Zauberberg is a Piola route on Parois de Gramusset near Annecy in the French alps. Excellent rock, and airy climbing that avoids the ledges. South east facing, so sun in the afternoon. The route tops out at about 2600 masl, so even in August it was better to climb in the sun.
Only five pitches, we'll do that quickly, we said... 🐢🐢😂. After the approach from Col des Annes, which took almost 2 hours, we decided to climb the first pitch of Sens Unik [sic] to warm up. That worked ok, but the penultimate bolt on Sens Unik's first pitch is a retarded place for climbers shorter than 165 cm (too far to the right).
P1 7a. Well tricky.
P2 7a. “Attention chute possible et pas conseillée au niveau du deuxième point” (Warning, fall possible and inadvisable at the second bolt) the description on camptocamp read... I had a hard time finding a good hold to clip the second bolt, and afterwards my head was shot and it took me forever to finish the pitch.
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| Julia seconding P2, which she thought was the easiest pitch of the route. |
Very happy that Julia took over the leading responsibility for the third and forth pitch.
P3 6c+/7a. Thin at the start. Julia cruised this section, but I was at the limit. Then steep athletic climbing.
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| Julia leading... |
P4 6c at least surely? Steeper still!
P5 7a. Oh my! Do not stop to think, just do it.
Overall, I am well proud of having onsighted P2 & P5 and flashed the rest seconding. The route felt a lot harder than it looks on paper.
We rapped the route clipping a few bolts on the steep/traversing parts. There were quick links on all belays and old slings between the bolts. We should have brought an adjustable spanner and a few new quick links as two of them were in a bad state. Particularly the quick link on the second belay.
Gear: 11 draws. It should be OK to haul, if needed. We just clipped a small water bottle to the harness.
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| Homeward bound.... |
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