Alex came visiting from Toulouse, and wanted to do a multi pitch. I asked J for some recommendations in Montserrat as that is fairly close from home (≈40 min). Cavall Bernat and Paret de l'Aeri were mentioned.
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| Cavall Bernat visible from the parking of Eremita de St. Cecillia |
As Alex has climbed about four days this year, we decided on Cavall Bernat. A brief check in Luichy's guidebook and a quick browsing through of some blogpost lead us to decide on La gran il.lusió.
The weather did not exactly cooperate, but we figured that if we climbed with doubles we could always rap off. This came in handy as I started to get reflux near the belay of the third pitch. By the time Alex joined me on the belay I had vomited twice.
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| Me on P2, before projectile vomiting commenced |
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| Alex near the 3rd belay. I tried to vomit towards skiers right. |
When J came back from Madrid I passed on my Novovirus to her. Next weekend we felt better, but J was probably not strong enough for attempt on her project, so I convinced her to join me up La gran il·lusió even though she thinks that bouldering is better for strength devlopment.
The base of the route was still in full sun when we arrived at 12 pm, something I was blissfully unaware of since me and Alex started up in the clouds. We took our time and entered into the shade on pitch 4.
Cavall Bernat forms a needle that tops out farily high in the massive (1111 m) and is infamous for being windy and cold. J had two sweaters and a wind jacket, which felt like total overkill at the base, but great on belay 4.
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| Julia just above the roof of pitch five. The pillar starts to feel like a mini big wall |
Pitch notes:
P1 5b, 40 m. Splendid slab climbing. The FA party tried to find the absolutely easiest way up, so the line of bolt is not straight. At least four shoulder length slings to keep the drag in check.
P2 5b, 40 m. More of same, but slightly straighter.
P3 6b, 45 m. Says 6a+ in the guidebook, but something must have broken. A hard move near the belay. At least five shoulder length slings to lower drag. 15 bolts on the pitch.
P4 6b, 33 m. Great sustained climbing on vertical terrain. Gets close to its neighbouring route Punsola Reniu before moving back left.
P5 7a+ 30 m. A slab up to the steep section, bolted for aid-climbing convenience. The steep section requires some conviction and quick thinking (or margin). After the crux there is a lovely section on great rock.
P6 6c, 20 m. The best pitch. A long sustained section on slightly overhanging rock leads to a comfortable belay before the last, very short pitch.
P7 7a, 15 m. Despite being short, I would not link this with the previous pitch unless I had a lot of margin. Graded 6c+ in the guidebook but felt like 7-something for us at the end of the route. Belay on two rusted bolts on the false summit. Untie and scramble to the top, or keep tied in and do a last, unprotected 3b to the top.
Approach:
Park at the small church of Santa Cecília de Montserrat. From the church walk a few meters towards Monistrol, cross the road and take a foot path up to the path to Monistrol (CR, red and white). Walk from some 45 min on mostly flat terrain, until you get to the run-off right under the east face of Cavall Bernat, signposted "Canal del Cavall Bernat" with warnings in three languages. Hike up to the colouir to the base of the pillar with a move or two of 3a (? I did not need to use my hands when it was dry, so technically 2+?). Scramble up the dihedral with trees and bushes and find a bolt on a comfortable ledge to the right of the dihedral.
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| Screenshot Google Earth with some, hopefully, helpful scribbles by yours truly |
Descent:
Rap near the Virgin Mary down the other side of the pillar, about 20 m down to a ledge. Find a bolted rap station on climbers left. Rap down the corner forming the Normal route. At least 40 m down to down-climbable terrain, but we spied an intermediate anchor, and according to guidebook, it is possible to break the rap in two with 60 m of rope. (We had 120 m of rope, so not tested). Follow a clearly visible path to the top of the Canal and scramble down this. We did one rap with a total of 60 m rope and downclimbed the rest.
Gear:
- At least 60 m rope (for the decent). Doubles allow you to escape down the route, all belays except the last equipped for rapell.
- 15 draws for pitch 3 + something for the belay. If climbing on single/twin at least 5 out the 15 draws should be extendable alpine draws.
- A windbreaker, and maybe a sweater, even in late spring. It gets cold when the wind picks up, which is apperently always does.
Orientation: The base of the route is on an east-facing slab. In the sun until about 3pm in the summer. The steeper top part is east-north-east facing and gets into the shade at around noon or slightly later in the summer.
Guidebooks: I am aware of the following two guidebooks for the north side of the range
- Monserrat, Guia D'Escalades del Vessant Nord (Catalan, 2003)
- Montserrat Vertiente Norte (Spanish, 2007) (This is the one I have)
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| Brutal wind on top. No time for a top selfie. |
