s640/Verdon-3.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another shot of the second to last pitch of Série Limitée</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<i>Decent</i>. Follow the path to the rappel on the other side of the big cleft. The first rap is either down to a cave (40 m) or down to a sloping ledge with slings around a tree (55m down to the ledge). From the tree you either do a 20 m rap to some chains or a 60 m rap down to a single bolt 3 m above the next chain (the 3rd belay on Série Limitée), clip in and wait for your second to rescue you... A short 25 rap to the next belay, and then either one more rap or a 60 m rap followed by some down climbing.<br />
<br />
<b>Les Caquous 200 m, 6c A0 (6b+ obligatory)</b><br />
A forgotten classic. Steep climbing on good holds. No pied-main on this one. If you pass l'Escales and all the classic sectors on the scenic route along the rim, almost all the way to la Malin you get to Grand Eycharme, just across from the new Ramirole sector. The route Les Caquous is on the east face, so it's a great option for some afternoon shade. Great climbing, mostly following crack systems and dihedrals up a very impressive wall.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGOqBO1LcG_rOOJlusNp0DtlnNhaWRnoHRVijtDff_x8NxClpUNRyZZyBEahkBkk_1YoBBEJ0Q0s6WxZx8H-m05rL7GhWShXjfCt0tZ2cKeXVF6CCeKunGm_rAuE71CHuj974AIjDXBnD/s1600/Verdon-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGOqBO1LcG_rOOJlusNp0DtlnNhaWRnoHRVijtDff_x8NxClpUNRyZZyBEahkBkk_1YoBBEJ0Q0s6WxZx8H-m05rL7GhWShXjfCt0tZ2cKeXVF6CCeKunGm_rAuE71CHuj974AIjDXBnD/s640/Verdon-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rapping in to the East Face</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<i>Approach</i>. Follow a path and cairns (marked Cac) to a big cairn at the rappels. Apparently it's possible to hike in on skiers left as well. Which I think I'll do if I go there again to do the very classy looking 7b just to the right (Surface), because <i>the raps are freaking scary</i>, even for Verdon! No skimping on the prussik for this rappel... The first rap is either 30-40 m down and slightly climbers left to a big chain – or 55 m straight down where big pendeldums take you down to a tree that you can toe-hook and reach across to two bolts under an overhang. There are no routes coming up here so if you take this option you will need to prussik up 20 m if your swings are not big enough. Luckily some Italian climbers below yelled up to me, advising to do a lot of “ballant”. From the correct chain it is 50 m down to the next chain, from the lower rap I ended up on it's just 30 m maybe. Anyway its freehanging most of the way, and again you need to swing into the rap station. The next rap is 45 m and also mostly freehanging. From this station is possible to get down to the ledge below the big roof with 60 m ropes. Otherwise a 15 m rap leads to another station from which you can rap down to the ledge. If you don't want to climb the pitch through the roof (aid-climbing) you can rap down and diagonally climber's right to a double bolt belay (no chain) above the roof.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KUaWMyBAm2gnBUqsq66r37ptf6PqJ0lkvzhdxhJPkSQb4HjmCVeORSxlEeSw-J5RTUynxsL6Sno5AQyHuOkHa7lrvyRbrwxYx8Ib6Od-SiyCjPmWnu9TGOyX6TGFlHG3SaSlIZ3o485t/s1600/Verdon-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KUaWMyBAm2gnBUqsq66r37ptf6PqJ0lkvzhdxhJPkSQb4HjmCVeORSxlEeSw-J5RTUynxsL6Sno5AQyHuOkHa7lrvyRbrwxYx8Ib6Od-SiyCjPmWnu9TGOyX6TGFlHG3SaSlIZ3o485t/s640/Verdon-7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on P2, Les Caquous</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<i>Pitch notes</i><br />
P1. (Second pitch if approaching on foot from below). 5c A0. Loose climbing up to the roof, then a traverse right-wards to a bolt-ladder through the roof up to a crack. Easy to lead without ladders, but seconding can be tricky for shorter climbers. I'm 1.80 and could unclip from the bolts below without any trouble, but shorter climbers would be well advised to double a long sling in the first bolt hanger, lower themselves out and then prussik up the rope to the second bolt in the roof. Poor suckers.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi548qWLO7_X45JoHuFyYqC5QUNU4rlx-TG_l8z5B4oXM11BB1mMW2jtZ1hczYhpQvvBlWP922HODWSjf1y3KuQJKJgtRzYj65LT-tnuKgfHXCsT-cKyw9LUZKUAJOXD5DyWiQSKQpSmkSp/s1600/Verdon-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi548qWLO7_X45JoHuFyYqC5QUNU4rlx-TG_l8z5B4oXM11BB1mMW2jtZ1hczYhpQvvBlWP922HODWSjf1y3KuQJKJgtRzYj65LT-tnuKgfHXCsT-cKyw9LUZKUAJOXD5DyWiQSKQpSmkSp/s640/Verdon-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The leader in green helmet on P2 of Les Caquous. The belayer in yellow on Surface.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
P2. 5c/6a. 15 m.<br />
P3. 6a 40 m. The timid might want a small rack on this pitch, as the bolts are 7-8 m apart on 5b/c terrain. The climbing is fairly secure though. I guess grey, purple and green camalot or a set of wires would do? P2 & P3 can be done in one very long pitch.<br />
P4. 6b? Or so they say. I found this to be the hardest pitch with a powerful boulder right of the belay. Take the right branch of the corner then downclimb and traverse to the right (easier down low–very low).<br />
P5 6b+. Scramble up and to the right and up the corner. Leave the corner and go up and to the left on a really nice face. The bolts straight up the corner are on another route (Surface).<br />
P6. 6c. Up and get into a committing layback. Definitely not 6a as in the topo in Grimper...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbihGFlYqnxFVT3z0gpcjO-LYM0hrDo1pOwdXklbx8vlRdEqx4S2y0yZ-ZphLPq_01hZ3sshFwstnCzKAgecGXXAedJxjjU1aWRI5wnSVA2vrKtGlUlX5hno8gnJ8H-F9-CaBYLQCcHJa/s1600/Verdon-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbihGFlYqnxFVT3z0gpcjO-LYM0hrDo1pOwdXklbx8vlRdEqx4S2y0yZ-ZphLPq_01hZ3sshFwstnCzKAgecGXXAedJxjjU1aWRI5wnSVA2vrKtGlUlX5hno8gnJ8H-F9-CaBYLQCcHJa/s640/Verdon-9.jpg" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on top of P6.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
P7 6a. More nice layback climbing.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMM2FFTVZ5zVvdhs3KJdvqRwgcgSp_ndpiFakCOJs1Vup4VthvSWenSY_vCG46uWq-Ee5NwU_eXci0qTPvN1kcrZcm7SLL2SCtItmtHayIVy0V4k47x8sinqfB5ZutGVWz2lG-eiYIutx/s1600/Verdon-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWMM2FFTVZ5zVvdhs3KJdvqRwgcgSp_ndpiFakCOJs1Vup4VthvSWenSY_vCG46uWq-Ee5NwU_eXci0qTPvN1kcrZcm7SLL2SCtItmtHayIVy0V4k47x8sinqfB5ZutGVWz2lG-eiYIutx/s640/Verdon-10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia starting up P7</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
P8 6b. Some powerpulls around an overlap. Really cool steep climbing on jugs on this pitch. Topping out where the rappels starts.<br />
<br />
<b>Démon, 160m 7a+ (7a obligatory)</b><br />
Well of course not, either 7a+ or 7a obligatory is wrong.<br />
<br />
Classic Verdon style. A clean onsight of this route was beyond me and I'm well impressed by climbers who manage that. Quite polished on the first pitches, both hands and feet. The climbing is very demanding on the fingers, and often steep. Definitely haul the bag on most if not all pitches. Count on taking a small break on some of the belays (if you don't have a lot of power to waste at this grade on l'Escales).<br />
<br />
<i>Approach.</i> Very mellow approach down the Dalle Gris rappels, then a short hike down the hanging garden to the start. Gets into the shade around 2-3 which should give you enough time both winter and summer.<br />
<br />
P1. "6a". 25m. Start to the left of the big corner system. Belay on a sloping lede.<br />
P2. 7a+ 25m. Wall climbing on pockets. Very sustained on the fingers up the overhang.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgVvyI8I4CwHq85S4JkbUdpQwHhnCvUdT3QkNUGIC3uj1ZGL9o155doUaJiCnnMN0ZwNl7w869L9GoAvrOMFdSbUAYhUBd2tlKa4g_pE4wWGRsdkyOfnwkH4sP1QRmJh1AIXLr1UksHOX/s1600/De%25CC%2581mon-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgVvyI8I4CwHq85S4JkbUdpQwHhnCvUdT3QkNUGIC3uj1ZGL9o155doUaJiCnnMN0ZwNl7w869L9GoAvrOMFdSbUAYhUBd2tlKa4g_pE4wWGRsdkyOfnwkH4sP1QRmJh1AIXLr1UksHOX/s640/De%25CC%2581mon-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's basically over. Julia on top of P2.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
P3. 6b+ 25m. Another good pitch.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_SpyLvUyfV6Yp2xXzMevqDu4anQBb5g-6voA_N5V1PbpRUG3mgzMBfmhcTvvUDqI2b3RvXvZ7oMkq1CNmlm5TAWx3m6VOPGu6Tr-bejNJCCUBaiAeahU0DL9T23_dIALCgrZ4E4ndU7r/s1600/De%25CC%2581mon-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_SpyLvUyfV6Yp2xXzMevqDu4anQBb5g-6voA_N5V1PbpRUG3mgzMBfmhcTvvUDqI2b3RvXvZ7oMkq1CNmlm5TAWx3m6VOPGu6Tr-bejNJCCUBaiAeahU0DL9T23_dIALCgrZ4E4ndU7r/s640/De%25CC%2581mon-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yey, that's me on P3! Another great pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
P4. "7a". 35m. Another very good pitch. Really hard for the grade, even for the area. The second half in particular has some really out there climbing. Excellent. Did I mention that I found this hard? Oh well, ignore me, I'm probably just full of crap.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJbDZpSF7Hyj2BQSbp-RtaWKD0dGqqy5UjlMeOCOfjNqfb-tiHrbmYKhvlR-FjLc9dlN-l6jOs01DestyYCBPv8bTVEUZueE7cfsbyG-V3RnHQ4CEgafQu6ypeMbSQ39UBxIPzRu9OcdJV/s1600/De%25CC%2581mon-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJbDZpSF7Hyj2BQSbp-RtaWKD0dGqqy5UjlMeOCOfjNqfb-tiHrbmYKhvlR-FjLc9dlN-l6jOs01DestyYCBPv8bTVEUZueE7cfsbyG-V3RnHQ4CEgafQu6ypeMbSQ39UBxIPzRu9OcdJV/s640/De%25CC%2581mon-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a happy customer on P4</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
P5. 6b+ 40 m. Jikes! This is airy! Traverse up right in a superb position, then up a crack to a belay just below a hanging nose. No polish on this one.<br />
P6 6a+ 50m. Around the corner to the right. Steep. Unrelenting. Major.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-76324124097460867082016-04-01T20:13:00.003+02:002016-04-01T20:13:53.684+02:00Taghia Valley Marocko. Various Routes<h2>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">TAGHIA: The limestone valley</span></b></h2>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeI7OFATL1dj0f_rzeH9Vqb3MWWR6svoEZAvAZd_WRxXzB5JwsesqR4Pn4JQuvaTUy5nZQLKuSKUqd3OmLasrrP58rIX7-4YDLdIIYDOcaUC39JI87315pGg8Soj15e3tCt_7zmzjVNM4/s1600/Morroco-75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeI7OFATL1dj0f_rzeH9Vqb3MWWR6svoEZAvAZd_WRxXzB5JwsesqR4Pn4JQuvaTUy5nZQLKuSKUqd3OmLasrrP58rIX7-4YDLdIIYDOcaUC39JI87315pGg8Soj15e3tCt_7zmzjVNM4/s640/Morroco-75.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team on Zebda, 7b+.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">The climbing</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">It is the world class multi pitch limestone climbing, from 7 to 20 pitches that make climbers travel all the way to Taghia. Some routes have no bolts, most are partly bolted, and some are fully or almost fully bolted. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Some of the older routes follow ridges and are lower in the grades, but they are rarely repeated. To get most out of a one week stay, climbing the easy popular routes, you’d have to be at least a 6c climber, in the sense that seeing the 6c-grade (or 6b obligatory) on a big multi pitch route do not strike fear into you. There is nothing much harder than 8a/+ (or 7b obligatory) in the valley (One 8b and one 8c afaik).</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The climbing is technical, steep and fingery throughout. The grades felt in line with Verdon, maybe a tad more generous. Bring good shoes. Unfortunately your good shoes will not last long as the rock is very abrasive.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There is also some single pitch climbing around Taghia, one crag with some 4s and 5s, one with 7s, and one rather nice looking tufa wall with some low eights. Kris Erickson, an american guide living in Zaouia Ahanesal, has bolted a number of sport routes around Zaouia </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ahanesal </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">with grades from the low sixes to mid eights.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfNZeIXOWwTG0twaqsnr8hHNP0oCQpVb6jlu4crYjF6LVjuBa_LNcWyQXxtPlqkDEqtwV1No6zhZxHD2iSrJkJRN8770B4vTnvDsBv2nl7T13As4VFTNAViVHFt2lt2QEpCwa1OkZ7pzZ/s1600/Morroco-86.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYfNZeIXOWwTG0twaqsnr8hHNP0oCQpVb6jlu4crYjF6LVjuBa_LNcWyQXxtPlqkDEqtwV1No6zhZxHD2iSrJkJRN8770B4vTnvDsBv2nl7T13As4VFTNAViVHFt2lt2QEpCwa1OkZ7pzZ/s640/Morroco-86.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taghia Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">When we went we were the only climbers in the valley, possibly due to the perceived terrorism threat after this summer’s spectacular strike in neighbouring Algeria. (Talking to the Taxi-driver in Marrakesh and to people in Taghia, the consequences for Moroccan tourism has been catastrophic) . There was in other words no hope of rescue if things went bad. Even if there are other climbers in the valley, who are likely to be competent, I would not count on timely rescues being possible—and how would you call on rescue in the first place? Yosemite or the Alps it isn’t.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">The trekking</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The hiking in the High Atlas in general, and around Zaouia Ahanesal in particular, is spectacular. There are donkey trails that criss cross the mountain range between the villages, but very few roads. Some valleys and canyons can be accessed by “Berber ferratas”, where a certain trust in goat-herder’s engineering skills is required.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Kris Erickson in Zaouia Ahanesal can arrange everything around a trekking trip.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiKYqvDqTMZ9EXQ944WScyED0-d0apREapsr5YakaaSQ-5RXaGk2gWpOfs6Fr5Hh6upe9FIg6VdHnjxRc2Cc6ujnDYRX4UGIyyKDY5w3eP3A4pqfJFUtLBvqlyKISIeJpw6vBpJhDzmpN/s1600/Morroco-104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiKYqvDqTMZ9EXQ944WScyED0-d0apREapsr5YakaaSQ-5RXaGk2gWpOfs6Fr5Hh6upe9FIg6VdHnjxRc2Cc6ujnDYRX4UGIyyKDY5w3eP3A4pqfJFUtLBvqlyKISIeJpw6vBpJhDzmpN/s640/Morroco-104.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the path across ... Photo: Julia Sni</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gear</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Depending on what you wish to do of course. We went for a sport climbing trip and brought 19 draws, of which 5 where tripled 60 cm draws, one set of wires and one set of camalots from #0.3 to #2. Those who want to do the longest and most serious sport routes probably wish to bring a #3 and doubles in #.75-2. To repeat the less bolted routes a normal mountain rack is necessary, and possibly a handfull of pitons as well.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If the bolts can be accessed by grade 3-4 scrambling, the Berber might find better use for the nuts and hangers than being protection for climbing tourists: thus there are reports of missing bolt hangers on the first belay of some routes on Parois de Cascade. Bring a hanger or two and some M10 nuts, or M10 nuts, washers and some wires to thread the bolts.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Two ropes, at least 50 m. Most teams probably wish to haul the pack on the harder pitches.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxXJBGrfKDa3D0mDb-pEVwt6v8T1gjGUEIXr2gVLNXwKjvLAUdrr9Dlf2EKAmxsbp_lSnSM2iaU8OoGJfM4OLi3mdQI42vebTNkQKEPMI0op08_TAhnsixzhOZ06RoDkbdj6U3b2FtTh6/s1600/Morroco-60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxXJBGrfKDa3D0mDb-pEVwt6v8T1gjGUEIXr2gVLNXwKjvLAUdrr9Dlf2EKAmxsbp_lSnSM2iaU8OoGJfM4OLi3mdQI42vebTNkQKEPMI0op08_TAhnsixzhOZ06RoDkbdj6U3b2FtTh6/s640/Morroco-60.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Guidebook</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The only printed guidebook is Christian Revier’s beautiful 2009 book “Taghia, Montagnes Berbères” (French) available directly from the author, or through internet retailers. An update would be more than welcome, considering the amount of routes put up since the publication.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A print-out of the topos from Taghia on Luichys site is an almost complete Spanish language guidebook for the routes in the area (up to ≈ 2009 or so) </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://lanochedelloro.com/monografs/taghia/index.htm">http://lanochedelloro.com/monografs/taghia/index.htm</a> (Spanish)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are also topos for some of the popular routes on Remi Thivel’s site <a href="http://www.remi-thivel.com/topos/topos.html">http://www.remi-thivel.com/topos/topos.html</a> (French)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Parois de Legende, (Bodet & Petit) (french) also list a number of routes with topos and some useful info. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A few of the new hard routes put up after the publication of Revier’s book have topos on <a href="http://planetmountain.com/">planetmountain.com</a>, (French and Italian) but generally speaking, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">for routes put up after 2009, the new route book and guest book in Said’s gite is the best bet.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/188961/fr/gorge-de-taghia">Camptocamp.com</a> (French) has some information of course.</span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Staying there</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are a number of gites in Taghia offering half pension. Said’s and Youssef’s Gite among them. Said was the first to cater to climbers, and his Gite has a new-route book and guest book full of impressive stories by climbers of all abilities, from 6c-punters to some of the biggest names in European multi-pitch climbing. Said's gite has consistently good reputation, and I have never heard of anyone having a bad experience.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Most French climbers stay at Said’s Gite. Said speaks French, his son Mohammed speaks good French and a bit of English, and should be able to help you out if you have no French. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">We paid 120 Dh per person per night at Said’s place (September 2015)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Chez Said Messaoudi, Douar Taghia, Zaouia Ahanesal </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">22010 Azilal Maroc</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Cellphone +212668246536 (intermittent coverage)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fixed line +212523 459 290 (directly to the house)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">e.mail: gitesaid@yahoo.fr (if you speak no french it is probably best to e-mail them in English. Mohammed will be able to reply)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.climbingtaghia.com/">http://www.climbingtaghia.com</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Gite-Tawajdat-taghia-organization-of-travel-198075623567735/">https://www.facebook.com/Gite-Tawajdat-taghia-organization-of-travel-198075623567735/</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Chez Youssef Rezki, Douar Taghia, Zaouia Ahanesal </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">22010 Azilal Maroc. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Tel : 00 212 668909843</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Shopping</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">La Boutique Jamal is always open, or so they claim. Holler for them and they come. They had bottled water, Coke, threaded gas canisters (the smallest size), canned sardines, gigantic bags of couscous, some nuts, candy, soap, and internet access for sale (requires a subscription to Meditel). The woman who runs the shop has limited numeracy, so be prepared to do some addition.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are two other shops in the village. But we only frequented this one.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4AdXXDz-pcrm-PxGg9uwLLES3l_sJjUiF807zvMVJ8krV8YJDSH0nAHZk1z4BN-qhN8bofRAx9M3HkWF5MW6P3luDraP6eWrDOoiIMZ5-_fcr43PM29lUIHsN3tQPlHml5sdOdhxvqOZ/s1600/Morroco-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4AdXXDz-pcrm-PxGg9uwLLES3l_sJjUiF807zvMVJ8krV8YJDSH0nAHZk1z4BN-qhN8bofRAx9M3HkWF5MW6P3luDraP6eWrDOoiIMZ5-_fcr43PM29lUIHsN3tQPlHml5sdOdhxvqOZ/s320/Morroco-25.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Boutique Jamal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Weather</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.yr.no/place/Morocco/Tadla-Azilal/Taghia~2531726/">http://www.yr.no/place/Morocco/Tadla-Azilal/Taghia~2531726/</a></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/forecast/week/31.783N-6.067E2083">http://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/forecast/week/31.783N-6.067E2083</a></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Getting there</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Book a gite in Taghia beforehand. Fly to Marrakesh—plenty of low cost carriers traffic Marrakesh—and let the gite arrange the transport from Marrakesh to Taghia. We took taxi all the way from Marrakesh to Zaouia Ahanesal, where the road ends (around 6-7 hours with a lunch break in Azilal) (1200 Dh, October 2015). From Zaouhia, hike in with donkey/mule (100-120 Dh per donkey). One donkey will bring up to 70 kg.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Another option is to get from Marrakesh to Azilal by public transport, than get to Zaouia with taxi.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Yet another option would be to rent a car and drive to Zaouia Ahanesal yourself.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhy4QhcxSrJhiCidPtjDZ6qG1mBUDWddv9j2QtXdJ5HmnEzSqwxTb1Pc0iUcqaEliUVyJwqH0YQYv-_bunH391WLAPva9u32eid7X7f6Ip9mj-J3Xp-uY6XwLzCu9rTXJt7XCg5gjgAEXc/s1600/Morroco-19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhy4QhcxSrJhiCidPtjDZ6qG1mBUDWddv9j2QtXdJ5HmnEzSqwxTb1Pc0iUcqaEliUVyJwqH0YQYv-_bunH391WLAPva9u32eid7X7f6Ip9mj-J3Xp-uY6XwLzCu9rTXJt7XCg5gjgAEXc/s640/Morroco-19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the donkey trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Hygiene</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">More or less everyone who’s ever been has been reporting stomach bugs. We put aquatabs in all water or boiled it before drinking, including the water used for brushing the teeth. We also washed the hands and used antiseptic spray like a couple of OCDs. Still both of us got diarrhoea. </span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Season</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Mid-april to end of October. July and August likely too hot (and travelling in and out of Marrakesh would be a nightmare at that time of year). May and October being the most popular months, with up to 40-50 climbers in the village. In the autumn of 2015 the gites are reporting very few bookings, and we were by ourselves in mid September, having very good conditions for climbing in the shade with daytime temperatures in the low 20s. In May it reportedly rains quite a bit.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Modern life is rubbish?</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Since 2013 there is electricity in the village Taghia. There is also cell phone coverage, but only through Meditel,: <i>no other Moroccan provider will work</i>. There’s also intermittent 3G coverage, but even though our French sim cards could access Meditel for SMS & MMS, we could not get data roaming (which was probably for the better since they ask 3€/Mb for traffic…). We bought a code good for 800 Mb (200 Dh) in the store in Taghia and Mohammed, Said’s son, set up his phone as a wifi-router for us.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The upshot is that it is possible to get up-to-date weather forecasts. We found the one-day forecasts from meteoblue.com to be reliable.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vaccines</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hepatitis A. Two shots, separated by six months, some protection after the first shot.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Diphtheria. A single shot protects for three years</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Lockjaw/tetanus. (This is included in the vaccine program for children in most EU countries)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">What to bring</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climbing gear</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Two pair of shoes. The approach/decent shoes will get wet, so it is nice to change to dry shoes after returning to the village</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Toilet paper</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Head scarf (for women who want to pay respect to local customs)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Aquatabs</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Possibly a small gas stove for tea</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A small medical kit including diarea tabs, penicillin, antiseptic cream, antiseptic spray and painkillers.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h2>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">PERSONAL NOTES ON ROUTES</span></b></h2>
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i>À boire ou je tue le chien</i></b> ** (A drink or I kill the dog) <b>280m 6c</b> (6b+ obligatory)</span></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6Pc0EL_05MGmPpsr2WU_E6L7LWodwOIiv53Lr6zqID_RzpP-LyN5-YUyBInL0_eCTLDgV6zZ_1x3n8DW228ansEj2rlET3GPuqgwy_UzLDkbsrC8Fi8wS1IeqcaKroxxjQuQ-jVbv2ge/s1600/Morroco-30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6Pc0EL_05MGmPpsr2WU_E6L7LWodwOIiv53Lr6zqID_RzpP-LyN5-YUyBInL0_eCTLDgV6zZ_1x3n8DW228ansEj2rlET3GPuqgwy_UzLDkbsrC8Fi8wS1IeqcaKroxxjQuQ-jVbv2ge/s400/Morroco-30.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on À boire ou je tue le chien</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Nice climbing on excellent rock. A bit engaged in places. Has been onsight soloed (Alex Honnhold). Possible to combine with <i>Au nom de la reform</i> for a great day out, if you rap after pitch six. The sun hits the wall around noon beginning of September. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Gear:</b> 12 quick draws, a few wires (Wallnuts #2-#7). Four cams if continuing to the top after pitch 7.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Approach:</b> From Taghia to Taojdad. Go up in the channel between Taoujdad & Oujdad. 30 min after the village, pass a big block on the left. Continue up until a path (cairns) left lead to the two obvious ramps that mark the start of Au nom de la réforme and À boire respectively.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P1 5c. Climb the crack (4) protected by wires or small friends. Then a mixture of wires and bolts to the belay. A bit engaged. Many teams report that this is <i>at least</i> 6a, but if you’re used to climb low-angle cracks 5c is probably fair.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P2 6c. Really good climbing, morpho.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P3 6c. I did something wrong on the start of this pitch. Did a 7a-sequence straight up between the first and second bolt, where a fall would have been unpleasant. My second told me it was easier more to the right rather than straight up, probably 6c.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P4. 6a+ Nice face climbing.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P5. 6b+ Steep and awkward dihedral. Don’t worry, a bolt will appear when needed.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P6. 5c. Reasonably well bolted face climbing. This is the last steep pitch and the last independent pitch as well.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">To climb to the top of Taoujdad, change to your approach shoes and climb the top pitches of La Reform:</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P7. 4+ Trekking along the ridge. Then some face climbing past a bolt (4+), then some trekking again past a big tree to the last steep face. (75 m or so)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P8. 5a. Two or three bolts. Two-three finger sized cams useful (40 m)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: normal;"><b>Decent from Taoujdad</b>:</span> From the top, head south-east on a path (plenty of cairns), diagonally skier’s right. Find a tree with slings and rap 40 m to a col, or 55 m down skiers right. Walk diagonally left and cross the ridge, then follow cairns down and right. Aim for the white water streak in the intermittent creek. Close to this, carefully follow the switchbacks on the right side of the couloir. About 1 hour down to the point where you took off towards the start of the routes and 2 hours down to the village.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgIe8QH0YWJwsFSuPKHqwyCRjKQEMQtKMXDPCmb8kO0-gHdEUoj4YT876DJuhgBuf19q58g_GLRG44gz1MFbPMLsqaerJ11byLRTv0o1uk1cN5LDPac5TeeclY_xGGx31s_9eWPHxiLLZO/s1600/Morroco-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgIe8QH0YWJwsFSuPKHqwyCRjKQEMQtKMXDPCmb8kO0-gHdEUoj4YT876DJuhgBuf19q58g_GLRG44gz1MFbPMLsqaerJ11byLRTv0o1uk1cN5LDPac5TeeclY_xGGx31s_9eWPHxiLLZO/s400/Morroco-34.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Taoujdad</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i></i></b><br /></span></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i>Belle et Berbère ***</i></b> (The Beauty and The Berber) <b>300 m, 6b+</b> (6a+ obligatory)</span></h4>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Very good climbing on a contrived line. Extraordinarily sustained 6b climbing, with most pitches around vertical on good to excellent rock. Very fingery throughout. Probably the most frequently climbed route in Taghia beside <i>La Réforme</i>. The sun hit the face around 12.30 in September.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">13 draws. (And possibly a finger sized friend to protect grade 3 scrambling if necessary)</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Approach on the left side of the creek to Parois des Sources. Two ledges on top of each other, climb up to the lower ledge further to the right with cairns on top of it (3+). There is a route (bolt) starting on the right side of the ledge, Belle et Berber start further right, just around the corner. 15 min from the village if you find the route straight away…</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2S8T_-GkG0LfEEaBY_5M6yNtEXKrr1-Iu-k-z6UAaQCOjpiMkbBpmYvY0BQT16x3LB5s6eLeL6ho3Scz-1qqEXDs3S0elFVCsBxZabu4vExtk2ZOAq4bDhphma1L1DePctu33WivfduJ/s1600/Morroco-35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2S8T_-GkG0LfEEaBY_5M6yNtEXKrr1-Iu-k-z6UAaQCOjpiMkbBpmYvY0BQT16x3LB5s6eLeL6ho3Scz-1qqEXDs3S0elFVCsBxZabu4vExtk2ZOAq4bDhphma1L1DePctu33WivfduJ/s640/Morroco-35.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Belle et Berbère</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P1. 6b Traverse right (three bolts) into a right-facing overhanging dihedral with tufas-in-the-process of growth. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P2. 6b Follow the bolts. Hard slab boulder in the start, then easier. Mind the rope drag.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P3. 6b Sustained low-angle face climbing</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P4. 6b+ Sustained 6b climbing with a boulder move in the middle. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P5 6a+ Short easy pitch, very contrived line where the bolts are placed to force you away from the natural line.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P6. 6b+ Long pitch. Vertical climbing, just when you think it is over, there is a slab crux, then face climbing to the top.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P7 6b Walk across the ledge and then climb a bolted face. The careful climber move the belay to under the face, or just don’t fall. Belay with one bolt and a tree.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P8. 3. One bolt, then hiking diagonally right and scramble up (3b, unprotected or bring a finger sized friend) right to a red big face. Belay in one bolt or stretch up and clip the first bolt on the next pitch as well.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P9. 6b+ A crux on slopers off the first bolt, then easier climbing diagonally right to a steep finish.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P10. 6b+ Hard sequence across the fin, the rest is easier.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: normal;"><b>Decent from Parois des Sources.</b> </span>Scramble diagonally up left until you see the cairns on the ledge system to the left of the top. Follow the well marked path on the ledges for a few hundred meters, and then track back towards the village along the path. (45 min). Sticks or stones might be useful to fend off aggressive dogs on this side of the village.</span></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i>Zebda *****</i>, 260 m, 7b+</b> (6c obligatory)</span></h4>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Second of the top the line. Better than <i>The holy War</i> in Wadi Rum, and slightly worse than <i>Alix, punk of the Vergons </i>in Verdon. Steep climbing on immaculate rock for 280 sustained meters. One of the most popular and recommended routes in Wadi Rum. Deservedly so.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The sun hit the route at around 13:00.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">14 draws + belays.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Approach: Walk to Parois des Sources, past the sources and cross the river and track back. The name of the route is written in big letters at the base. 20 min from the village.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AGgxNG93ioZgRwYkLdn-kWMaKMQ7alTY09TQGp8N0SgCXe7_o5ZDTPlp9LOQm-xl6wIVx21f70PPmIahfw_yDUEaL8BV6MAIa6oGSp5YDwGYavcIPvTco3_31s1hSJQksYGxzgwipjSg/s1600/Morroco-40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AGgxNG93ioZgRwYkLdn-kWMaKMQ7alTY09TQGp8N0SgCXe7_o5ZDTPlp9LOQm-xl6wIVx21f70PPmIahfw_yDUEaL8BV6MAIa6oGSp5YDwGYavcIPvTco3_31s1hSJQksYGxzgwipjSg/s640/Morroco-40.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on Zebda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P1. 7b+ Tough warm up. Well bolted face climbing (7a) with decent rests up to a short boulder crux at the tufa.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P2. 6a+ for the tall. Morpho. Worst pitch on the route.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P3. 6c+ A fantastic pitch. Steep face climbing.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P4. 7b Sustained climbing straight off the belay. Then a bit easier to the roof. The mantel shelf move above the roof is OK. The belay is hanging and in the middle of a non-trivial sequence. Strong climbers with good ethics are advised to bring plenty of quick draws and a 70 m rope and link it with the next pitch.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P5. 7a+ Another mind blowing pitch. Steep crimpy face climbing. Engaged and not trivial (6c-ish) near the belay.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P6 6c. Face climbing straight from the belay, and than a tricky traverse on good holds but mediocre feet.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P7 6c+ Steep climbing. At least a grade easier than previous pitch.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P8 6b (50m). Major pitch. Steep stemming up the corner. Belay on a single bolt + a tree.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Scramble 5-10 min to the top and descend as for <i>The beauty and the Berbere</i></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i></i><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Approach to Canyon Apache/North face of Taojdad</span></i></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Walk past Parois des Sources, and access the canyon to the left by scrambling up on its right side. A bolt around the corner is used to make the passage 4/A0 (expo). Keep walking up-river with a short passage of scrambling. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After a while you come to a narrow passage where there are two options: either an exposed slab traverse to the left (5, one bolt) supposedly leads to a Berber bridge at a delicate river crossing (this bridge was either under water or gone when we where there) or three bolts on a bulge can be aided and then a short passage of 4+ climbing (one bolt) lead to a glue-in bolt (belay). From this traverse left and up and scramble along ledges until the river can be accessed again-</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Further upstream there are some gigantic boulders blocking the canyon. If the water level is very low it is apparently possible to walk up to these and climb up and under them (very exposed) to approach the north face of Taojdad. Again we had to high water for this to be possible, instead we did the more common approach by way of the first pitch of Canyon Apache. Climb up three bolts on the left side of the canyon (the third was really loose) then traverse right 30 m to a delicate passage (6a) leads to a ledge. On the right side of the ledge the second pitch of Canyon Apache can be found.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">To approach the north face of Taojdad downclimb from the start of the second pitch of Canyon Apache to the riverbed.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">To get from the north face of Taojdad back to the village it is supposedly possible to rap down the passage with the gigantic boulders mentioned above. The water was to high for us and we had to reverse the first pitch of Canyon Apache.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnsBlE5MAu6kZEjhMkbZsrUNLTvVtaJjwynMUIek_blIiYHpkxsEZqm33QLmI7ktyL5KBhWUXAOPZeL0gwq_wJd1PMzxqDX-1rfbZ2d2nef8e28dSkO7FzsZE5BhFBwzqoG1M8EdeBCwub/s1600/Morroco-56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnsBlE5MAu6kZEjhMkbZsrUNLTvVtaJjwynMUIek_blIiYHpkxsEZqm33QLmI7ktyL5KBhWUXAOPZeL0gwq_wJd1PMzxqDX-1rfbZ2d2nef8e28dSkO7FzsZE5BhFBwzqoG1M8EdeBCwub/s640/Morroco-56.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Canyon, not accessible from the village side without one and a half pitch of climbing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Classe Montagne Épinal **, 185 m, 6c+ (6b obligatory)</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Approach: Scramble up the ledge system from right. The route follows a big pillar system.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P1 6b+. A very good vertical pitch</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P2 6b. Another good pitch</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P3 5+</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P4 6c+ Good vertical face climbing with a hard sequence straight up from the belay.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P5 6a+ dihedral. Not so good. A shoulder length sling can be used around a tree at the top of the pitch</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P6 6b Straight up to a ledge, then traverse far right on the ledge then straight up. Two ropes useful</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P7 6a+ Many bolts. Finish on the ledge with belay on one bolt + tree.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Untie and scramble up diagonally to the left to the ledge system that traverse the mountain on the south east side. Follow the cairns.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7j_gvDSMOfAo4cweodbBT3Z4sd6ktS7n9M0LMWEBIMBW0oG0xsdb0oT_ugDfmtXLBlcUPXP_QpplFPoLS5Lyu5CkO-WC0yNU5Qk7QoQpEzFdsSqdYlovN0b2KPTs0Ao58_fWEFoSHX7AM/s1600/Morroco-64.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7j_gvDSMOfAo4cweodbBT3Z4sd6ktS7n9M0LMWEBIMBW0oG0xsdb0oT_ugDfmtXLBlcUPXP_QpplFPoLS5Lyu5CkO-WC0yNU5Qk7QoQpEzFdsSqdYlovN0b2KPTs0Ao58_fWEFoSHX7AM/s400/Morroco-64.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on Classe Montagne </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Fat guides ***** 250 m, 7b+ (7a obligatory)</span></b></h3>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Start to the left of Zebda</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">For the grade it does not get much better. Dead vertical wall of perfect limestone. Will only improve as a few more ascents clean it up further.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgigg87XWUSxc26Bx5HJQOc9E5wu7qRzjLS2pBBNsN3cPdwR1N-XpCczOWmvgnFfP1TMo4d66tADP4KheEzYHqqq4ivsf5AKuC_B2IEGOU7sJWEn0Ylqi8Chjfs0Twt-b9kk77Y9k51ulTJ/s1600/Morroco-74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgigg87XWUSxc26Bx5HJQOc9E5wu7qRzjLS2pBBNsN3cPdwR1N-XpCczOWmvgnFfP1TMo4d66tADP4KheEzYHqqq4ivsf5AKuC_B2IEGOU7sJWEn0Ylqi8Chjfs0Twt-b9kk77Y9k51ulTJ/s400/Morroco-74.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P1 7b+ Hard start for the first few bolts, then steady climbing until a physical traverse out left. Finish up a very thin slab. This pitch probably sees some seepage as it was quite dirty. Felt like 7c/+ in the conditions we had.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P2 6c+ Nice short pitch.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P3 6c The same. The 3rd bolt is quite tricky to clip for short climbers (bring a stiff draw or a medium sized climbing partner).</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P4 7a+. Magnificent pitch, not alway totally obvious to find the best sequence. Semi-hanging belay. Felt like 7b/+ to me.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P5 7b? Easy climbing up to a short two-bolt crux to a good hold, then some pumpy climbing lead to a comfortable belay. Either I missed something, or this is more like 7b+/c. A bail biner on the bolt before the hardest part told me I’m not alone finding this difficult.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P6. 6c. Another very nice, short pitch to a good belay.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P7. 7a+ An absolutely superb pitch. The first bolt is put in a bit too high, then there are 18(!) bolts in 50 m. It’s possible to shuffle draws in a few places, in which case 15 draws should be enough</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P8. 4. 15 m. No bolts. Climb a bit to the right, than back to the left to a two-bolt belay, Two shoulder length slings can be used for protection, tying off some shrubs.</span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">P9 3+ Traverse straight left on the sloping ledge. A rope can be nice for the first 15-20 m. </span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Continue to traverse the ledge and exit like Classe Montagne Épinal, or why not finish with the last two beautiful pitches of Belle et Berbère (6b+ and 6b+), if you haven’t climbed that before.</span></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RrWKd8m3cmeeNyoiyQtGX5yCNdZzlw8MwwX3EyjCJOUoMOAEI2Q8oFUYzdGO3q_WKQEAbiqW4xu8atJ0HnHE7-I4n0u1yyHiH2YwsxRG5Y8h73lSerb_8g3D169hJ_EBPxP6dM1jTAd2/s1600/Morroco-85.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RrWKd8m3cmeeNyoiyQtGX5yCNdZzlw8MwwX3EyjCJOUoMOAEI2Q8oFUYzdGO3q_WKQEAbiqW4xu8atJ0HnHE7-I4n0u1yyHiH2YwsxRG5Y8h73lSerb_8g3D169hJ_EBPxP6dM1jTAd2/s640/Morroco-85.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-72854034136829152382016-03-10T19:20:00.000+01:002016-03-11T11:51:07.228+01:00Czech sandstone meet 2012. Adrspach and Teplice. Various routes<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 18px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdVXrP-Q2JD9tU3H4qcVmIzqqImb-HdB8aYt6jM3HrQwmAoukaJ0LDxD3fazrePWhGblb3fDb46q3R2jNWURJVvxBx7ufr3o49mkUJlhXv0n_iKkcjjAWkzzI7GBUfPXtjfdlbji_sVBX/s1600/RadekLoRes-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdVXrP-Q2JD9tU3H4qcVmIzqqImb-HdB8aYt6jM3HrQwmAoukaJ0LDxD3fazrePWhGblb3fDb46q3R2jNWURJVvxBx7ufr3o49mkUJlhXv0n_iKkcjjAWkzzI7GBUfPXtjfdlbji_sVBX/s640/RadekLoRes-8.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Me about to switch from off-width to chimney on <i>Original Route</i> on Mayor's Wife. Photo: Radek Linerth</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 14px;">“Only a fool can fall out of a chimney.” True. But then, what do you call someone who gets lost in one?</span><span style="font-size: 14px;"> </span></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Of all the chimneys we climbed during the international Czech sandstone meeting in 2012 the one that stands out most in my memory is the <i>Original route</i> (Stará cesta) to the top of the Mayor's wife (Starostová) in Adršpach. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The first pitch started with a hand-crack somewhere deep inside a rock labyrinth, followed by a bit of sideways chuffing in one chimney which lead to a three-way junction when it met another major chimney. After some confused back-and-forth shouting with local chimney-aficionado Tomáš Vidlák, I got the impression that I was supposed to take the left junction, and continue across a smaller side-chimney up and diagonally across the wide chimney to the tower on the left. Since I judged the rope-drag to be “impossible” (for some reason I often find the drag bad just before climbing starts to be scary…) I instead turned in to the side-chimney and made a body belay to bring up Tomáš and Stefan.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis502m4KuKviuLB7CN_M4TrTji13IcaPT9kZ5Bb51WsonUwn48j3mTsUI_HyMNQiPTCNVxRb77rn3p7UZQSvTKETtB-OTZOE_YqoZXWj63WEu2xL77yMjpMpDCnth47uzKSEolvJtVwUAG/s1600/SandstoneLoRes-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis502m4KuKviuLB7CN_M4TrTji13IcaPT9kZ5Bb51WsonUwn48j3mTsUI_HyMNQiPTCNVxRb77rn3p7UZQSvTKETtB-OTZOE_YqoZXWj63WEu2xL77yMjpMpDCnth47uzKSEolvJtVwUAG/s400/SandstoneLoRes-21.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Stefan is leading us out of the darkness into the ... light?</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
It turned out that I was supposed to just go diagonally up in the left arm for ten meters or so until a hidden bolt in the chimney could be reached. The chimney was extraordinarily green and wide enough not to feel super safe anymore, so I was very thankful that Stefan led that part. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Stefan was perhaps not quite as thankful to take the lead, especially after he failed applying one of the fine tricks our host had shown us: when approaching a ring bolt that you really want to clip as soon as possible, take a double shoulder-length spectra sling and lasso it to the pin (only works for the old style square pins on ancient routes). If the bolt is drilled in vertically or in slight downward direction, as is often the case with old bolts, the sling should give you a body-weight top-rope anchor.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The bolt that Stefan failed to lasso was old and almost rusted through. (Note: In four days of climbing it was the only bad bolt we saw.) The next pitch was an easy off-width to more wide chimneying, followed by a last pitch with an easy hand crack which led to the top. But that feeling of getting lost in a maze of dark green chimneys will stay with me for some time. Weird and exhilarating.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; min-height: 12px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEklu4uoWaHNjB-JO0Cw0nXKHcZcUvTPIckfbtFOPm74-CgYRL9JIFEBSQXFgSJYcXWdZF8BA_bfIzk8CoEpijJ2vREURcpnP6AggUZzNn4nq6D-p6xkJh965BuoGAuYaYF63HqaVyLzz/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEklu4uoWaHNjB-JO0Cw0nXKHcZcUvTPIckfbtFOPm74-CgYRL9JIFEBSQXFgSJYcXWdZF8BA_bfIzk8CoEpijJ2vREURcpnP6AggUZzNn4nq6D-p6xkJh965BuoGAuYaYF63HqaVyLzz/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-28.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Heikki Karla on the last pitch of the Original route of Mayor's wife, Adrspach. Finally some gear!</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>Sandstone subculture</b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The towers overlooking Elbe valley in Saxony, Germany, form the cradle of modern free climbing. That is quite natural. There is something very satisfying and primal in climbing a freestanding tower, especially by its natural route, and even more satisfying when the easiest route is challenging.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizU8EEU06E2ssTvuJXRLUwRnrrhV_moG6kxRbQ6e4dc95NVi1WGrDSvUQvvwv4QxDXPI0Jvn0oshbOE7ANcZrAUXMy5S3o3MslQjlCBbcMmPKETtx8zo_U_8LR8aN4kDRJJ2h_QmjCUdB/s1600/6235353317_aebdcd53c7_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizU8EEU06E2ssTvuJXRLUwRnrrhV_moG6kxRbQ6e4dc95NVi1WGrDSvUQvvwv4QxDXPI0Jvn0oshbOE7ANcZrAUXMy5S3o3MslQjlCBbcMmPKETtx8zo_U_8LR8aN4kDRJJ2h_QmjCUdB/s640/6235353317_aebdcd53c7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towers in the Elbe Sandsteingebrige in Germany, close to the border of the Czech republic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
In a chimney the leader’s body in itself is a form of protection, and so many of the <i>Alte Weg</i> (literarily the “Old way” or Original route) follow chimneys.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
As the ability rose among the tower-aficionados in Saxony the cracks they ascended got narrower, or wider, and faces they climbed steeper, or less featured. They developed two kinds of protection: rudimentary wedges in the form of knotted slings and absolutely bomber ring bolts drilled deep into the sandstone.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
In the beginning of the last century Saxon climbers took their craft across the border to Bohemia; first, further down the Elbe river valley, then all the way to the Bohemian highland, to the magnificent towers around the villages of <i>Adršpach</i> and <i>Teplice</i>.</div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3R4R6y_HovSTrXl13hTMc93poxubj9TGAXPO_mnixPTEQTs9-mjxUU290DjQmkTKf0N31QEVU1uVGnMwYVgGtlwcqDccfZCRb9ac8SdMQPQq56oAzG4KxFlBE4_qj2E9DpHcK8b3l9QHy/s1600/0080AdrSpach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3R4R6y_HovSTrXl13hTMc93poxubj9TGAXPO_mnixPTEQTs9-mjxUU290DjQmkTKf0N31QEVU1uVGnMwYVgGtlwcqDccfZCRb9ac8SdMQPQq56oAzG4KxFlBE4_qj2E9DpHcK8b3l9QHy/s640/0080AdrSpach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 10px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">View of Adr rock city from the top of the Major (Starosta)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; min-height: 12px;">
<br />
<span id="goog_2002191134"></span></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
For better and for worse Saxony and Bohemia are deeply conservative regions.. Many of the taboos and rules of their first climbers still hold. Among these rules are: <i>no metal protection</i> in the cracks—only threads and slings, <i>no chalk</i>, <i>minimum amount of bolts</i>, and <i>new routes must be put up ground-up.</i></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<i></i><br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Last year, when climbing in Elbsandstein on the German side, my friend Erik Massih remarked that it was like climbing in a museum. A fitting description, I think.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The strict rules of Bohemian and Saxon sandstone climbing have kept the towers removed from the mainstream, and made climbing on them a subculture, even in Germany and in the Czech Republic. This situation is not helped by the wide-eyed depiction of climbing there in foreign climbing media.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The Czech climbing federation is rightly worried about how the sandstone climbing is described as something deadly serious and only for people with a deep-rooted death wish. Inspired by the yearly BMC meeting, the federation decided to create a climbing meet to show the possibilities of their beloved sandstone areas.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Adršpach was thus chosen as the destination for the first Czech international trad- climbing meet, and climbers from Finland, Sweden, Belgium, Romania, Poland, and the Netherlands came to climb with Czech and Slovak hosts.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #0433ff; font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/%22">http://www.adr-rock.cz</a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The first night of the meet we were given some useful accessory cord to tie into knots from Rock Empire, a company that partly sponsored the meet, and were treated to a few nice old movies showing some brave souls doing first ascents in the 60s. In my mind a factor-2 fall is never to be contemplated by the safe leader, so it was interesting to see the Czech old-timers thinking nothing of taking repeated long falls directly onto the anchor when failing to find a way up.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The first morning was a bit wet and we went up to <i>Křížový vrch</i> (“Cross hill”) for some shorter routes, well -protected with knots. The Czech chimney-fanatic Tomáš Vidlák was hosting the Nordic contingent, formed by Stefan Lindström and myself from Sweden, and Perttu Ollila and Heikki Karla from Finland. After a few minutes of instruction in the art of placing knots we were ready to go.</div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWPl7XAk0aWCUq9gpL9l7El3kngXeicIjonsWfoLRwAcm3QQm68vXjWleos4Ph1PXozwL6_xA7Zw4kJ4OxUgTCqXgbzogT6ItiMS7DGmwtNqgYyDMQOPyRLBsrfc6VNbONJTqE0uhH41D/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWPl7XAk0aWCUq9gpL9l7El3kngXeicIjonsWfoLRwAcm3QQm68vXjWleos4Ph1PXozwL6_xA7Zw4kJ4OxUgTCqXgbzogT6ItiMS7DGmwtNqgYyDMQOPyRLBsrfc6VNbONJTqE0uhH41D/s400/TjeckiskSandsten-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">Tomáš Vidlák, </span><span style="text-align: start;">Perttu Ollila and Heikki Karla on a small tower on Cross Hill</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b></b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Quite soon Tomáš discovered that we did not mind groveling up hard but ridiculously low-graded green wet chimneys and a tour of some very “classic” chimneys up the taller spires in Adr followed.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_G4incvYvAG8jvADp0oVErUhKCnHWAenc9rNN7mTq09sG16e-kM7G3ZsVh_XMmeM1eVZNU-Fg0Ui6i8wczU9GquLAiZPx-1a5Fx5HrOmA0HwAifWtuwn91IkxXYDeYud-wsBzO8XnXIqd/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_G4incvYvAG8jvADp0oVErUhKCnHWAenc9rNN7mTq09sG16e-kM7G3ZsVh_XMmeM1eVZNU-Fg0Ui6i8wczU9GquLAiZPx-1a5Fx5HrOmA0HwAifWtuwn91IkxXYDeYud-wsBzO8XnXIqd/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Perttu Ollila on the exciting full body stem between the towers on the way to the top of the Mayor, Adrspach</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Adršpach rock makes for a very special style of climbing. The climbing is not like anything else, really. The sandstone is quite soft and feels very sandy and in places slippery too. The cracks are often featureless, flaring, and generally unforgiving, and smearing on the slabs takes some time getting used to. Maybe imagining a Fontainebleau with 100 m tall boulders could approximate it.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
After a rainy rest day midweek we moved a few kilometreskilometers up the road to Teplice to climb with another of our hosts, the eternally cheerful Oťas Srovnal. Teplice has more solid sandstone and the climbing is more similar in style to other sandstone areas I've been to.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Teplice is also more of a “sport climbing” destination. There are plenty of face routes only protected by bolts and threads. Note that the threads are rarely fixed, so bring a couple of slings on all routes, even if you judge the route to be fully equipped.</div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 12px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 11px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kz8ZllLBzrgt8jUJ9ExDehK2E6OqAMN0WoP4I5OWP7AxEgjmS-UkOth9-ZbAaX7DhF-hbBiI8Z3ZjEvn3J0jF7S_MC9Y71mU6FOtASQdCDoJOQP_adOO5RDVrq0XJAV3081eSpr8zc1S/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-76.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kz8ZllLBzrgt8jUJ9ExDehK2E6OqAMN0WoP4I5OWP7AxEgjmS-UkOth9-ZbAaX7DhF-hbBiI8Z3ZjEvn3J0jF7S_MC9Y71mU6FOtASQdCDoJOQP_adOO5RDVrq0XJAV3081eSpr8zc1S/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-76.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Gotická mlíko IXc, Martinské Steny. (Gothic milk IXc, Martin Walls)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 10px; min-height: 17px;">
<br />
<b></b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Even if Teplice involves predominantly face climbing, there are some excellent cracks there too. Among them we did the aptly named roof crack <i>Prásknutí bičem</i> (“Whiplash crack”), probably the best hand crack I climbed in 2012. There is a bomber thread just before the roof and then nothing until a ring well above the overhang, so the name alludes to what would be the consequences of a fall. I flashed it with Heikki's encouraging beta ringing in my ears: “it is a hand crack, tight yellow camalot, there is no way you can fall off.”</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<div style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo66wr76t-44GTT1Oi5kJ8K34jo3Tse0ZOPACoWiQSe2POjBPlrhfFTNJVlSFASiPlcLSfy2conFLFlZFeNQJV0dKShyphenhyphen5WLyqp0XzUKtoPUQ5mRiNP602b_hXf6p0ovc6pngRyJRzJlPNM/s1600/ot4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo66wr76t-44GTT1Oi5kJ8K34jo3Tse0ZOPACoWiQSe2POjBPlrhfFTNJVlSFASiPlcLSfy2conFLFlZFeNQJV0dKShyphenhyphen5WLyqp0XzUKtoPUQ5mRiNP602b_hXf6p0ovc6pngRyJRzJlPNM/s320/ot4.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Me on <i style="text-align: start;">Prásknutí bičem</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcdhrK31cWujUIi4PvkM9qbs9L-XU5tc5IQZCB6O0KpuhYYswiPZjJHu8owK3sc7t3okkoXxS-FDKIDZuaLAWL3Gncz3ckyuuct32IPG_31hZiVsvgXsfvUNB2rN1BrWulT5WquK0FmcB/s1600/ot5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcdhrK31cWujUIi4PvkM9qbs9L-XU5tc5IQZCB6O0KpuhYYswiPZjJHu8owK3sc7t3okkoXxS-FDKIDZuaLAWL3Gncz3ckyuuct32IPG_31hZiVsvgXsfvUNB2rN1BrWulT5WquK0FmcB/s320/ot5.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><i style="text-align: start;">Prásknutí bičem, </i><span style="text-align: start;">photo: Ota</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUY_v9GLv5-JosI-MwryTj7eBQLcEcCXcBTbilervgR5vmbylM2GnErftm0TdymWVng0BKki7dghddK89hQVV-0UQDcQcuDGu4XspAya4Bs_xEKcTsm8GojvKmjgDi3e46iDQQboG6UKO/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUY_v9GLv5-JosI-MwryTj7eBQLcEcCXcBTbilervgR5vmbylM2GnErftm0TdymWVng0BKki7dghddK89hQVV-0UQDcQcuDGu4XspAya4Bs_xEKcTsm8GojvKmjgDi3e46iDQQboG6UKO/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-56.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Ota topping out <i style="text-align: start;">Prásknutí bičem, </i><span style="text-align: start;">Teplice</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px;">
For climbers like me who have used camming devices since starting climbing, cracks are the safest routes possible. Having to use knots for protection changes the game completely, however, and make repeating cracks more mentally exhausting than repeating face climbs, at least for those of us not totally confident in our ability to properly place and judge knots.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; min-height: 12px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHI1rEXsLUSrOWFPOPPxU7XS7RSSE0GLiCccqp-oIZNMLtaOoTFlNySOOgrGfbrB41Do4pZt3D8l7QcF5NsnLoDxDA8rdOiIlCk_X-Qe3yqqEUrbpMUKam4gOnVZz8cfXF58uwIH6HjWvv/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHI1rEXsLUSrOWFPOPPxU7XS7RSSE0GLiCccqp-oIZNMLtaOoTFlNySOOgrGfbrB41Do4pZt3D8l7QcF5NsnLoDxDA8rdOiIlCk_X-Qe3yqqEUrbpMUKam4gOnVZz8cfXF58uwIH6HjWvv/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-68.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Stefan Lindström warming up on Otas’s route Endoskop on Church wall</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 10px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 10px;">
<span style="font-family: "adobe garamond pro"; font-size: 14px;">Among the face routes we did in Teplice I particularly enjoyed a quite new one on Martinské stěny called </span><i style="font-family: 'adobe garamond pro'; font-size: 14px;">Stroboskop</i><span style="font-family: "adobe garamond pro"; font-size: 14px;">. Well-protected fun face climbing for almost 50 meters. It was also very popular, the only route we had to wait in line to get on.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
During evenings we where treated with slide shows by Czech climbers active in putting up new routes all over the world, and also a slide show by Slovak legend Igor Koller (first-ascensionist of <i>The fish</i> on, Marmolada among other things).</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 12px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: 'times new roman'; font-size: 11px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iu1iCTaInDOiK_rgvsmHQzYoY9nPIe54EYVvRC5Qf6X0Lo36e2kpp4k-5iZbU8b1fYUzgfLGNjiLIWG7GYJ-JB2Gx4JB6MvueNV1YGOCyRhpnfhd5QsVu4ISAWyYDzlvCyNG2iRMEJ2Z/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iu1iCTaInDOiK_rgvsmHQzYoY9nPIe54EYVvRC5Qf6X0Lo36e2kpp4k-5iZbU8b1fYUzgfLGNjiLIWG7GYJ-JB2Gx4JB6MvueNV1YGOCyRhpnfhd5QsVu4ISAWyYDzlvCyNG2iRMEJ2Z/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-74.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><b style="text-align: start;">I</b><span style="text-align: start;">gor Koller repeats his classic route Kalamárky in Teplice. The second ring was put in after the first ascent.</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 10px; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 10px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Tomáš Sobotka, a very experienced climber with some impressive big wall free routes to his name also gave a slide show. Among other things, he talked enthusiastically about the possibilities for really hard face climbs on Czech sandstone, and his belief that there are many hard routes with Fountainebleau-style slapping on bad slopers waiting to be put up by a new generation, and indeed, Adam Ondra has already put up a route in the French 9a grade.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
From what I’ve seen I am sure that Sobotka is right. However, to push hard on sandstone towers in Saxony or Bohemia seems to be a local privilege, and not even exceptionally good visiting climbers have made much of a mark.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3z2brDzEy8JUpmt5ON6hYusFqTg3jBEkmcf__zxFWr1tUt_0rZ2zUy0mGZaB11x0bmtKNrNvC6jMEYJsHvwJ4PMAXt3v_9Fk9ZqavAOOhl5UbYG-XHwMmDOcEE90KUMStDOV9tHP5IEBJ/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-61.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3z2brDzEy8JUpmt5ON6hYusFqTg3jBEkmcf__zxFWr1tUt_0rZ2zUy0mGZaB11x0bmtKNrNvC6jMEYJsHvwJ4PMAXt3v_9Fk9ZqavAOOhl5UbYG-XHwMmDOcEE90KUMStDOV9tHP5IEBJ/s640/TjeckiskSandsten-61.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Stefan Lindström cruising Převislá on Věž přátelství, Teplice</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: normal;">
I have climbed on sandstone in Utah, Kentucky, Nevada, France and Germany, but I must say that Teplice is still probably my favourite sandstone area since it has a little of everything: pockets, edges, slopers, and cracks of all sizes.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Tentatively the Czech federation is planning a similar meeting for 2014, and if so, and were you to have a chance to go, – my only advice is: take it and enjoy the ride!</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
One of the excellent event organisers, the Czech climbing guide Radek Lienerth has a write up (in Czech) on http://www.lezec.cz/clanky.php?key=10553 </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>Gear</b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Bring the following</div>
<ul>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1 wooden or plastic stick on a leach to help pushing in knots into slots, and to use as a knot extractor. This is the most important piece of equipment. Without it the knotted slings are rendered useless.</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1 sling from 5 mm accessory cord, 175 cm long</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1 sling from 6 mm accessory cord, 175 cm long</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1-2 slings from 7 mm accessory cord, 175 cm long each</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1-2 slings from 8 mm accessory cord, 175 cm long each</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">3-4 slings from old 9 mm climbing rope, 180 cm long each</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">3-4 slings from old 10-11 mm climbing rope, 180 cm long each</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1-2 Monkey's fists from old climbing rope. They take quite a while to tie.</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Maybe a few lengths of tape as well.</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">10 quickdraws.</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">2-3 triple runners/alpine draws</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">60 m rope</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Free biners for the knotted slings</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">2-3 double shoulder length slings for chockstones etc.</li>
<li style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Tape for jam gloves, or ready-made rubber jammies. All three manufacturers I know for rubber hand-jammies are based in the Czech republic. This is not a coincidence.</li>
</ul>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
Notes: When tying the knots leave a good 20 cm tail. The easiest way to take out the knots when following is to grab the tail and pull upwards.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
On the old style rings there is plenty of room for two quickdraws. It is normal to clip two draws in opposition on every ring. The rings seem to be very solid. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Long factor two falls onto single rings was de rigueur for would-be first ascensionists in the 60s. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2KTQNXLqj9vj0evMJeGh_gyps79w7b6VY4TSpRqeWGBj3dfoIwJDxzgoQObV2si5P08piCpB5ERyUUlsrWP6isQDXwJSgcX6_52wVUTI3jVM7epDyilqzQdsXUTreO7NxMcKFxOl3i1L/s1600/TjeckiskSandsten-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2KTQNXLqj9vj0evMJeGh_gyps79w7b6VY4TSpRqeWGBj3dfoIwJDxzgoQObV2si5P08piCpB5ERyUUlsrWP6isQDXwJSgcX6_52wVUTI3jVM7epDyilqzQdsXUTreO7NxMcKFxOl3i1L/s400/TjeckiskSandsten-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Tomas and Sefan sorting gear in the morning</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>Guidebooks</b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Problem. There are no foreign language guidebooks to Adr and Teplice in print that I know of. The current Czech guide book for Teplice has some useful topos for a few of the nicer face climbing sectors, but is mostly text based. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The Czech guidebook for Adr is fully text based, and very terse too. There is a select guidebook in German for Adr, but it is out of print, and difficult to get hold of.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>Grades</b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
My wide crack-climbing and pistol-shooting mentor Alf in Moab will be pleased to know that grades are considered to be the intellectual property of the first-ascensionist. Only they can change the grade. Thus the grades might not be as predictable as we in the fast-food generation would like them to be.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Generally speaking, the routes are safer the harder and newer they are. Above French 7a/UK E4 or so there are plenty of routes to choose from where a ground fall would be implausible.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
The grade is given by a roman numeral. For grade VII and up Latin letters a, b, or c are used as subdivision.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Any grade conversion table is a fiction in the best of times, but I nevertheless include a rough guide. For more detailed fiction, please refer to Wikipedia. </div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>I-IV</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>This is probably a chimney. Can be easy or hard, but only a fool will fall out of a chimney, right? It can also be a trivial face route. A grade III chimney could be pretty far from trivial.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>IV-V</b> <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>You should be fine. This is an old route, so protection might be scarce but the climbing should not be too hard. Might involve slab climbing, juggy face climbing, or fist cracks.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>VI</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Translation tables claim that this is around Hard Severe. Makes sense. Climbers where braking in to this grade before the turn or the old-old century, making this grade quite unpredictable. Worst case scenario is that it is a 70 year old friction slab.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>VII</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Many old routes that follow striking lines are this grade. HVS+ or 5.9+ says it all.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>VIII</b> <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Still on the most striking natural lines. Often quite pumpy. Prepare to fight for it.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>IX</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Some of the master pieces from the 70s have this grade. Think 6c or E3/4 and up. If it looks bold it probably is.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>X</b><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mostly safe and hard, or if it was put up by Berndt Arnold in the 70/80s: unsafe and hard. E6 and up. There is probably a bolt every 5-7 meters or so. Or it could be death on a stick.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
<b>Rules and reality, a footnote</b></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
Some of the rules, and my own comments and interpretations. All eventual misunderstandings are my own.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
1) <i>No metal gear in the cracks, only knots and slings</i>. In recent years a new form of expanding sling chock, dubbed “ufo”, has been developed in the Czech republic. We tried one and found them quite trustworthy. Otherwise the crack protection is the same as hundred years ago: different form of knots in slings.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
2) <i>No chalk</i>. Chalk-use is a source of real controversy in the Czech republic. Not so much in Germany since chalk is illegal in Elbe valley. However, in some areas on the Czech side sparing use of chalk is sort-of OK on non crack climbs of sufficiently high difficulty. Suffice to say that this is a sensitive subject and that I recommend to do without everywhere.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
3) <i>All new routes must be put up ground up</i>. In Saxony the mere suspicion that parts of a new route where inspected on rappel has been ground for removal of bolts and the first ascent claim. In Teplice bolts where recently chopped when it transpired that they where drilled from rappel.</div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; min-height: 17px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
4) <i>No aid climbing</i>. What the Victorians dubbed “combined tactics”, where the leader climbs up the body of other climbers is OK, but none of the team can be hanging from protection to make the ascent valid. It seems to be OK to drill from aid stances as long as you climb free up to it, and on modern hard face routes in Czech most lead-bolts are drilled from improved hooks (bat hooking) or rivets, (after the lead bolt has been placed the first hole is glued shut).</div>
<br />
<div style="font-family: 'Adobe Garamond Pro'; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;">
5) <i>Minimum amount of bolts</i>. This rule has been understood different through time and is interpreted a bit differently depending on area. Suffice to say that fully bolted routes are few and far between and that they seldom are what we have started to call “sport routes” (i.e. fully and closely bolted short routes).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-13531756962907497822016-03-08T18:27:00.000+01:002016-03-09T11:01:42.840+01:00Sud-Est Directe, 540 m, 6c>6a at Pointe Jean Santé, Pic du Midi d'Ossau<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUmUQqTGAki8TJNjakHA10jUgIgJEq5xLfL2Lq_k_qlwSr6ytjRajQxFutRodO6ec4rwztnRf2sfG_yvInpIHhBKJbew8xrJP5EZuM2k4d7YozR94sp_e3urjh2sLmhCGuCBnoioyF9ji/s1600/10382389_10152170446786603_6046086770734993568_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUmUQqTGAki8TJNjakHA10jUgIgJEq5xLfL2Lq_k_qlwSr6ytjRajQxFutRodO6ec4rwztnRf2sfG_yvInpIHhBKJbew8xrJP5EZuM2k4d7YozR94sp_e3urjh2sLmhCGuCBnoioyF9ji/s400/10382389_10152170446786603_6046086770734993568_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia on the approach to Pic du Midi d'Osseau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If you for some reason end up close to the border between France and Spain in the summer and are trying to find cool rock, there are very few good options unless you head for the mountains. One option is to go to the classic “Climber's peak” Pic du Midi d'Osseau in the French Pyrenees.<br />
<br />
All routes, even the normal route, are rather involved. This is not Chamonix. There are no fixed belays, at least none that you would happily rappel off. Even the most straightforward routes require double ropes, a big rack with lots of small gear, and a good nose for finding solid safe climbing. The mountain is of andesite, a volcanic rock that is quite slick with mostly thin cracks.<br />
<br />
The mountain is interesting on all sides, so getting down involves scrambling, easy climbing and rappelling.<br />
<br />
When we climbed the route we did not need crampons or axes to cross the randkluft (<i>rimaye</i> in french and catalan). We called the guardians of the refugio next to the mountain to enquire about the snow conditions and if we would need to bring crampons. The guardians where hesitant to give a clear answer, which was understandable as it was a marginal call.</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
When I looked on the topo, our chosen route, <i>Sud-Est Directe</i> looked like an easy day out—for a 500 m route anyway. In reality it took us a long time to get up and down the route, I don't remember the time exactly but we managed to return to the refugio just in time for the dinner so it must have been around 12 hours.<br />
<br />
The pitch-grades on Sud-Est Directe is of the typically parsimonious Pyrenées's standard. The same holds true for other routes I've heard.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>The route, some pitch notes</b></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Bearing in mind that we climbed this in 2014 and I did not write down any notes, take everything I say with some grain of salt. I'm sure it's all true, but I might miss some crucial details.<br />
<br />
The approach was very easy, about 20 min from the refugio/camping. The first pitch is easy and nondescript, but the second pitch is one of the hardest, with fairly complex terrain (6b+, the main problem is to find a good combination of good gear and easy climbing).</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8LV7dETK3gZXBGPzwcon7o4dBL83TLJDHO93pzZHSxWwodOVVqdjS1dZbdkr31vTSA41NYTs48hJlFrlclVfxYRIWnQdgj7HO1AMsp6vm0zu3YvkBq7LXVj_Vj3ljII0VWNiJTaEU-TnZ/s1600/10495000_10152170446796603_3774901478341490471_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8LV7dETK3gZXBGPzwcon7o4dBL83TLJDHO93pzZHSxWwodOVVqdjS1dZbdkr31vTSA41NYTs48hJlFrlclVfxYRIWnQdgj7HO1AMsp6vm0zu3YvkBq7LXVj_Vj3ljII0VWNiJTaEU-TnZ/s400/10495000_10152170446796603_3774901478341490471_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia following the 2nd pitch<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A few easy pitches leads up to a cool ledge with a very cool hanging tree before the crux pitch.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwlo7Ra9gXoL_ew6lJwL1a6UJYOyD_4-DSGnH0RpXk5NyY67vaNrHfVI0X1TZ0NLlo4WiKL14AJ26ggTl22JRpsmJjoK7xcs2nlvnuCac7707EEXmVPLhiZBmh7-_gmY7-uq4zTnVI1So/s1600/906612_10152170446386603_995124729860795824_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwlo7Ra9gXoL_ew6lJwL1a6UJYOyD_4-DSGnH0RpXk5NyY67vaNrHfVI0X1TZ0NLlo4WiKL14AJ26ggTl22JRpsmJjoK7xcs2nlvnuCac7707EEXmVPLhiZBmh7-_gmY7-uq4zTnVI1So/s400/906612_10152170446386603_995124729860795824_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Javi belaying from a mighty flake on top of pitch 4...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Julia found a good belay in the shade....</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7ELDap1TWFF8x2caDa_B2j8CcIOVd3AGstp1vMn_ujEFRyuFo_NQibNqbw_k9AASRAWK7q7zaNw4NARnHx-lhPvccBwBFi0mkoMaYgRpLIDTjoUpt1UhwOHNLqHF9xM6QSzlUPxLUsts/s1600/10295029_10203709055143656_2335023177289804997_o-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7ELDap1TWFF8x2caDa_B2j8CcIOVd3AGstp1vMn_ujEFRyuFo_NQibNqbw_k9AASRAWK7q7zaNw4NARnHx-lhPvccBwBFi0mkoMaYgRpLIDTjoUpt1UhwOHNLqHF9xM6QSzlUPxLUsts/s400/10295029_10203709055143656_2335023177289804997_o-2.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">....while Julia is belaying in the shade before Pitch 5. Photo: Javier Aranda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The crux pitch (6c) had some really nice climbing up to a short boulder problem in an open grove. The crack in the bottom of the groove was too thin for my fingers, but I could find a sequence with mostly stemming and face holds. Very pleasurable pitch up to an obvious belay.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_fNww1YFkPp4V6cl4MMvstmvhwjOo005cwXYnUpSyK-ckARAaCwD1-qTk_QYv_35iEYRjcz_SU24KClHDF5BQe2wxnGxzp9S7wn-5EuDG8VsH6HtNUf8jLxjW1tqA0t1SZxkxjUYBDQ1/s1600/10339421_10152170446446603_5544724115548741456_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_fNww1YFkPp4V6cl4MMvstmvhwjOo005cwXYnUpSyK-ckARAaCwD1-qTk_QYv_35iEYRjcz_SU24KClHDF5BQe2wxnGxzp9S7wn-5EuDG8VsH6HtNUf8jLxjW1tqA0t1SZxkxjUYBDQ1/s400/10339421_10152170446446603_5544724115548741456_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joaquim above the difficulties of pitch 5.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
From there the climbing started to be surprisingly sustained. The pitches followed generally a big corner system and the line is mostly quite obvious.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HrhAmgOCQ56Yve_kIPDwLH7Nc1bmL-Hau_QAL6UaNa59Wi-qwAIgrC_B-Zm3Ng-cIHpPA81i2FA9lmbpQzuNBucPTKLn6udZt7o5lCKq1Sr5uhOJWXCZwmJKDtd8telDInzx4Y5ibBVI/s1600/10535692_10203709059383762_8422360139713817310_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HrhAmgOCQ56Yve_kIPDwLH7Nc1bmL-Hau_QAL6UaNa59Wi-qwAIgrC_B-Zm3Ng-cIHpPA81i2FA9lmbpQzuNBucPTKLn6udZt7o5lCKq1Sr5uhOJWXCZwmJKDtd8telDInzx4Y5ibBVI/s400/10535692_10203709059383762_8422360139713817310_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joaquim climbing somewhere on the route. Probably on pitch 9. Photo: Javier Aranda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
On pitch ten the original line keeps going straight up the ever steeper dihedral at A1, while the most common way to climb it now is by finding a tricky traverse out left to a hidden dihedral (6a). I missed the true line of the traverse and climbed to high up on ground protected by inadequate fixed gear (6b+, at one point I clipped a fixed cam-hook...). One or two of the smaller ball nuts would have been lovely. The best line should be easy enough to find if you pay attention to the topo (or in my case: if I'd payed attention to what my partner told me).</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWyQUG93sFSeQI6dVzFPcHwF3vMPam0JsaknOtwhquJLPng875IIzZvrOnKjSrRbH67z1-96aXw9IwEfhmiT1MymUm3hxsCWJ_SByFu0bTDk15Q3vsB28_5lQKaVmcpct5RLz9xPpv16O/s1600/10549927_10203709061383812_8280443481364878399_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWyQUG93sFSeQI6dVzFPcHwF3vMPam0JsaknOtwhquJLPng875IIzZvrOnKjSrRbH67z1-96aXw9IwEfhmiT1MymUm3hxsCWJ_SByFu0bTDk15Q3vsB28_5lQKaVmcpct5RLz9xPpv16O/s400/10549927_10203709061383812_8280443481364878399_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me being a bit uncomfortable on the tenth pitch. Photo Javier Aranda </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our catalan friends, who found it hilarious that I complained about the pitons, were clearly held back by us at this point,.<br />
<br />
The following two pitches were surprisingly difficult and should not be treated lightly. Then easier climbing follows to the top of Pointe Jean Santé. I suppose it is possible to link this route, which finishes on the subsidiary (Pointe Jean Santé) with a route up to the prominent peak of Pic du Midi d'Ossau, but like most we were totally satistifed having done Sud-Est Directe.<br />
<br />
The decent was a bit tricky and I recommend to find a good topo of this, and to talk with the guardians as well. The decent is a mixture of scrambling, easy fifth-class downclimbing (many pitons and fixed threads) and rappelling which leads back to the glacier on the west flank. We were able to cross the randkluft (bergschrund) and downclimb the glacier using sharp rocks as improvised ice tools. For this decent, stiff soled boots are better than trainers or approach shoes.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtUoLvilzfr1KmWSt2PZeuHwtgANGa8ADBQORsbhqY2R7Cl67deHmZgEghZTKkh-6omQor0ncvecqkRNa3sonPlgVmfrGAXN1MUk_6lnPpDaJocEtHeFh53f86Ia5rgrwbUJX5pdHLqHX/s1600/10344227_10152170445626603_7591060238251305155_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtUoLvilzfr1KmWSt2PZeuHwtgANGa8ADBQORsbhqY2R7Cl67deHmZgEghZTKkh-6omQor0ncvecqkRNa3sonPlgVmfrGAXN1MUk_6lnPpDaJocEtHeFh53f86Ia5rgrwbUJX5pdHLqHX/s320/10344227_10152170445626603_7591060238251305155_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refuge de Pombier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Back at camp—while you enjoy your evening meal in the Pompie Refugio (reservations needed) or by your tent on the idyllic green field by the small nearby lake—take some time to reflect on Serge Castéran's amazing solo enchainment of Sud-Est Directe with Le Plilier de l'Embarradère and Le Pilier Sud, done in a day in the late 80s. Almost unimaginable considering the insecure complex climbing some of the pitches offers. Castéran's solo got very little press at the time. Crazy.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSK42gzHLBqsogYOnpRT5ll-F6JVnUYQYlDSCtYMgjJOryoT64_bpMD9IUoUPZCB7S-UATj9ivGNTa9xB6-k0MijbP9PRJMmZFkAaUa054HRR9Ztq-b0u76xrPKkR49Ed1Arx7GgG7FRz/s1600/10484173_10152170446266603_3505666791392384509_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSK42gzHLBqsogYOnpRT5ll-F6JVnUYQYlDSCtYMgjJOryoT64_bpMD9IUoUPZCB7S-UATj9ivGNTa9xB6-k0MijbP9PRJMmZFkAaUa054HRR9Ztq-b0u76xrPKkR49Ed1Arx7GgG7FRz/s320/10484173_10152170446266603_3505666791392384509_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Getting there</b><br />
The mountain is just on the border between France and Spain. One and a half hours north of Huesca in Spain, and one and a half hours south of Pau in France. Park on the road a kilometer south of the border and hike up to the Pombier hut (less than an hour). I've dropped a <a href="https://27crags.com/crags/pic-du-midi-d-ossau/map">needle on 27crags.com</a> both for the peak and for the parking lot.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Staying there</b><br />
Tent or the Pombier refugio. If you're staying in the hut, or eating there, <a href="http://refugedepombie.ffcam.fr/">reserve in advance</a>. There are not many climbers around, but plenty of hikers. The guardians of the refugio are good climbers and can give detailed information about most routes. They are also willing to answer questions about the conditions etc.<br />
<br />
<b>Gear</b><br />
Double ropes and a full rack, heavy on thin gear. Until early august, an ice tool and crampons might be needed to cross the snow beneath the route or on the decent.<br />
<br />
<b>Season</b><br />
May to late September. We climbed in July and had very nice conditions.<br />
<br />
<b>More information</b><br />
As usual for this region of the world, <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/176533/fr/pic-du-midi-d-ossau">Camp to Camp is a good source</a>. There is some information on <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3209">UK Climbing</a>. This route is also <a href="http://montagne.glenatlivres.com/livre/parois-de-legende-9782723483285.htm">in the bible</a>, with a very precise topo, unfortunately without information how to get down. There is a binder of topos in the refuge.<br />
<br />
<b>Guidebook</b><br />
<i>La Vallée d'Ossau</i>, Xavier Buxo, Luis Alfonso (2011, text in French and Spanish).<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7998891179109219100.post-60043248490490606452016-03-07T14:07:00.003+01:002016-03-07T15:26:07.869+01:00Globeros en Alaska 7a>6b 250m. Mont-rebei<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Sometimes sport climbing really gets to me. Falling over and over on the same route wears me down. Then it's time to do some climbing where falling is either not an option or at least not a splendid idea.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwKKsvtXXcy_iAC-P2wePiyidkDnggHFN_wZgL_6M5_zpifbOimnYZQlS5K0i5cPMd0xgrhmac9XOUwYRuwoqTRRHELiCoyFhniNSwb75r4UFXBGgWI1pSC3b3BgB_jVip4u0zONT5Uxj/s1600/facebook-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwKKsvtXXcy_iAC-P2wePiyidkDnggHFN_wZgL_6M5_zpifbOimnYZQlS5K0i5cPMd0xgrhmac9XOUwYRuwoqTRRHELiCoyFhniNSwb75r4UFXBGgWI1pSC3b3BgB_jVip4u0zONT5Uxj/s400/facebook-12.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pared de Catalonia from the Parking.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Recently I've spent some time failing very badly on a route in Bruixes that in my imagination should be well within my abilities, and getting a bit down-hearted in the process (ridiculous, I know!) My friend Javier Aranda / <a href="https://www.facebook.com/INUIT-The-Mountain-Experience-190595594613397/">INUIT The mountain experience</a> suggested <i>Globeros en Alaska</i> (Balloonist in Alaska) in Montrebei north of Lleida as a remedy.<br />
<br />
Globeros en Alaska was put up by Alberto Salvado and friends 8-9 years ago. Alberto Salvado is one of the most fanatic new routers in Catalonia, with many new multi-pitch routes all over the region.<br />
<br />
Montrebei consist of two large walls on each side of the river: Pared de Catalonia on the east bank of the river Noguera, and Pared de Aragon on the west. The walls are between 200-500 m tall mostly of limestone with some sand-stone bands. Pictured above is the upper east side of Pared de Catalonia<br />
<br />
<b>Notes on the pitches</b><br />
From the parking lot (possible camping, but no running water) an easy 10 min hike lead to the first pitch of the route. Some face climbing past two bolts lead to a dihedral with a loose pillar in the middle: stem and place no gear behind the pillar (5+). There's a bolt halfway up.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3xWVrgSiMvpIbH_ib3NseV-OkVxjEOICsbsdJFDXGgCQMwJZdgXqcC0qahSp6CjJfg-UvKp0gqLDQ7yXekunSNeYdhbYhTLLjHTmh7Aq1trIy-FdeWFtrkHWp0TrWBfaaZZTqsFa3FV8/s1600/facebook-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3xWVrgSiMvpIbH_ib3NseV-OkVxjEOICsbsdJFDXGgCQMwJZdgXqcC0qahSp6CjJfg-UvKp0gqLDQ7yXekunSNeYdhbYhTLLjHTmh7Aq1trIy-FdeWFtrkHWp0TrWBfaaZZTqsFa3FV8/s400/facebook-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 1. 6b. Photo Javier Aranda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The second pitch was mine, a nice pitch on good solid limestone. I did a fairly hard pull above a piton (6c?) but there was apparently easier climbing out right. Belay in a bolt and a joke piton.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWnm1saZrLRkWXU2v3vkcz7RS6_eEI5AS8lOtqND8pPp7APFqk0qew5IBgP5xfS25xYU1hcuPZS6-nZUUcF6BFQttVKEebARAWkNXEf2naAwkL3VVf7DU2blroXl-OUtCymar1kVOR7Jg/s1600/facebook-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWnm1saZrLRkWXU2v3vkcz7RS6_eEI5AS8lOtqND8pPp7APFqk0qew5IBgP5xfS25xYU1hcuPZS6-nZUUcF6BFQttVKEebARAWkNXEf2naAwkL3VVf7DU2blroXl-OUtCymar1kVOR7Jg/s400/facebook-2.jpg" width="321" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start of pitch 2. Photo Javier Aranda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The third pitch started with some nice slab climbing. That's all I can remember. It was Javi's pitch anyway.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QMCwtg7AljUXkFOnr0FDyamONnw1iLJ7_Dlny80iLiRKeR0kLLWSzx6VqnQmEJpP37iy6siO3BZkxFgpHHur4PYXMKWBt08EAPeHPaAspuFkDYLzlt5RAfW-5otf71i0V11X0l5uRFAN/s1600/facebook-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QMCwtg7AljUXkFOnr0FDyamONnw1iLJ7_Dlny80iLiRKeR0kLLWSzx6VqnQmEJpP37iy6siO3BZkxFgpHHur4PYXMKWBt08EAPeHPaAspuFkDYLzlt5RAfW-5otf71i0V11X0l5uRFAN/s400/facebook-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 3. Photo Javi. The heavy-handed fake blur is all me though</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The forth pitch is the major pitch of the route, which Javi very generously handed to me. Mostly fixed gear (bolts and pitons—most of the pitons were in good condition) and one or two cams. A rising rightwards traverse lead to a small crux at an overlap, where some very good hearted climber had extended a bolt with a piece of fixed rope. Again, I had to do a tricky pull (7a+), and this time I managed to fool Javi into doing it with the same sequence (climbing with a backpack). Javi had to rest a bit and promptly found a better sequence to the left, which probably makes the climbing easier (7a). A steep sustained crack with lots of technical footwork followed, up to a bolted belay.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXyjTB9oVM9c7h2RERoyOVrf4j92uWfNLcO9bQuEeSO-l1GiJL6-aEPrevXj_3eGHaJsMOnizS0fIEVj599qOlOryRBoZe6WDUpAfOwAH571WRQfs2UlMsg7BTdbONKtDstPmrmDyQa1W/s1600/facebook-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXyjTB9oVM9c7h2RERoyOVrf4j92uWfNLcO9bQuEeSO-l1GiJL6-aEPrevXj_3eGHaJsMOnizS0fIEVj599qOlOryRBoZe6WDUpAfOwAH571WRQfs2UlMsg7BTdbONKtDstPmrmDyQa1W/s640/facebook-4.jpg" width="384" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 4. About to do something daft as per usual. Photo: Javier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpghngmUecKnD-NG2c9rIuufNZzW24TWStBPTEO1lrSPmr9Iws1k7x4R1OZgJITBp7PQJZW5KynD1rsCxMh997sK6lKraVjYgOB7MKYHvslF5gukQQ_TQiJxLAIO0_VE9-kPgJ42b5G22/s1600/facebook-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpghngmUecKnD-NG2c9rIuufNZzW24TWStBPTEO1lrSPmr9Iws1k7x4R1OZgJITBp7PQJZW5KynD1rsCxMh997sK6lKraVjYgOB7MKYHvslF5gukQQ_TQiJxLAIO0_VE9-kPgJ42b5G22/s640/facebook-5.jpg" width="384" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the top of pitch 4.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pitch 5 started up a diagonal crack on some gear that I think is fairly solid. Then there's a fairly scary runout to a bolt, especially if you're short and have to clip in the middle of the crux as my poor guide for the day... (6b+ or so). Easier but quite runout climbing follows. There were two fixed threads that should be replaced. Bring some extra 6 mm cord if the threads are still not replaced.<br />
<br />
At the top of the pitch there was some quite steep and loose traversing to get to the belay. Nothing too bad, but be careful!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_ycsUUwS0ivF3Egy4oWyDmwueeZoZlmGQoHaRftjfrpum4VlipcPNe7j8CvbDovGsQD93kl_q0FPwBPeDnVUhtyuSvGzkq-t2dy_HUVMqg1HgoZisqx2YboXp-uU7Wc_CdQu0Pd8gKxU/s1600/facebook-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_ycsUUwS0ivF3Egy4oWyDmwueeZoZlmGQoHaRftjfrpum4VlipcPNe7j8CvbDovGsQD93kl_q0FPwBPeDnVUhtyuSvGzkq-t2dy_HUVMqg1HgoZisqx2YboXp-uU7Wc_CdQu0Pd8gKxU/s400/facebook-6.jpg" width="367" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Javier Aranda past the crux of pitch 5.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht18H-CFztq7Ncw801EvMpF-Ya86D4QyPKp8l34dy_7VuygZmy-2JzXxXt-Z9szNg_W3TuD3CITflVYqEmIzVV8AXb-WY8k4900RYQE6EBos2eNiAmqn18TjPFrHhg2IsS-z7scv0F4EKo/s1600/facebook-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht18H-CFztq7Ncw801EvMpF-Ya86D4QyPKp8l34dy_7VuygZmy-2JzXxXt-Z9szNg_W3TuD3CITflVYqEmIzVV8AXb-WY8k4900RYQE6EBos2eNiAmqn18TjPFrHhg2IsS-z7scv0F4EKo/s400/facebook-7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following the 5th pitch. Not too inspiring rock on this pitch. Photo: Javier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pitch 6 was the second best pitch of the route and again Javi gave it to me. It started with some quite cool face climbing past two bolts to a short bit of expo climbing (6b, I fiddled in some mediocre gear) on very solid rock. The top of the pitch had a quite cool boulder problem that is possible harder than the original grade of the route suggest (6c+ according to the openers).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjHt0JYyGBTPxHwANrFcX2FKZEmkfa_U4B9msWCRRrNKqAyEoU37VlF3ziWA8OyKhCgrFxduv7taXiDUnMIgDKeFIhc0JU6DQT74OnLi7_GQfAhxhZLUPnnqbV9zb-4sEvHleP5hKmUvi/s1600/facebook-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="539" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjHt0JYyGBTPxHwANrFcX2FKZEmkfa_U4B9msWCRRrNKqAyEoU37VlF3ziWA8OyKhCgrFxduv7taXiDUnMIgDKeFIhc0JU6DQT74OnLi7_GQfAhxhZLUPnnqbV9zb-4sEvHleP5hKmUvi/s640/facebook-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Javi follows pitch 6</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The last pitch is quite long (50 m) and starts up steep terrain to a roof with loose rock (one bolt), after that its quite enjoyable slabby lime stone climbing to the top of the wall.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4eZ83i-E07GpkHu1OWwo4BwKEINaWhTlQbdx3ScscmsLCWGfI2n61LOb1nzmE0dMgmjq2vJqhn9VMvyYFiI0zFJsJzHGpMksgRbZ6-PqzD4NnK4CkBF2G3i43maDBtD2B-T17lYhK7tx/s1600/facebook-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4eZ83i-E07GpkHu1OWwo4BwKEINaWhTlQbdx3ScscmsLCWGfI2n61LOb1nzmE0dMgmjq2vJqhn9VMvyYFiI0zFJsJzHGpMksgRbZ6-PqzD4NnK4CkBF2G3i43maDBtD2B-T17lYhK7tx/s400/facebook-9.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Javi starting the last pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErdPlCaXD88VTPJRKADuXZwkPoBaChrGq4MvW4zQPQAwEXqBWgVpzjmA9BqijnKKCwDJSwjZVk8QaM7swsJcgTmmoMQhuWYBJHO0qvI8g-UOmx9cJkkhpwExSEF2Ol7iisLnvF9uY8CBU/s1600/facebook-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErdPlCaXD88VTPJRKADuXZwkPoBaChrGq4MvW4zQPQAwEXqBWgVpzjmA9BqijnKKCwDJSwjZVk8QaM7swsJcgTmmoMQhuWYBJHO0qvI8g-UOmx9cJkkhpwExSEF2Ol7iisLnvF9uY8CBU/s640/facebook-10.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Javi on top. Pared de Aragon in the background.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZl_n5_abcT0dfFJ5p1RtmTJqkkuV9djn649jasIoMnzDqpJhz5tkZ1noyA8JP6uz_tu98udONUGJ9xpRqc2mfTWi3p12bA6NnpZqUu5EW7lpT80po-9LqrLCfvZtEE0mn1zu170rPmSn/s1600/facebook-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZl_n5_abcT0dfFJ5p1RtmTJqkkuV9djn649jasIoMnzDqpJhz5tkZ1noyA8JP6uz_tu98udONUGJ9xpRqc2mfTWi3p12bA6NnpZqUu5EW7lpT80po-9LqrLCfvZtEE0mn1zu170rPmSn/s640/facebook-11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting off the climb just before the storm moves in, like a boss! Photo: Javier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjthisqhXVdj0AxGCye8Nisfy9lqaT7RRpICzUTxbb4TIHoI2Soge7xEwliQXeLuEZbxAJ8rdCecES4Udqv6vprCO0YwlBrU3fK6MgYFw8UfZKn-ReY_043e0KMTZ1AuWI6SVnM3zmn5FQ2/s1600/Globeros+en+Alaska.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjthisqhXVdj0AxGCye8Nisfy9lqaT7RRpICzUTxbb4TIHoI2Soge7xEwliQXeLuEZbxAJ8rdCecES4Udqv6vprCO0YwlBrU3fK6MgYFw8UfZKn-ReY_043e0KMTZ1AuWI6SVnM3zmn5FQ2/s320/Globeros+en+Alaska.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topo, stolen from the internet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Gear</b><br />
We had half a set of wires (up to DMM #4 or 5 I think) and one set of camalots from blue (#0.3) to blue (#3). I don't think we placed the large blue. 15 draws should definitely be enough. Most routes in Montrebei has less fixed gear than this route, so would need a normal mountain rack and possibly a 3-4 pitons for the more heady routes.<br />
<br />
<b>Getting there</b><br />
Montrebei is located north of Lleida, close to Tremp and the well known climbing area Terradets. I've dropped a needle on the parking for Pared de Catalonia on <a href="https://27crags.com/crags/montrebei/map">27crags</a>. More info can be found on <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/39435/fr/montrebei">Camp to Camp</a> (french) or <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=19059">UK Climbing</a> (english).<br />
<br />
<b>Guidebook</b><br />
There's an old guidebook for the area: <i>Montsec Oueste</i> by L.Alfonso, X.Buxó (1998). Luichy is working on a new guidebook and for now, <a href="http://www.lanochedelloro.com/resencata/lleid_montrebei1.html">the best option is to look on his website</a> and to search topos (croquis) on the Spanish blogosphere.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0